No, yours will be there and you'll wheel it.

Got diff covers on today. My last ones did me well so I went back with SOLID. Hard deal to beat, $130 for both covers, hardware, and a free tube of RTV since I use Lubelockers. I forgot how much these things take, almost a whole gallon in each axle. I love being able to sit under it and work, that's the real reason I did this swap. Kinda surprised how thin the stock 10.5 cover is. The SOLID 60 cover is about 1/2" bigger than stock.

Welded some 1/8" to the inner frame rail, still need to plate the bottom. Added the spacer and its a good tight fit. Obviously the box is tapped, should get some hoses made this week and have everything bolted up. I also installed my MORE box brace I've had for over a year and a half. Something was in the way and I couldn't install it whenever I bought it. I guess I've cut it off or something. Fit great and should help a lot. Paranoid about the steering after my last box broke off... Sorry for the bad pics of it, I was feeling lazy. The drag link clears the hydro mounts by the width of a pube. Tie Rod gusset clears the diff cover by about 1/16-1/8" both are Super close. Since space is so tight I was worried about both but really got lucky/ am good at math. Only thing I'm not crazy about is that the axle side of the cylinder will just have a 3/4" bolt and a cotter pin, there isn't enough room for a nuts when turning unless I made a new tie Rod with a longer piece of tube and sharper bends. Going to make steering stops by tapping the inner C for a 1/2" bolt, but I have right at full throw of the ram. Every link is in the paint booth right now. I'm halfway considering making new lowers that are adjustable on both ends for an eventual farther forward stretch, then I could sell my radius arms all together to pay for them too. Might do that this summer.

Pics:

I love the "No Weldy" written where the steering box bolts in

Would have been a bad day had I welded those up. Lol

I give you props. I would of not been paying much attention and had welded them up even with no weldy written there

I don't know if anyone else has had an issue with Rustoleum paint lately. I've had a few cans that weren't worth a shiny new nickel. I'll go throw them in the woods and put a dollar with them that way when someone finds them they can say they found something.

Primed and painted like I always have for the last 4 years and I'm getting spots in it like there is something preventing it from adhering.

I had bought 5 cans on satin black around 2 months ago and only 2 of which worked worth a damn. 2 would spray out splotchy as ever and I even tried changing the nozzles and nothing, the other bubbled up

Holy hell, I thought I was the only one! The last 4 cans I've had red and black, have done that. I've switched to krylon.

I think I've heard people say the same thing about the Dana 35

I sold mine 60$ i was geeked.

Some moron around here put a dana 35 on craigslist for $400... I thought about replying and asking him where he got his crack from.... I think it's laced with something stronger.

If you want legit paint...go with Valspar Premium Paint + Primer..lowes sells it.
My bumper caps came out perfect even on a windy *** cold day.

Specifically:

So much jealousness

Will, you going to let me drive this thing up shipwreck when you're done?

Got all the steering and stuff installed. Steering is bled and should be good to go as long as there are no leaks.

I started bleeding the brakes, finally got all the air out and the tires would lock up right before the pedal was at the floor. Not confident in that so I opted for the 98 Dodge 2500 MC. PN NM3060 at Autozone, Oreilly's didn't have one close.
Got it installed with new adapters and fittings. Should be a big improvement once I finally get it bled.

Didn't clear the booster...




Started to use a 1/4-28 bolt and round the head off but it was waaaaay too long. I ended up chopping it down to size and threading it in.

Made some limit strap mounts. Frame side is non removable. Welded the bolt to the stiffeners and then chopped up a piece of angle to make it double shear. Axle end is on the LCA bolt. Might drill a new hole in the LCA bracket for some adjust ability. Left some room for a little stretch in the strap, but it should be a good balance between shock travel and not letting the coil fall out. Bumpstops are set on the LCA's to contact the frame. They're just the in stock black prothane bumps from O reilly's with a 3/8 stud on them. I tapped the LCA and threaded them in. They have different tiers for some form of compression, I might shave 1 or 2 off to fine tune the bumpstops.

Welded the cage to the B pillar. Used some 1/8" flat stock and got it burned in nice and hot. Might do the rear side of the tube if I can land it on the pillar anywhere. Moved it up about 2.5" and got it behind the B pillar, much better than I originally had it.


Brakes should be bled tomorrow. Then it might even move this weekend. Was trying to do a shake down run to Morris next weekend but I think my friends planned for the 28th instead...