Lol I'm not shocked about the $10 you gained on scrap metal...
Once I had 4 fridges and 2 washer dryers in the back of my truck and I assumed I was going to get a couple of hundred bucks for them...yeah $12 later didn't even put back the gas to drive to the place....
Next time I just leave them outside and someone will pick them up within the hour...
Which shockingly happens a lot down here in miami for scrap...

Build is coming along nicely...that scrap pce of front bumper could've been good enough for a low rear quarter guard...no?

I did better than that about 2 months ago on an old fridge that I scrapped. It weighed about 400 lbs, but I still got about 20 bucks... payouts are going way down.

Thanks man. As far as that scrap piece, it would take way more fab work than I'm interested in to get it to bend around a quarter. If I was really concerned about it, I have two perfectly good lower quarters in the parts Jeep... I'm probably going to do the quarter panel cut-n-fold on mine eventually anyway.

Keep it up, it's really coming together

Thank ya!

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The other day, I decided to go play around after picking up a prescription from Walgreens... figured what's a few minutes?

...a few minutes later





I was informed by my "rescuers" that if I had been over the to driver's side about 6 inches, it would have taken a very large truck to get me out. I should have known... that spot is always wet... even in the middle of a drought.

In other news... I was attempting to cut some more sheet metal off the parts Jeep and burned up my HF grinder lol... can't get mad about it being as I spent 10 bucks on it a year ago. I did end up purchasing a little bit better one though. B&D 6 amp w/ a 2 year warranty for 30 bucks. The HF one had a 90 day warranty and only had a 4.3 amp motor.

I burned up my hf grinder cutting off my lca brackets haha

haha.... yeah they have a pretty short duty cycle. Definitely don't like heat.

Swapped the center console brackets out of my '92 with the brackets from the '96 parts jeep I have. MUCH tighter now. Can't believe they use shorty Phillips head screws for the brackets in '92.

Also swapped in the e-brake handle from the '96 as well... Somehow during the process, my brake cable on the driver's side SHORTENED. Seriously contemplating the dual e-brake handle mod that Detour on CF did... poor man's locker

AND, a few months back I went sensor-replacement crazy. Unfortunately, I didn't pay attention and ordered the SMP T-Series on some of the sensors. Immediately returned the MAP sensor because it was so faulty that my fuel pump wouldn't even work. Come to find out, I also have a t-series AIT sensor... I swapped the original one back in and the Jeep actually seems to be running a little better. We'll see.

Well Basslicks, had a slow day at work and read the thread in its entirety and I gotta say, you've definitely transformed your jeep, good job!

HA! Yeah, you must've been pretty bored, sir.

Thanks much, it's certainly been a fun project thus far and every bit of it worth it.

More to come...

Well, there's no doubt about it, the rear of my Jeep was definitely saggin'. The Tuff Country leaf packs advertise a 3.5" lift, and they pretty much give that. But there's only 4 leafs total and one of them is a very thick and totally flat overload spring that is about a half an inch thick and completely impedes articulation once you get to it. I mean, don't get me wrong, it does its job, but I'm not looking for HD towing, I'm looking for off-road performance.

So I removed the OL spring a few months back and it improved the articulation drastically... unfortunately it also took away 1/2" out of the rear... and with the springs settling and the weight that I carry around back there on a regular, it was sagging worse.



So it finally got to the point I was fed up with it. I didn't want it to look like a jeep with bro-squat anymore. I've had a set of "drop/lift" shackles waiting to go in for years, but the welded frame nut for the passenger side shackle bolt broke loose about the time I got the shackles.. so all it does is spin. I use a couple other failed methods to try and get it out because I was too chicken to cut it... but none of it worked. So, it was time to do what I should have done all along.

You might be thinking "well why don't ya just use a socket on the nut?"

Here's why;



Don't worry... all those cuts were from failed attempts at getting to this stupid nut and will be welded back up.

So anyway, I've been thinking about making this a write-up, so if it helps you out a lot, let me know and I might make one.

So I got my tools out





First thing you have to look for is the weld bead on the OEM shackle eye



Cut it with the grinder and pry it apart.



Then move it out of the way:



I cut the metal sleeve off the bushing too, but I realized after the fact that it wasn't necessary and all it did was throw molten rubber all over my arm and leg and get it all over my grinding wheel. So unless your inner sleeve is rusted to the bolt, don't bother cutting the bushing... it's not necesarry.

So the next step is to cut the bolt at the "cup". You can cut it at the bolt head, but it's going to be really hard to get the bolt out after that due to how long it is



Here's your discards



If you're like me, you had an extra shackle bolt or two layin' around. You can use these, no problem but they're the same length as the other one so you'll have to cut it down.



3 3/4" will do nicely



New bolt and shackle are in and all tightened up





MUCH better...

I got done with the shackle in a really good amount of time so I went ahead and tackled the pressed in studs for the discos.



Pulley puller, heat gun, hammer, and wedge later...



Stupid thing...



Has splines AND a Torx head. How retarded.



Studs out, bullets and pin retainers in



FIN.

looking good man. you going to upgrade your account again or no lol?

uh oh, am I getting close to expiration?

it doesn't say CF supporter under your username anymore...

HA! Sure 'nuff... I'll have to fix that.