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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #16  
96 XJ Sport's Avatar
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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FYI, if you order the d-rings from hicountryoffroad, their default color is blue in spite of the picture of silver d-rings on their site. Didn't want blue on a green rig, but upon request they put a nice coat of black paint on them...definitely better paint than the rattle can I would have used.
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:03 PM
  #17  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Also, got my Dynomax cat back out of the box...


Started taking the old rusty system off, but my little helper had had enough


Plus, the sound of the angle grinder got her really upset! Have to cut that rusty junk off later.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:01 AM
  #18  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I ended up getting the cat back put on the day after the first attempt. Nothing too special, but I like it. Just slightly louder than stock. Not too crazy about that clamp showing on the tailpipe, so I may get it welded to the hanger at some point.


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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #19  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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And made a JY run last weekend and scored factory skids for the TC and gas tank from a '90...WOOHOO!!!

Had to break a sweat ripping the TC skid off because the darn weld nuts broke loose on both ends of the skid. Anybody know what kind of bolts I should use to attach it to the crossmember and frame rail? Some kind of self-tapping I assume, but what exactly?
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 11:20 PM
  #20  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Alright, this build is about to get moving I hope. The lift kit is on its way! Ended up working with Dirk at dpg-offroad, great guy BTW. I went with a RE 3.5 superflex, front/rear brakelines, .75" front spacer, JKS adj track bar, RE hack n tap SYE, dpg-offroad custom driveshaft and OME shocks. Can't wait to start gettin' my hands dirty...never taken on a project like this before and I'm planning on enjoying it. Remind me of that please after I break the first couple of bolts

Also, I was planning on running the stock wheels for awhile and some new 31s, but then of course I found a deal on 5 of my FAVORITE OEM Jeep wheels on CL and snapped them up. Can't wait to see them mounted with their new shoes.

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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:46 PM
  #21  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Well, I'm off work this week and have finally gotten this lift started. I just reminded myself via my last post to enjoy this project, ha ha...and yes, I did break some bolts today

So far, I have the front springs and control arms in and still need to put the new track bar on and replace the front brake lines. Having issues getting the brake lines off and posted a thread in the tech section. Let me know if you have any advice. Edit: here's how this was resolved https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/brake-line-fittings-flared-compression-15751/

The rear is mostly torn down with one leaf completely out and the other almost, but good news is none of those nuts/bolts broke. But, the infamous upper rear shock mount bolts have snapped, so I'm working on drilling and punching out the weld nuts and replacing with new.

Here's the obligatory reverse rake shot just for fun...

Last edited by 96 XJ Sport; May 18, 2009 at 10:42 PM.
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Old May 1, 2009 | 09:34 PM
  #22  
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From: Holts Summit Missouri
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Looking good man! Im likin the color on that thing....
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Old May 2, 2009 | 12:45 PM
  #23  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Thanks. Funny how us green Jeeps stick together, ha ha. I'm obviously taking my time on this build, but I just might have it back on all fours tomorrow.
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Old May 3, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #24  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Alright, it's standing on it's own now, but without shocks or SYE installed. Man, whoever said these RE 3.5" springs sit tall wasn't lying. It measures 22.5" from the center of the wheel to fender flare in the front, so that's 5" as I understand. And the rear measures 22" drivers and 22.75" passengers, so 5" and 5.75". I don't know why the passengers' side would sit taller other than there's a slope in my garage floor toward the drain. Let me know if anyone has any ideas. Here it is lookin sweet on some meaty 28s, LOL!

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Old May 18, 2009 | 10:54 PM
  #25  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Shocks are in and I had to end up cutting my floor to punch out the weld nuts on the rear shock bolts. I just couldn't get it to work any other way. Oh well. I need to get some pics of that because I haven't patched the holes yet.

Here's a thread over in Tech where I'm working through much vibration. I think I have the front solved, now just need to install the rear DS and SYE. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/lift-finally-installed-major-vibes-16276/

Here's a pic of the result...the back really sits a little higher than the front, but in this pic it is loaded down with 5 wheels/tires in the back and a full tank of gas. The tires are General Grabber AT2 in 31x10.50x15". I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Tell me what you think about what to do next.
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Old May 19, 2009 | 09:08 AM
  #26  
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
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Good job man! I like to see the transformation of these things. What is the name of those wheels? Moabs ?
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Old May 19, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #27  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Thanks! I know, it seems like a totally different vehicle now. I love to watch them change, too. The wheels are called Ravines and this particular set came off of a 2004 Wrangler Sahara.

Call me crazy, but I'm even kinda diggin the red stripe a little bit. I had planned to take it off, but now I don't know.
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Old May 19, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #28  
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From: Tenn. and Mich.
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
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It look's fantastic! I like the red stripe, it sets it off.
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Old May 24, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #29  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L
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SYE and DS are in now. It more of a pain than it should have been because I'm a DA and broke the tap off in the tailshaft. My neighbor welded a bolt to the tap and tried to turn it out, but it just broke the tap off deeper in the hole. Here are some pics of the successful parts of the install, lol, followed by the ultimate result of him just welding the flange to the tailshaft. He's a very experienced welder, so I trust it.

I cut the tailshaft with it spinning in reverse (in 2WD of course and the front wheels chocked). I highly recommend that method for a smooth and square cut.


Slid the flange on temporarily to more easily find the center of the shaft to punch it.


This is the final drill with the 21/64" bit included with the RE kit, but I pre-drilled with a 5/64" first and then a 3/16"


Sorry, no pic of the broken tap. Let's just say that I learned how to tap and will do it correctly the next time So we had to go to plan C, welding.
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Old May 24, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #30  
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From: Bardstown, KY
Year: 1996
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Then on to the DS. Simple, just bolt it up and grease the u-joint and slip joint good.

Shaft was custom made by dpgoffroad in his shop.


Didn't want to paint all up in those joints, but maybe I should have.




Driveline angle looks good to me, ever so slightly negative, maybe 1 to 2 degrees . I don't have any way to measure it. Running 4 degree steel shims, too, and vibes don't seem to be a problem now.
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