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Scandinavian blacked out 2 door.

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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 01:21 AM
  #61  
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From: Norway
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
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Yup, I've checked the vacuum lines and found nothing. Still suspect there might be a leak somewhere so I'm gonna replace them with 3/8" copper brakelines. Manifold bolts and grounds are also on my list of todos. Can't really see how any of that would cause it to stop like it did though..?

Having a renix with no feedback system sucks times like this...
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:55 AM
  #62  
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From: Miami, fl
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Boxermann
Yup, I've checked the vacuum lines and found nothing. Still suspect there might be a leak somewhere so I'm gonna replace them with 3/8" copper brakelines. Manifold bolts and grounds are also on my list of todos. Can't really see how any of that would cause it to stop like it did though..?

Having a renix with no feedback system sucks times like this...
The renix systems have always been known to have a weak grounding system...
Just a little looseness in any ground can cause the truck to shut off....
My 88 comanche has done this countless times and when I go to recheck my grounds and it doesn't happen again until it loosens up again...
Why is does that? Idk? It could be from the vibration of the tires, going offroad, or just forgetting to tighten one up....
As far as your high idle it may be you tps that needs to be readjusted and if that doesn't work buy a new one and adjust to cruisers specs....
Or you can check your cps to see if that is also going out on you....
It's pretty much a process of elimination....
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 06:18 PM
  #63  
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Thanks whitecomanche. I managed to get a couple of hours to work on the jeep today, so I decided to try to refresh the ground. Spent almost two hours trying to remove the bolt on the block and the one on the head before giving up on both of them. Ran an extra cable from the battery to the radiator and one from the firewall to the intake manifold instead. Maybe not an optimal solution since intake manifold has a gasket, but it'll do. Didn't notice much difference though. It still idles high. Need to find my multimeter, or buy a new one, and do some testing.

Also installed the 1-2" RC shackles at 1" replacing the 1.75" Teraflex ones I had, so now it's a little closer to level. Still almost 2" higher in the rear though, so I'm gonna shave half an inch from the 2" spacers I have and install them.

Last edited by Boxermann; Nov 24, 2014 at 12:29 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 05:08 PM
  #64  
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I'm almost certain that the TPS is to blame for my high/ rough idle and intermittent starting problems. Guess I must have messed up the adjustment when I cleaned the TB. Need to buy a new torx bit before I can readjust it.

Got new floor liners today... Me like.
Attached Thumbnails Scandinavian blacked out 2 door.-image-328771960.jpg  

Last edited by Boxermann; Nov 28, 2014 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 09:20 PM
  #65  
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From: St. Louis
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter I6 PowerTech
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Those damn TPS's... I had to change mine out recently, so I feel ya. I thought my transmission was going out, but it was just the TPS thankfully. Those floor mats look pretty nice too! Keep up the good work!
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Old Nov 28, 2014 | 05:03 PM
  #66  
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Thanks Green!

I finally got my TPS adjusted properly, and it seems to have fixed my idle.

Measured output AC voltage from the CPS though, and it wasn't higher than .2. Should be .5. So that's most likely the cause of my intermittent no start issue. I have a replacement sensor, so now I only need some spare time to replace it...

Last edited by Boxermann; Nov 28, 2014 at 05:08 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #67  
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I spoke too soon... Idle is still high when the engine is warm. Runs great otherwise. I'm still waiting for the IAC and TPS I ordered and hopefully replacing those will fix it.

Replaced my CPS today, and that was not a moment too soon. Ground cable was almost completely broken off at the sensor.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 02:56 AM
  #68  
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 6 Cyl
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I keep going back and forth about getting those same mats.....


....of course, now we just got 5 inches of snow in the past week.



LOL!


Keep up the good work!
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #69  
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Thanks TMC! I say get the mats. They're awesome.

I solved my high idle issue today!

I finally got the new IAC and TPS I ordered a long time ago, and replaced them right away hoping one of them was the culprit. No difference what so ever after the swap though. Seems my old ones where working just fine.

Then with the engine running and the air filter removed I put a vinyl gloved finger at the edge of the TB butterfly valve and at once the idle went down to <1000. Started looking for reasons why it wasn't closing properly and found that PO had put a nut on where the cable stop rests... Removed it and now it idles perfect!

I guess the idle went very low because of all the gunk buildup in the TB and instead of cleaning it he put the nut there to keep the idle up...


Last edited by Boxermann; Jan 5, 2015 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 06:53 AM
  #70  
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Mounted a pair of cheap 36W LED lights.

Also removed the sun visor for now as I got tired of the noise it makes. I need to add some reinforcement inside it before I put it back on. If I put it back on.. Kinda like the look without it too...




Last edited by Boxermann; Jan 12, 2015 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #71  
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Also put a new end piece on the exhaust pipe. I think I'm gonna cut it at an angle to prevent too much rain from going in. Or maybe add a tip of some kind.

The hose clamp for hanger is a temporary solution until I figure out something better... It does the job though.






Before:


Last edited by Boxermann; Jan 7, 2015 at 07:23 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #72  
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Got some stuff done the last couple of days:
  • installed the 2" coil spacers. Lift is now 5.5" in front and about 5.75" rear.
  • installed longer LCAs. I regret that I didn't spend the extra money on some adjustable ones instead of the non-adjustable ones from RC.
  • installed RE adjustable trackbar. It went more or less smooth until I got to adjusting toe and had the bright idea to use a hammer on the tie rod end to loosen it from the draglink, and thus wrecking the thread.. Going out to buy a thread chaser tomorrow so I can get the castle nut back on.
  • checked axles for fluid and found them both more or less empty (!). Tightened the bolts and filled 1.6-1.7 quart in the rear (D35), and half a quart in the front.
  • oil change.

Last edited by Boxermann; Jan 14, 2015 at 02:54 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 05:42 PM
  #73  
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Year: 1987
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This thing is still sexy. Love the look brother
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 01:14 AM
  #74  
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From: Mountain Town, USA
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 6 Cyl
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Man this thing is looking awesome! That wrinkle paint turned out great!

How's the ride on the R.E. springs? Happy you went with them?



Keep up the good work!
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 02:27 AM
  #75  
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Thanks guys!

The RE springs are great, but with a heavy bumper and winch they didn't give more than slightly below 4" of lift.

Right now my setup is like this:
Front: 4.5" RE springs + 2" coil spacers = 5.5" lift.
Rear: 3.5" RE leaf springs + 1.5" RC shackles = 5.75" lift.

2+2 ≠ 4...
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