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Old 03-01-2018, 12:29 PM
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Subbed!
I picked up a 95 2dr last week. Previously had a '99 2dr. I plan on doing a similar- ish build.
Old 03-03-2018, 11:00 AM
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Word

I'm wondering about a track bar. Not that mine is necessarily worn out, but knowing it's a pain point for XJs, it might be smart to just upgrade it while I have the suspension torn apart. Normally I would advocate an IRO double shear track bar, but I think the 3/4" drop would be too much for only 2" OME coils. Am I wrong?

I'm pretty sure I'm not, so what track bar should I go with? I'd like to go adjustable.
Old 03-03-2018, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Battle
Word

I'm wondering about a track bar. Not that mine is necessarily worn out, but knowing it's a pain point for XJs, it might be smart to just upgrade it while I have the suspension torn apart. Normally I would advocate an IRO double shear track bar, but I think the 3/4" drop would be too much for only 2" OME coils. Am I wrong?

I'm pretty sure I'm not, so what track bar should I go with? I'd like to go adjustable.
I'm running a IRO non double shear and that's because it came with my long arm kit. If I had a choice it would have been Rubicon Express.
Old 03-11-2018, 08:10 AM
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Good intel. I guess the follow up question is, is there a way to not have a heim joint on the body side without having to drop the mounting point? Probably not without serious modification. I'll probably just stick with an adjustable track bar like IRO or RE.

Experienced death wobble twice yesterday. Both times I was on the moon's freeway (590 in Rochester) so I was hitting potholes going about 65-70. I haven't looked at the front end closely, but given the mileage (139k) and propensity for death wobble to be caused by unbalanced tires, I would bet money that's what is causing this. Good ole' steel wheels and cheap tires...

So, I decided to ignore all of this and buy engine parts! ATP header, 62mm throttle body, and Accel tune up (cap, rotor, wires and Cooper plugs) are ordered. Trying to buy some 703 injectors. Figured just do all that, change the oil, and drop in a K&N. Then the engine will be good to go.
Old 05-05-2018, 06:03 AM
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Warm weather finally decided to show up in Rochester. Got back from vacation last week and finally have the ambition to do stuff. Which is good because the Jeep needs stuff. It has intermittent death wobble - it's not like other cases of DW where it just happens at a predetermined speed, but it will happen at highway speeds around 65-70ish and when I hit potholes.

I bought the Jeep in October. I have never changed the oil and it has a FRAM filter on it...

The handbrake broke a few weeks ago. I pulled on it and snap - no more tension. The cable where the adujuster is looks fine, so I think it broke at the handle (hopefully).

The fuel gauge continues to lie to me.

So, RJ is now parked in the garage. I put the summer tires back on my Subaru and changed the oil (second time I've changed its oil since buying the Jeep), then pulled the GF's BMW out of the garage. She's continuing to drive my Subaru though, so I'm stuck with her E90. It's not a stick, so there's no incentive for me driving it versus the Subaru, which I prefer (it's a flat six, so it actually has more power than the 328i BMW). Either way, I've got a second car again - time to wrench!

I have a pile of engine parts ready to go in for a tune up. I also have a Moog ZJ tierod in the mail, and an Old Man Emu steering stabilizer (I'm not using beefy enough steering parts to justify running no stabilizer). I'm going to inspect the track bar and ball joints and hope that at 140k miles, the DW is a cause of unbalanced tires - which I also want to replace.

Ideally, I'd like to find a set of low mileage 235/75/15s with Grizzly or Ravine wheels, but that's hard to come by. In a weird twist of fate, there are two sets of these very wheels on Craigslist right now with 30/9.5s - the size I'd ultimately like to run but would prefer 2" of lift to do so. I might just buy them and put them on - I know they'll rub, but hopefully not too much. My suspension really isn't that worn out.

I'm trying to put together a package for Memorial Day so I can go on a road trip. I took the Subaru camping/overlanding out to some national forests in Ohio a month ago and it was awesome, but there were some roads I came across that I wish I had a proper 4x4 to go down.
Old 05-13-2018, 08:01 PM
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Did some things. Fixed the handbrake first. The metal bracket that swivels and holds in the end of the parking brake cable gave way and let the cable slip loose. I took the entire hand brake assembly out and did my best to bend the bracket with a torch and vice grips to I could get the cable reconnected without it easily slipping out. It works now!

Last edited by Battle; 05-13-2018 at 08:12 PM.
Old 05-13-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Battle
Did some things. Fixed the handbrake first. The metal bracket that swivels and holds in the end of the parking brake cable gave way and let the cable slip loose. I took the entire hand brake assembly out and did my best to bend the bracket with a torch and vice grips to I could get the cable reconnected without it easily slipping out. It works now!
Mine did this
Had to hammer it down with a punch and got it to work...
At first I thought it was the cable then realized it was the bracket that bent
Old 05-14-2018, 05:56 AM
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That's so weird. Good to know we used similar techniques haha!

Here's what it looked like. I couldn't get my phone to upload this last night.



While I had the center console out for the parking brake, I installed a JCR metal bracket to replace the broken plastic OEM one. Much better. I do need a new shift **** though. I couldn't get that off without damaging the soft plastic.

I also changed the oil and installed Accel tune-up stuff: plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Took the truck out of the garage for a bit and it seems to run sharper. So glad I no longer have a Fram filter on it too - those things are garbage. Not only did I crush in the filter housing with my wrench (the thing was basically welded on), the filter o-ring stuck to the adapter.

I inspected the front end a bit for any looseness. Everything looks fine, but both front tires have visible ripples and bumps on the sidewalls.
Old 05-27-2018, 04:30 AM
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Spent yesterday and last Sunday working the Jeep. After noticing the bubbles on my tires, I figured it would be best to buy a decent set of used, stock size tires to hold me over until I get my "lift" installed. Found a set of 225/75R15 Kelly Safari ATRs on what are likely cheap Summit Racing steel wheels. The tires are pretty good shape and the tread patter/design is fairly squared off.



The wheels were pretty ugly. A bit rusted but nothing major. I didn't want to spend too much time to make these shine as I figure I'll only have them for a couple of months at the most. So, I got a rust remover wheel drill bit, cleaned away all the flakes and then blasted them with some 2-in-1 primer/ Rustoleum paint






Looks okay from 50 feet away - good enough! I'm kinda of glad I went with the 225s vs 30s. There's no much wheel gap even with these baby tires.

Also picked up a 3M adhesive remover wheel and removed the previous owner's sticker finally.

The tires ride pretty good. The truck does feel more stable at highway speeds - no death wobble yet... (knock on wood). They're a little grippier too. They'll do for now.

Oh yeah, I got a new shift ****. Just a crown replacement - it seems like it might be the design for the first generation XJ. I dig it! But I did have to install it with a washer in order for it to be aligned correctly.





Yesterday, I installed some Custom4x4 Fabrication tow hooks. They're really nice - solid hardware, good welds, and beefy steel. I like the additional brackets and unibody tie-in. I would think they could hold up from a tug.




Obligatory "got your nose" pics.





The angle brackets are a nice touch





Trimed the end caps with the handy-dandy angle grinder and bam - done. Install was easy. I never understood the reasoning behind the rivets that hold the end caps to the front valance though - they seem needless over engineering.

But, now I have front and rear recovery points - the most important part of a stock 4x4 in my opinion.



Next is finish the CB install and then hit the road. I took a couple of days off and want to go camping. Maybe try to hit some class 4 roads in Vermont.

Last edited by Battle; 05-27-2018 at 04:32 AM.
Old 05-31-2018, 12:31 PM
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Subbed. Lookin' good!
Old 06-01-2018, 04:48 AM
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Thanks!

Hit up Vermont. Best. New England. State. Ever. I'd totally live there versus New York.

Trip was really cool. I stuck to highways and byways to get there and the Jeep did great on the b-roads. Steering is pretty vague, but what stock Cherokee isn't. These Kelly tires do pretty decent on pavement.

I drove on two class 4 roads - one pretty decent one too that cut straight through a state forest. It pushed the limits of my stock rig on 27s with street pressure (30 psi) - I bottomed out pretty hard multiple times, dragged the axles, and almost got stuck twice. Rocky and muddy and I left foot braked a lot to get through it. Wheeling a stock rig on little tires is a really good way to tighten the nut behind the wheel and take a lesson in driving to not get stuck.

My leafs are pretty worn out now. They're inverted and need to go.


Stock "flex"






Old 06-01-2018, 08:35 AM
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Very cool. I gotta get this hulk back together so I can get it dirty.
Old 06-02-2018, 10:42 AM
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Looking good bud
I had that shifter at one point, only lasted me about a week then ended up pulling from what it is attached with and it would twist 360 degrees around...(forgot what it’s called now)
Went through a couple a shifters until I found one that doesn’t move and has taken my abuse with it...it’s the rampage shifters it’s chrome and it will be off compared to the interior but an awesome shifter compared to ones available in stock form
Old 06-02-2018, 06:34 PM
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Is it a full shifter, or a ****? Got any pics?

I had a Hurst short-throw shifter on my last rig and miss that. $250 is a bit much though.
Old 06-02-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Battle
Is it a full shifter, or a ****? Got any pics?

I had a Hurst short-throw shifter on my last rig and miss that. $250 is a bit much though.
Shift **** lol my bad
But I do have the B&m shifter on the nv3550 that’s in it now and it’s AMAZING!


Project Snowpocalypse-x4gfyfj.jpg

One thing to mention is that when it’s cold you feel it on the shifter or when the sun hits it will be really hot....
Added a better pic

Project Snowpocalypse-p2pr9ga.jpg

Last edited by 88whitecomanche; 06-04-2018 at 04:42 PM. Reason: Added a pic


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