Looks like they gave you u-bolts to a d35.

 

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I did specify during the ordering process that I had the Chrysler 8.25 axle, which I believe has a 3'' axle tube diameter.

I'm thinking they just forgot to send me the other set of u-bolts b/c I noticed in the instruction sheet it mentions how "both are supplied".

That reminds me, I'm gonna contact them now.

 

Yup, 8.25= 3" tubes and d35= 2.75" tubes.

 

Yep I ended up going to autozone for my U bolts. I ordered the wrong ones they measured 2.75" inside. The C8.25 tubes are in fact 3"

 

Called up RC to ask about the u-bolts. Turns out I was supposed to receive 2 sets, they're being shipped out TODAY.

I've been really impressed with their customer service and ship times thus far.

 

yup they goofed, but they have great customer care for sure!

 

u're build thread is cool to follow.

 

You gonna do anything to your proportioning valve to compensate for those rear discs?


I did a disc swap off a Grand Cherokee and thought it sucked until I put a Grand Cherokee proportioning valve in, now the brakes are crazy good.

 

Hopefully there will be lots more to come.

 

Rear shocks were pretty striaghtforward since I already had a solution for the snapped mounting bolts in place, they were a simple bolt in. The lock washers actually worked quite well and I didn't even need to squeeze a wrench into the access port to hold the bolt while I tightened the nut.

Top mounting:


Bottom mounting. It was a tight fit. I actually used a little lithium grease to get the bushing to slide over the mounting pin.


Rear suspension done:



Basically, the "lift" is complete as far as suspension components are concerned. I still have a couple odds and ends to finish up and then I'll be ready for alignment.

Odds and ends:
1. Make the connection between the new rear ss brake line and the hard line on the unibody
2. Possibly retap the passenger rear leafspring front mounting bolt, it's not biting and won't tighten up. It's the same bolt location as the one I had to cut out.
3. Tighten down/re-torque the rear suspension
4. Bleed the brakes at all 4 corners
5. Put tires on
6. Get alignment
7. Assess the front driver brake line connection for possible leak, saw a few drops of fluid near that connection.
8. Install new u-bolts once they arrive (currently re-using old bolts)

Crap, just remembered I have yet to install the transfer case drop kit. So add that to the odds and ends list as well.

 

Nice

 

looks good bro

 

can't wait to see the finished pics going to do the same lift soon.

 

Thanks guys, it's been a long journey with this lift, but I'm nearing the home stretch. Been working on the "odds and ends" to finishing it up...

I have not researched the rear disc conversion process much, but I will definitely keep this in mind. It'll be a while before I start the brake conversion as I want to finish up the lift first. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Well, this afternoon I was working on some of the odds and ends that need attention before finishing up this lift.

I was able to get the bolt for the passenger leafspring, front spring-eye to get a bite after retapping the hole in the unibody. I must've screwed up the threads with the impact gun during removal of the stock leafspring/bolt, which ended up getting cut out anyway. But it's good now.

So, I decided to install the transfer case drop kit. I made a rookie mistake though... I started on the passenger side, removed the front nut off the crossmember with no problem and just assumed that the rear bolt would come out just as easily so I just wailed away on it. Well, I should've taken my time cuz I snapped the head of the bolt right off. The remaining portion of the broken bolt is flush with the frame so now I'm trying to decide the best route for a solution.

As usual, here are some pictures so you can SEE my pain and not just read about it:

Jack set up and support/back up block


You can see the stud on the right, the nut came off so smoothly.


Snapped bolt head and nut from the stud


Here's a view from looking directly up at the crossmember, you can see the snapped bolt in the frame rail:


It's my understanding that the bolt is fastened to the frame rail/unibody with a welded nut. Is that correct?

If that's the case, I guess that means that punching it out (like the solution for the rear shock mounts) is not gonna work unless I want to fish new hardware.

I may try drilling and retapping the nut, if that doesn't work, then I'll have to punch it. I REALLY don't want to cut holes in the frame b/c, well, b/c I don't have anything to cut it with. Guess I could always go visit Harbor Freight.

Any suggestions?