interesting, ive never heard of it being shotr with the hub spacer

 

Could you take .030 off of the caliper bracket itself?
Just went through the whole build. Very nice!

 

Yeah, me either. Weird. But, that is how things tend to be for me.. I always have the bizarre crap no one has ever heard of.

 

Thanks.

You know, I guess I never thought about doing that. I will take a look at that tonight, and see if that would work. Don't see why it shouldn't.

 

.030 isn't much and the caliper mounts can easily be removed and clamped in a mill for a quick clean.

Im loving my wj swap.

 

ive got almost all i need for the swap, just need to figure out exactly what im doing for steering

i want to get the stock WJ linkage cut down and re-tapped since i got it from the JY for 15$ with good ends but idk how doable that is and if it would be cost effective enough to justify not buying the JKS tie rod and drag link.

i also still need to figure out how to get my flipserts welded in

*sorry didnt mean to ramble on your thread like that. lol*

 

Yeah, it should be pretty easy to take that much off. I will mock it up with everything tightened up tonight, and make some more accurate measurements. It seems like one side needed less correction.

 

I looked at just grabbing JY stuff when I got my knuckles, but what there was, was pretty skanky. I got new Raybestos tie rod and drag link tubes from Rockauto for like $15 each. The tie rod is beefy enough for my liking, about 1.5" x .25" wall.

Unless you know someone with the correct taps, since they are a very uncommon size, you may be better off just spending the cash on the JKS or whoever's tie rod setup.

For me, I just took the new ones I bought, and cut them down. They both had to have about 6" cut out of the center. Then I drilled about three 7/16" through holes in them for rosette welds. I turned down a piece of bar stock to fit just inside the tube, leaving a .25" gap in the middle, and then welded it all back together. Unfortunately, since they are a metric size tube, the ID is not a "standard" fractional size, so you have to be able to lathe down a rod, or sleeve tube to do it that way.

The only "downside" to this setup, is you have to use the stock-style pinch clamps to lock in the adjustment, which is probably less secure than the jam nut style (and doesn't look nearly as cool) . Then again, how many millions of cars are on the road with that setup?

My biggest concern is the track bar. I have the fairly beefy RE one which came off of it, which almost certainly needs to be shortened as well. The issue is it is the drop style, so that makes it a bit more difficult to verify that my angles are right, for the track bar to drag link relationship. I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter what the shape of the track bar actually is, as long as the "virtual" position of it (eye to eye of the mounting points) is parallel to the drag link position. I will probably just try to mock it up with a piece of PVC or something, then tweak the track bar I have, to fit.

 

as far as the trac bar goes im gonna re-use my IRO double sheer unit as it mounts normaly and get a flat pitman arm from an it pushed the drag link up a another 4-5" and makes it very close to parallel with the track bar, and no welding of a bracket and making a track bar

 

got the idea from this pic i found a while back, there might be minimal bump steer but i doubt it will be very noticeable

 

Sounds like it should work ok. I did get my drag link nearly finished up tonight. Still need to find a pickle fork or rod end puller so I can get the old drag link TRE pulled off the pitman. Once thats done I will look at the track bar.

 

Looked at this tonight, should work fine. It may be a bit tricky trying to get them held square and securely in the mill, but doable.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Well... the offset is a good bit more than I thought.

Looks to be about .1, maybe a bit more. With everything tightened up, the rotor is pressing into the caliper bracket on the inboard side enough to flatten out the pad retaining clips, and there is about a .1 gap between the rotor face, and the outboard pad retaining clip.

So, looks like I would have to take at least .050 off of the caliper bracket. That might be ok, but is enough to make me nervous.

I think I'm back to trying to shim the rotor out. Not sure yet if the extra amount helps or hurts me yet. I think it helps me, if I can use what I am thinking of for shims... the spacers between the platters of a 2.5" hard drive. They are about .040 -.060, and are generally within +/- .0002" runout. Just need to verify the diameters. I have a ton of old drives laying around that I can tear apart and find out.

If not I will try to find something else, but with the added thickness to work with, I could probably even waterjet some out of sheet steel, which would match the full size and bolt pattern of the hub face.

Just when you thought it would be easy...

 

Well, finally sat down and actually measured it out. Even worse than I thought. The outboard gap is about .198", and the inboard is about .032".

So, something needs to move .083". I am not excited about taking that much off of the caliper bracket. So, I will shim the rotor instead. Not sure how I wound up with this screwed up like that, but it can be fixed.

I will have to check the material stock I have, but hopefully I have some steel or aluminum about .080".

Always the little stuff that gets you.

 

I used the iro rotors, 2000 hubs, .25 hub spacer.
No spacer for the caliper and everything lined up just right.