Well, the jeep decided that i need to step up the next phase by spinning a rod bearing a month or so ago.

So, I've been pondering this HEAVILY, and keep coming back to the same thing, which I think suits me best for how i use this truck.

For now, I'm just going to throw bearings in the 4.0, so i can run it. Then I'm going to start planning/acquiring stuff to swap in a 2014+ GM LTG2.0L turbo straight 4, and 6l50 auto.

Before anyone says I'm nuts, think about it. All aluminum, direct injected, variable valve timing, half the displacement, yet makes as much power as the typical Jeep stroker, even in stock form (272hp/295ft lb) with a very flat torque curve (90% of peak torque from 1700rpm).

It weighs half as much as a 4L, doesn't cause any significant packaging problems like a v8 or many other swaps, and coupled with the 6 speed, should give high 20's mpg or better. Plus the trans gives a much lower first gear and taller OD(4.06/.67).

Maybe I'm crazy, but that's where I'm going.

 

You thinking crate motor? Or a donor? Will it need a transmission adapter? I really like your idea!

 

Nice work.

 

Donor. I have found several complete engine/trans/harness/ecm setups on ebay from 2014-2015 Caddy ATS' s with less than 5k on them for $3-4 grand. That's the other attractive thing about this, is that the cost is comparable to a good stroker or LS swap. If I run into technical issues, GM does offer this motor as a crate engine, and has a standalone Ecm available.

The one thing I do need to do a little more research on, is figure out what the output shafts and such on that tranny are and figure out how and if I can adapt what transfer case to it. They do make the ATS in an all wheel drive version, so there are some that are set up for a transfer case. They also use the 6L50 in the 2016 Colorado's, so they are used in a 4x4 application somewhere.

In the meantime, I may have run into a little bit of good luck, I think I actually have a loose or broken flex plate, not rod bearings out. Still a pain in that I have to pull into the motor or tranny to fix it, but is still probably cheaper, in the short term and gives me a little more time to plan and troubleshoot the swap.

Crossing my fingers at this point that's what it is, I'm going to the take a look at it in the morning.

 

Been a while since I have updated, mostly due to zero progress. I did look a little closer at the motor, and found the real problem. Broken piston skirt on #5.

At this point, I am probably just going to do a stroker build. I would LOVE to do the GM LTG swap, but time and $ are not on my side. Just spent over $5k putting a motor in my Subaru, and that has pushed everything out of whack.

So, will start pulling the motor in the next couple weeks.

Yay.

 

Totally blown away by your fabrication skill and attention to detail. Read the build start to finish, seriously impressive work.

Bummer about the engine though. Regarding a different motor, I have always been really intrigued the COTY built VW TDI swaps. If I had the extra coin that's where I'd be looking.

 

I would also vote for a TDI.
I love my TDI XJ.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/20...blacky-205238/

 

i eventually want to build a tdi cherokee since i do a lot of commuting, my current xj however will be getting a 5.3/4l60e as soon as i pick the the drivetrain up from the yard.

 

:drool:

 

I am very interested on how you go about re working your engine. I am considering a crate motor in the near future (Hopefully Next Winter).

 

Well, due mostly to time constraints, at the moment I am about 96% sure it will be a mild stroker. I can always pull and sell it later if I decide I'm not happy with how it works for me. But, I need to have this thing back on the road in about 3-4 weeks, and I haven't even started pulling the motor yet.

 

Well, gotta start somewhere.




I don't have many pics yet beyond this, but I got it all separated, the motor mostly torn down, and the T-Case torn apart and rebuilt. Need to finish pulling the bottom end apart this eve, then the block goes off to get hot tanked and inspected for any weirdness.

Ordering a pile o' parts from Russ Pottenger to put it back together (4.6 stroker, all forged bottom end, and a Russ-ported Clearwater head) probably tomorrow. Then the block and rotating components go to the machine shop for that chunk, then it will go back together.

In the meantime, I need to cleanup and paint the engine bay, rework some wiring, and fix the winch.

 

So, I spent most of the last couple days cleaning up components and the engine compartment, and painting. Dropped the block at the machine shop yesterday, and ordered a big pile of stuff this morning.

Going to rework some wiring, then maybe go ahead and stick the trans and T case back in, but will prob wait until the motor is done, then link them all up and stick them in together.







At least the engine compartment will finally match, now that the rest of the paint is faded so much that it doesn't.

 

 

Well, it has been a while since I updated, because there haven't been any.

I started on the stroker build about a year ago. I got all the parts ordered for a 4.6 stroker .020 over), with a new ported Clearwater head, forged rods, crank, billet pistons, etc.

Once that was all in, I sent the block off to the mach shop for a check over, boring, and decking. I got that back, and started putting it together in late April. That's where things started going wrong.

The initial assy of the bottom end seemed to go ok. But, when measuring the piston compression heights, things were all out of whack, and not at all consistent. I spoke with Russ (many, many times) and we determined that my brand new forged rods were wayyy out of spec, and all different lengths. So, after some discussion, he suggested I wait a few weeks until he could get some new design forgings in that he was waiting to be delivered from Scat.

So, we wait. In the meantime I have found that the brand new crank is also out of spec, and needs to be re-ground. They want to have the new rods to be sure everything matches up before proceeding.

So, mid December comes around, and we finally get the new rods. I take them and the crank in. Guy calls me a while later and says, "these rods are wrong". WTF!!! I say? The alignment notches for the bearings are cut on the wrong sides. ARGH!

So, we wait for another week to get another set with added notches cut on the correct side. FINALLY get it put together, and things are looking ok. Finish assembly, decide it's together enough to at least swing the thing back in to the rig.

Wait another week for pushrods to arrive (needed to verify lengths after assy). Throw them in, button it up, hook everything else up, freshen gas, and get ready for the big moment.

Turn the key, and......

Nothing. No fuel pump prime, no gauges, a No Bus error, etc. Sonofa*****.

Start researching these probs, and have narrowed it down to no spark. No idea why, everything seems to check out (have another post in OEM discussion looking for ideas).

And that is where we sit. If I don't set it on fire first, it may be for sale for $1.98 soon.