When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good to hear your getting on. It sounds just like me still, getting different systems sorted out one by one.
I've posted in the welding thread with my recent work after having to do a lot to my floor. All sealed up, bed liner paint and wax oyl on the carpet underside for good measure.
That's also the same solenoid kit I had to order. It cost me in total about £62 posted.
Now you see, welding is a skill I need to aquire. I'd love to be able to sort out bodywork.
Have you fitted the solenoids yet? I was so chuffed with the way they sorted out my gearbox woes. Having an auto box that would only shift up was no fun at all :/
In other news, There was a horrible rapid clonk from the back when turning. I immediately started cursing the new (recon) diff that is in there. Thankfully, with 2 pennies worth of wire I secured the tailpipe to the rusted-out hanger and it's all quiet again. Result!
That was the first thing I did after being flat on my **** with man flu, so the Chinese antenna project is still on hold.
So that leaves:
Aircon Compressor take 2. (It still sounds like I'm driving the world's only steam powered Jeep)
Electric Antenna
Fog light bulb. Which is realistically a new foglight because it's just a ball of rust.
Tyres. Should maybe be at the top of the list.
Now you see, welding is a skill I need to aquire. I'd love to be able to sort out bodywork.
Have you fitted the solenoids yet? I was so chuffed with the way they sorted out my gearbox woes. Having an auto box that would only shift up was no fun at all :/
In other news, There was a horrible rapid clonk from the back when turning. I immediately started cursing the new (recon) diff that is in there. Thankfully, with 2 pennies worth of wire I secured the tailpipe to the rusted-out hanger and it's all quiet again. Result!
Do we have the same Jeep here or what?
Only the other week I turned and corner and clonk clonk clonk. My dad was in the car and knew the noise instantly as it did it to him years ago. A ratchet strap to hold it away from the prop shaft to get home did the trick. I would advise that you double check your brake line that runs across the axle as mine was crushed by the exhaust falling.
As for the solenoids, they were fitted months ago now. I had my box going from 1st to 4th unless I used the selector and put in in 3rd. It just went on me after a couple of months of driving so was fine for a bit, went wobbly, fitted new solenoids then back to normal again.
Well I'll check the brake line as soon as I get it back, lol! Thanks for the tip
It's been a frustrating time in Jeep land for me recently. I noticed that the airbag light had changed from coming on sometimes to being on all the time. The horn was no longer a bit hit and miss and was now all miss. So I tried the cruise and yep - new clockspring time. Did the usual checking up on CF and youtube, looks like the sort of job I could DIY, right? WRONG!
I bought a crown clockspring and a cheapo puller for 9 quid which had the right bolts for a Jeep. Got the airbag out, no problem. Got the puller on the wheel and it stripped the threads out of the steering wheel. Rut Roh.
So I had to improvise.
Second attempt - use the claws from the puller kit!
No use, they kept popping off before I could get any tension on them.
So I tried to get something behind the wheel. First up - wires.
Not sure why I thought that would work, but hey. For the record, unless the wires are exactly the same length it pulls sideways and even then there's nothing to stabilise up and down. Stupid.
Then I had a think about how I could get some nuts behind the wheel - maybe if I glue them on some cardboard?
Looking good!!
But no. Failure
That nearly let go!
So I gave up. It went to the local indy garage who tried all their pullers and decided it must be rusted on or covered in red loctite. They tried heat as well - no go. So they cut it off and I got a second hand wheel from the breakers.
Then the next problem turned up. It seems that the bearing at the top of the column doesn't have any actual bearings left
like this:
There doesn't seem to be any way to find out what that bearing is and without any ***** we can't measure the original, so I ended up talking to the breakers again and getting the rest of the steering column. It's due to arrive on Monday so maybe we'll just pull the bearing and put it in the existing steering column or maybe it's time to swap the whole lot.
Well, all it took was a new steering column from a scrapper and it's all back together with the original ignition barrel. The steering is much smoother, the wheel is properly located and has nicer leather than the original. I can't claim any credit but it was done and I'm back on the road. The horn still doesn't work, though :/
I just gave it an oil change, because I can manage that!
I need to get into the windscreen seal above the driver because it's leaking and I don't want the floors to rot out or any more water going down the bulkhead behind the dash.
The rubber seal round the window is standing proud which makes it very noisy above 60 so I'm going to cut that back a bit and get some butyl sealant in there. If I find any rust I'll grind that back and hit it with some rust preventer.
Fun fun fun!
New fuel hose - better than being a fireball
Yesterday she tried to explode on me...
The fuel hose from the fuel rail to the hard line popped off. This isn't great news when you're running on LPG (Propane) as the engine will keep running and the pump will keep pumping until you've got a ton of petrol (Gasoline) all over the place. Luckily for me the line was the right length to dump the fuel from the fuel rail into the cone filter so the engine got a massively rich mixture and sputtered. It was enough to force me to pull over immediately and then I smelt the smell and cut ignition. I got home by cutting up a zip tie and running it round inside the clamp to give it more bite. No more fuel fountain!
Ok, I have to admit I should have been on top of this. The previous hose rotted out last week when I was at work and we fixed up a replacement which worked for a few days and then turned out to be unsuitable. It had too big an internal diameter and too thick a wall so the clamps dug into it over time and ended up not gripping. Anyway, I've got some proper hose (5/16th) and clamped it down good and tight.
While I was in there I could hear a big vacuum leak so I found and fixed that too. The vacuum fitting that ran to the airbox is no longer used (no airbox) so it was capped off with a pipe with a screw in it (NOT me!) This obviously died eventually so I've replaced it with a proper cap.
MOT (Inspection) next week, which is a shame because I've got my first rust hole. It's in the sill below the rear passenger door. I was poking around clearing up some rust spots and treating them when I poked a dodgy looking spot and it went through It's only about an inch round but I know it's going to trigger the guy who does MOTs. Time for a little welding. The good news is that the other bad looking bits ground back to good bare metal and I've treated them with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 which I've used before and really rate.
Oh, and while I was having a look round I actually got the grease gun out and went looking for zerks I've just bought a hose and an adaptor that locks onto the zerk so you can use the gun one handed - really useful when you're on your back under the Jeep. Wheels off next for the ball joints and axle UJs.
Edit: horn replaced with a new unit. It wasn't the clockspring that killed the horn after all. I'm telling myself that it was worth replacing the whole steering column for the airbag and cruise. If I ever crash, that airbag had better go off!
Didn't they melt?
I've got a new backbox now, shiny shiny until next week haha.
They lasted until I replaced the back box. Being right at the back it is the coolest part of the exhaust system so I didn't think they'd have an issue.
Luckily for me the line was the right length to dump the fuel from the fuel rail into the cone filter so the engine got a massively rich mixture and sputtered. It was enough to force me to pull over immediately and then I smelt the smell and cut ignition.
Yet again, our Jeeps sound very similar but for me it was water. You're line burst and cut out your engine, my water hose burst and cut out my alternator and power steering which told me something was wrong instantly. Luckily I was just heading out of a car park and pulled into the petrol station next to it before it could cause damage.
Rear Brakes imbalanced across an axle Axle 2 (1.2.1 (b) (i))
Advisory notice item(s):
Offside Rear Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt ()
Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge both on 3mm (5.2.3 (e))
Central Stop lamp(s) non-obligatory stop lamp not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))
Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Oil leak, but not excessive rear diff pinion seal (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Offside Front Power steering pipe/hose has slight seepage (2.1.5 (a))
Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement trailing arm bushes (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
So, the rear brakes were a bit of a mess. Again. Every year I swear I'm going to get a disk upgrade but every year I end up getting the drums sorted out and hoping they'll last properly this time. I ended up buying a refurb kit off ebay for the springs and clips and annoying little bits, and the local shop got new drums from their usual parts supplier. Let's see how it works out this time round. At least this time it wasn't just a set of shoes and an adjustment, they were set up by someone who knows what they're doing. Maybe I should just start looking for ZJ rear disks now!
Tyres were more fun, I was really happy with the General Grabber AT2 that I bought WAY back at the beginning of the thread. I only had four, so never rotated them and they still lasted 50k. So I bought their replacements, General Grabber AT3. Same size (235/75) and they look very similar. For £100 a corner fitted, balanced and taxed - I don't think you can go wrong.
The welding turned out great. I got some decent filler and matched paint for the guys and they did a flush weld instead of slapping the patch over the top and I can't tell the difference now.
So after that I had 5 months of trouble free Jeeping
Now I've got a misfire which seems worse when Cheap is wet. I strongly suspect the CPS as the engine cut completely when I went through a deep puddle, but it fired right up again after I left it five minutes. It pops and misses under anything more than light load (mainly when driving up hill or accelerating).
But before I go to that hassle, I've got some new NGKs which are seriously overdue and I'll fit them first.
Time for a list.
1. Misfire (trying new plugs tomorrow, not sure how to get a mopar CPS in England)
2. Loud squeak from Aircon Compressor Clutch (compressor bought, need dryer and someone to de-gas/re-gas)
3. Rear left power window u/s
4. Still got a whine in the radio related to engine noise
5. Small rust spot under rear right window (1mm) needs grinding/rustproofing
6. Still haven't sorted out the windscreen seal, it's annoyingly noisy at highway speed.
7. Headliner is starting to fall off over the rear seats. Time to pick some roof material, matching scatter cushions, etc etc.
8. Reserved for the inevitable number 8.
Yet again, our Jeeps sound very similar but for me it was water. You're line burst and cut out your engine, my water hose burst and cut out my alternator and power steering which told me something was wrong instantly. Luckily I was just heading out of a car park and pulled into the petrol station next to it before it could cause damage.
That's lucky. Both that you had warning and you had somewhere to pull over. When mine popped a hose it was like a WW2 destroyer making a smokescreen!
Changed the plugs. The old ones were a decent light brown all over but definitely getting old, the gaps were huge
I gapped the new ones down to 0.030" as you're better off with a bit of a tighter gap for LPG.
Two of the wires broke as I pulled them off and left the connector on the top of the plug :/ So I was in for a new set of wires as well by that stage and then I saw that the king lead had fallen of the coil end completely. I reckon it was just hanging on and I must have disturbed it when tugging on the other wires.
That looks like it has been arcing.
So I hope the spark was weak due to the half severed king lead. I guess I'll find out when I put the new wires on.
Very nice. I forgot about any gap adjustment for LPG when I did mine but it runs like a champ.
Oh, it'll be fine - just maybe the plugs won't last quite as long unless you re-gap them later on. At £2.20 a plug it's not like it's the end of the world
I thought I'd gap mine down as I'm chasing a misfire but that was before I found the whole king lead issue.
01-20-2019, 10:09 AM
It's only about an inch round but I know it's going to trigger the guy who does MOTs. Time for a little welding. The good news is that the other bad looking bits ground back to good bare metal and I've treated them with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 which I've used before and really rate.
