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Finally got around to pulling the motor and transmission today. I ended up dropping the Tcase, then pulling the motor and tranny as one. Did it all single handed, the toughest part was dropping the Tcase, that I should have got help for.
So on the list for the donor motor before dropping it into the Jeep.
1: oil pan gasket
2: oil pump (complete)
3: oil filter housing gaskets
4: full tune up
*edit*
5: freeze plugs
6: all new manifold hardware during reassembly
Check the condition of the freeze plugs. Especially the one at the back of the motor.
Yeah, I was planning on doing them all (seeing as I already bought a full set of brass plugs for the original motor). I forgot to add that to that list though...
Ended up getting home from a party earlier than expected, so I started on the floor repair on the passenger side.
I knew there were a few soft spots. But as always, things aren’t always what they seem.
Got it all cut out, going to get new patch pieces made up and in tomorrow.
Also got to the rocker panel on the passenger side, cut out the bad section, going to use a section of the donor XJ rocker to make a patch.
I hope to have the floor work done tomorrow, and interior back together on the passenger side. I’m still going to be pulling the driver side apart to check the floor on that side, but that’s for another day.
Got the rot all cut out the rest of the way, surfaces cleaned up, new seat reinforcements made and welded in, new floor pan patches made and ready to weld in. I don’t have any paint for the inside of the frame rails so I’m calling it for today.
Looks good, I'm about to do the same thing to my driver's side floor pan. What are you going to paint the frame rails with?
I was going to paint the inside of the frame rails with either spray bed liner or spray undercoating, but first spray it with Rustoleum rust converter. I know it likely won’t make much of a difference, I just don’t feel good about covering it all back up without a coat of paint!
I am really hoping the driver side is in better shape. From underneath it looks much better....but we shall see once I get the seat out and carpet up.
I was going to paint the inside of the frame rails with either spray bed liner or spray undercoating, but first spray it with Rustoleum rust converter. I know it likely won’t make much of a difference, I just don’t feel good about covering it all back up without a coat of paint!
I am really hoping the driver side is in better shape. From underneath it looks much better....but we shall see once I get the seat out and carpet up.
Good luck, I'm thinking of doing something similar. Maybe paint with POR15 or something.
So I ordered some of the brush-on rust reformer from Rustoleum, and 2 large cans of Rustoleum rubberized undercoating. I’m going to treat the frame rails in and out with the reformer, give that a couple days to dry/cure. Then top coat all of it with the undercoating.
Its not going to last forever, but I’d like to be done with the floor pan rot for 5-8 years...lol.
Hope everybody had a good weekend! I got back to the Jeep a bit, floor work is complete on the passenger side.
Covered everything I could in rust reformer, got the new patches welded in, seam sealed everything, covered it all in rubberized undercoating.
Lol, I forgot to get pictures of it all painted, but you all know what it looks like I’m sure. I got the front seat riser all rebuilt, then got the passenger side interior all back together.
I spent a bit soaking all suspension and steering parts in penetrant (again, for the 5th time). Then I enjoyed a cold beer whilst contemplating the next move.
I’m REALLY wanting to do the lift with the drivetrain out, it looks like it would be so much easier to do that way...thoughts?
While thinking about the next move I decided to pull off the OEM front flares and hardware, as well as the fender liners. When I do the lift I’m going to clean/treat/paint EVERYTHING in the wheel wells, make it all flat black/under coated/protected. Unfortunately I found more floor troubles on the driver side/under pedal area when I got the fender liner out.....so now more of that work awaits me (I was hoping to avoid more of that....).
I did did a few more things, like separate the bad motor from the tranny (going to keep it around until the donor motor is in, just in case I need brackets or whatever). Got the old/severely rusted xfer case shift assembly out. I plan on going with one of those cable systems for that.
It’s funny, the rear sits so low....the springs are just tired as can be. I’m going to get 6” of lift out of the 4.5” kit...lol.
Speaking of, I’m trying to narrow down my options for the lift & tires. Here’s what I’m thinking...
Tires:
Looking to run 33” tires, not stuck on any brand, but want a solid trail/off-road tire that isn’t terrible on-road (Goodyear MT/R looks good from reviews). This is going to be a trail rig/toy, but I don’t want it to suck driving on the highway from time to time. Most of my wheeling will be an hour+ drive away down the highway.
Rims:
Thinking basic black steel. I do not want to run any sort of spacers, seen far too many horror stories with those. I need to figure out backspacing to avoid major rubbing issues though.
Lift:
Thinking 4.5” for the lift. I’ll never go bigger on tires (well, I don’t plan to), so I’m considering a 3” as well. I would like to not be forced into an SYE and other associated costs in connection with the lift. I understand the driveline alignment issues with lifting and not using an SYE, I’d like to avoid it if possible. Don’t mind trimming, I’m assuming I’ll be doing some no matter which way I go.
Are you priming under the seam sealer? you should be. Once you weld in a patch I would wire wheel best as possible, clean, primer and then seam sealer.
Most here who run the size tires your thinking about use 15x8's with 3.75" b/s
Some here get by with 3" of lift with no issues and some don't. Seen this?
I haven't seen that infographic, thank you! I just pulled the trigger on the lift, went with the Rough Country 4.5" X-Series. Other than that, I am expecting to do sway bushings front and back. Given what that infographic says, I am going to be forced into an SYE, which I kind of thought was going to happen. One thing though, I have read in several places that you are able to simply use an OEM front driveshaft in place of buying a whole new aftermarket driveshaft once an SYE is installed...is this true?
Also, I was thinking of making my own shackle relocation brackets. I have ready that this lift can be a rough ride if the rig isn't loaded down with a lot of gear/armor/bumpers. Sounds like these relocation brackets are the answer...thoughts?
Originally Posted by mikebravo
Are you priming under the seam sealer? you should be. Once you weld in a patch I would wire wheel best as possible, clean, primer and then seam sealer.
LOL, of course not. I wish I knew, I would have done that! Well, I will be sure to do that from now on! I will have more patching to do on the driver side.
And it’s out!!
