PBR Inspired XJ
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
When I got my alignment, the tech told me that its common with xjs that the break pads wear a groove on the spindle where the pads are meant to slide back and forth. This was causing a pull to the right.
So when I got 'er home, I filled those grooves with weld and ground them flush.
Problem solved.
So when I got 'er home, I filled those grooves with weld and ground them flush.
Problem solved.
-- So, did it pull only with the breaks on - OR all the time you're driving??
Mine is pulling right - I have to pull the wheel left to go straight.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 278
Likes: 4
Didn't feel like the brakes were stuck on, but they kinda were a little bit.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
thanks a bunch man.
I'll be checking that tomorrow probably!
do you have any more pics of that knuckle/groove/assembly stuff?
I'd like to see what to look for!
I been trying to figure this out for years now
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 278
Likes: 4
I think I already posted these pics before, but this is the spindle with the brakes removed.
You can see where the brake pads have warn a groove where they should be able to slide back and forth.
This happens when there is a tiny chatter or squeal between the pads and the sliding surface of the spindle.
For some reason the steel is stronger on the back of the pads than the steel on the spindle.
Most other vehicles have a tin plate that sits between.
So the groves get warn in over time and your breaks won't disengage.
Weld a small bead in the grove. Grind it smooth, and Bob's your uncle.
Hope this works for you.
It isn't the only thing that will cause a pull, but it is a common thing, and is worth checking out.
When you're done,
Pat your self on the back and celebrate with a PBR!
You can see where the brake pads have warn a groove where they should be able to slide back and forth.
This happens when there is a tiny chatter or squeal between the pads and the sliding surface of the spindle.
For some reason the steel is stronger on the back of the pads than the steel on the spindle.
Most other vehicles have a tin plate that sits between.
So the groves get warn in over time and your breaks won't disengage.
Weld a small bead in the grove. Grind it smooth, and Bob's your uncle.
Hope this works for you.
It isn't the only thing that will cause a pull, but it is a common thing, and is worth checking out.
When you're done,
Pat your self on the back and celebrate with a PBR!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,592
Likes: 0
From: oregon
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho 99 intake ps pump 1" tb spacer 62mm bored tb eletric fans and more
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: Yuma
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, APN header & 2.5" exhaust
So here it is.
For the OBA, I ran a filter and an inline oiler into the intake on the pump and on the out side, ran a one way check valve, a pressure switch to control the clutch.
Off at 160 psi. On at 120 psi.
Used plastic airline. The same stuff they use for the air brakes on transport trucks.
From there, I followed the brake lines to the rear then behind the gas tank and into the bumper/air tank.
Teed it off there and ran it up through the gas filler channel into the body.
Put in an oil/water separator and a regulator to step it down to 120 psi.
Then cut a hole behind the gas cap door and put the quick connector there.
Done.
Works great.
I can fill a tire from 0 to 30 in less than a minute. And change a tire NASCAR style on the trail.
If I left anything out, leave a comment.
For the OBA, I ran a filter and an inline oiler into the intake on the pump and on the out side, ran a one way check valve, a pressure switch to control the clutch.
Off at 160 psi. On at 120 psi.
Used plastic airline. The same stuff they use for the air brakes on transport trucks.
From there, I followed the brake lines to the rear then behind the gas tank and into the bumper/air tank.
Teed it off there and ran it up through the gas filler channel into the body.
Put in an oil/water separator and a regulator to step it down to 120 psi.
Then cut a hole behind the gas cap door and put the quick connector there.
Done.
Works great.
I can fill a tire from 0 to 30 in less than a minute. And change a tire NASCAR style on the trail.
If I left anything out, leave a comment.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 278
Likes: 4
Just ask for 3/8 air brake hose and they will have the fittings to adapt to pretty much anything.
I explain what I used in this video.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 278
Likes: 4
I know it's been a while,
But we have a bunch of videos coming soon.
Subscribe to our YouTube channel and you'll be the first in line.
http://m.youtube.com/channel/UC_gV6D45GDD7xG9EK6v66mw?
But we have a bunch of videos coming soon.
Subscribe to our YouTube channel and you'll be the first in line.
http://m.youtube.com/channel/UC_gV6D45GDD7xG9EK6v66mw?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 420
Likes: 1
From: Yuma
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, APN header & 2.5" exhaust
I gotcha. You ever have a problem with the temp of the air coming out of the compressor or should those lines be able to handle it? I found a guy that used some pipe fittings to go to a stainless steel hose with a check valve for about 30 bucks since heat was an issue for him.