Bradly Mitchell

Id work on that drive pattern more. With limited tooth contact as it is in a D30. you want as much as you can get.

dan10101

Thanks Bradly
I found a diagram that matched that suggested I increase backlash. Since it tightened up after my last change I went this way. I went from .005 to .008. It helped the pattern somewhat. Other experts favor the toe on the drive side by as much as 1/3 of the pattern on the toe. I'm about 1/2 now, so I'm going for it. It's all back together now and I'm hoping for the best, but ready to take it apart again if need be. First drive was promising.

I found this video interesting. I'm sure there are plenty of viable options out there.

dan10101

Project update: (honestly this is more for me than anyone else, maybe someone can get something out of this)

I already mentioned that I now have most of an interior.
The engine bay is pretty much ready to roll.
Fan controller is working.
The body is good enough to drive.
Oh, it's registered!
I just finished the 456 gear upgrade and Detroit locker rear and Eaton True Trac front.
The test drive seems to indicate a working diffs and locking rears.

However... (their's always an however)
The battery was dead when my front end locked up. This problem seems to continue on the test drive, it barely ran. I managed to sneak it in the shop then it was dead. I have a new rebuilt alternator from the parts jeep, so I'll be changing that shortly. The battery is new. The grounds may be a problem, but we'll start with getting rid of the corroded alternator as it's reading 9v during the drive when the battery showed 12v.

Things to do:
Alternator install and wiring diag if that doesn't fix it
Install sway bar and quick disconnects, may require some rework
Install steering stabilizer (got it off the parts jeep so why not...)
order plasma cutter
create some missing pieces for the frame reinforcement.
Weld in the new reinforcements
Weld in the tacked in existing reinforcements
Dye the front seats so they kinda match the interior
somewhere down the road I need to figure out the starting, for now there's a hot wire to the starter from the key switch...
paint the frame as I go to keep it from rusting.
Paint the front fenders or the rear, hmm... black or red.... hmmm
maybe both.
and somewhere in there I need to do snubbers, limiters, bumpers, hitch, strapping points, winch, roll bars/cage, fender bars, CB install.
I think I'll be working on this for a while...

Bradly Mitchell

Got to love a project!! Got some good work ahead.

dan10101

Yes, lot's of work. But I was "laid off" a couple weeks ago, so I have time..

Huge progress today. I get to drive it!
I found out why it wasn't charging. The PO left disconnected a critical wire loom connector and after 4 days of troubleshooting I finally figured it out with the help of many internet websites and a few well worded notes from this site.

So, moving on. The Axles are done. I was finally able to drive it more than a 1 mile and determine that things feel right. I'll check them when I do the 500 mile fluid change and see if they still are in spec.

I still have a boat load of things to do, including welding up the rear frame reinforcements before they take a fold on me.

dan10101

Finally another update. No I haven't been sleeping, just not posting.

Here's my list from the last post:
Install sway bar and quick disconnects, may require some rework -
Still not done because the mods to the frame make it no longer a bolt on process. However, the Jeep drives very well without it. So not a priority.

Install steering stabilizer (got it off the parts jeep so why not...)
- Same as above.

order plasma cutter - Ordered a Lotos cheepo tig/plasma/stick welder. It works ok so far. I'm using the plasma the most, but the arc welder works well too.

create some missing pieces for the frame reinforcement. - Cut some out with the plasma cutter, welded them in place with the neighbors mig.

Weld in the new reinforcements - Done

Weld in the tacked in existing reinforcements - Also done

Dye the front seats so they kinda match the interior - Spray fabric paint works well.

somewhere down the road I need to figure out the starting, for now there's a hot wire to the starter from the key switch... It's fixed, I can't remember what fixed it. Sorry. I'll be adding a starter button soon.

paint the frame as I go to keep it from rusting. - Done
Paint the front fenders or the rear, hmm... black or red.... hmmm
maybe both. - Not done.

and somewhere in there I need to do snubbers, limiters, bumpers, hitch, strapping points, winch, roll bars/cage, fender bars, CB install.

Haven't done much in this area But this week I'm working on the front bumper and installing a new winch.

I have made a couple test runs on my property and that has allowed me to work out a few bugs. I finally took it out into the wilds and had some real fun in some deep snow. Discovered a bad TPS can cause the trans to stop shifting.

Another trip on a rarely used trail really put the XJ to the test. It came thru with flying colors. ( mostly mud colored, )

So current projects are the Front Bumper, I have the box built, need to cutout the wings and D-rings, It should be fine.

Also, the accessory wiring has always been an issue with me. So I'm redoing it front scratch. It will have a switch panel between the visors, a relay panel next to the master cyl. New LEDs front, rear, and side, 3 fan switch wiring, Onboard Air, and winch.

On thing that came to light on the snow trip. I was on a downhill run and the engine died (due to the TPS). I couldn't get it to start in neutral and I couldn't get it stopped to put into park. So I'm installing a starter switch that will start the engine in any drive position. I love the Automatic (never thought I would say that.) but it's a pain sometimes to get it to start when I'm in an odd position. Honestly with the TPS fixed, it's not really a problem, but who know when the next problem will crop up.