i just realized i posted the wrong paint pic above, that is the one for the blazer's leds im adding, the xj's is a lot simpler since it's interior lights are working off a ground switch.

 

oh mah gewd, i got pictures!

alright so the 3w led's i put into the interior hatch panel are imo pretty freaking awesome, and here they are!

a closeup of it


and lit


a normal pic of the light pattern on my crappy camera


a long exposure pic on the same crappy camera with my unsteady hand, but the showing of the light output is more true to how it is in person


and how it looks on the inside with the hatch closed, from over the center console, with the back seat down. The little green blob on the left is the switch i have wired in between the lights and where the ground is attached to the interior lights.

 

put on some led rock lights after work today! with a little bit of mood lighting in the grille

 

I like those lights in the grill! I was thinking about doing something like that on mine but I'm not a rock crawler, I'm a bogger :P

 

thanks, and this thing is mostly a mall crawler, hence the name, im just a tad bit obsessed with led's right now

 

I managed to get out and do a good bit of back-roads driving yesterday (about 100 miles of it) and i snapped a few pictures that i liked-

 

did you ever figure out where the water was coming in?

 

i think it was the weatherstripping on the door, but im not sure that was it, ive been parking the jeep so that the front pass tire is uphill of the others and havent seen but a few drops of water in the floor.

 

today was about 30 miles of trails in the jeep and a couple on foot in Prentice Cooper WMA

Snooper's Rock-


Trailside Springs-


Flecks!!!1!

 

My drivers window was stuck about 1/4 of an inch down, i knew the motor was good, and i didnt want to pay $80 for a new set of switches so i took it apart and fixed it myself!

Tools needed-
phillips and flat head screwdrivers
que tips
dielectric grease
panel removal tools


How to do it-

1. Start by removing the 5 screws holding the door panel to the door one is on the top right corner, one is behind the handle and three are under the armrest.

2. carefully remove the door panel, most likely some of the clips that are attached to the door will break, I had to replace 6 of them.

3. unclip the two rods that are attached to the inner and outer handles at the door panel end and detach the two wiring harnesses that are for the power windows/locks/mirrors.

4. Turn over the door panel and remove the 3 screws that are holding the switch panel to the door panel. (2 at the bottom, the right side of the picture; one at the top, left side of the picture)



5. Carefully remove the switch panel from the door panel, it will pull straight out.

6. Carefully pop off the window switches, power lock switch, and window lock switch.



7. Turn over the switch panel and remove the six phillips head screws and work to remove the cover off of the switch panel, it is attached with several clips all around the edge of the panel.





8. Here is the fun part, the switches are held together by a **** on either side of the switch that go into holes on a pair of plastic "wings" on the panel.



Under the plastic switch there are two rods and two metal pieces similar in shape to a re-curve bow that is the contact piece for when you hit the switch to roll the windows up and down. these contacts are the same in all 4 window switches and the power window switch (the plastic switch piece is the same for the lock switch, pass side switches, and rear drivers switch. the drivers window switch is different in size than the rest of the switches).





9. Now back to the switch panel, there are 4 contact points per switch on the panel, these on my door were pretty dirty so i used a que tip to clean off the fuzz, grime, and old grease. Two look a lot better than the other two, the ones that are more worn down are the ones that connect down when you use the switch.


(you can also see the light that lights up the switch when the lights are on located in the center circle of the switch. these aren't serviceable)

10. After cleaning all the contact points I went through and, using a que tip, applied a thin film of dielectric grease to the individual points and the tips of the metal rods.

11. Continue and complete all the switches, i switched the recurve shaped pieces between the drivers window switch and lock switch to try and keep from having to do this again any time soon.

12. Reassemble the switch panel and reattach it to the door panel by doing the reverse of the above, and install it back into the jeep. Don't forget to reattach both wiring harnesses and both of the rods.

13. Enjoy your working windows!

Time, start to finish- approx 30 minutes