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I wonder if you would benefit by having your tail pipe sniffed. I have done that after conversions to help get it dialed in
I want to get it sniffed, and we used to have the old sniffer for state inspections when they were required so many years ago, but my boss sold it to someone a few years back.
But, I have read that there is a little device you can get from HPtuner that acts as your oxygen sensor, to give you a pretty good idea of your AFR. And since I’ve said that I’m sure I’m running rich now with that cam installed, I can almost guarantee that I’m dumping fuel because my gas mileage has tanked. She used to get about 17-18 on average, but now she’s getting around 8, and I drive around the same way I did before.
Something else I forgot to add, was that since I put bigger tires on Ol blue, the speedo is now almost accurate up to 70. I don’t know what kind of gear is in the AX15 I got from the Dakota, but it seems that with the bigger tires with whatever gear is in that AX15 makes the speedo accurate, which is helpful because I was relying on a GPS speedo on my phone
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Originally Posted by pineapple_tree
I want to get it sniffed, and we used to have the old sniffer for state inspections when they were required so many years ago, but my boss sold it to someone a few years back.
But, I have read that there is a little device you can get from HPtuner that acts as your oxygen sensor, to give you a pretty good idea of your AFR. And since I’ve said that I’m sure I’m running rich now with that cam installed, I can almost guarantee that I’m dumping fuel because my gas mileage has tanked. She used to get about 17-18 on average, but now she’s getting around 8, and I drive around the same way I did before.
I guess she needs a tune
I have an O2 meter that works off a one wire O2 sensor I bought years ago that gave real time relative levels that I got from Summit Racing
Something else I forgot to add, was that since I put bigger tires on Ol blue, the speedo is now almost accurate up to 70. I don’t know what kind of gear is in the AX15 I got from the Dakota, but it seems that with the bigger tires with whatever gear is in that AX15 makes the speedo accurate, which is helpful because I was relying on a GPS speedo on my phone
I got a little work done today. I put a new door panel on and upgraded my door handle, and relocated my CB radio since the casing was shorting out the power wire to the blower switch.
My only complaint with the CB location is that it has to be shoved really far back so I’m able to shift into 1,3,5 without clobbering the radio
My OBD2 “conversion” kit came in, thanks to Cummins93!
In its essence, it’s a harness that adapts the old OBD1 connector to a newer 3 plug setup for the OBD2 connectors, and it requires a 96 PCM if you want a functional tach, or a 97-99 PCM if you don’t want a functional tach. Thankfully, he found a 96 PCM from a 2.5 MT. I got it all connected and secured, and she fired right up!
I also hooked up my scanner from work and it instantly recognized it as a 96 2.5, and I was able to see so much more live data than the OBD1 data. I found out that I’m running +25 for my fuel trims, so I’m actually running really lean, which is why my gas mileage is abysmal. I’m hoping to fix that with a proper tune, but the first step is to take it around the block and get a good data log and see what all is going on.
Im already excited for what I can achieve now that I have OBD2.
Aside from the “conversion”, I’m thinking about re-locating my CB, again. I’m concerned about the heat it might get from the vents, and it’s so long that it has to be shoved back pretty far to clear the shifter. It would be the perfect setup if I had an auto. But anyway, I want to try and relocate it to the right side of the console, facing me. I don’t care about cutting or drilling this center console because it’s so banged up and broken that I need to replace it anyway. And this way, I can find a place to mount I without having to figure this out on a nicer center console. This is where my port is living for the time being. I want to find a good place for it, and I need to replace that whole kick panel anyway because my knees clobbered it when I got hit. The harness with the new computer, all tucked away nicely.
I finally got the chance to drive around today with the new PCM, and, well, for some reason, it’s a lot slower.
I don’t know why, but it feels like the engine is “choked” now. The idle is a lot smoother now, but I’m not entirely sure why it’s so slow with the 96 PCM. I’ve yet to run around and record some live data, but my gut feeling is that either my spark advance is too retarded, or that the PCM doesn’t want to “add” power, but rather reduce power for emissions. Again, both statements are based purely off of superstition, but once I get the chance to get a good data-log, I’ll be able to start figuring out some stuff
As always, first off is the “bad” news. The reason my Jeep is so much slower is because I’m running lean, like I previously said. At idle, it appears that I’m flowing the “stock” amount of air, but when I get up and go, my fuel trims skyrocket to around 30%, and the PCM kicks the idle up like crazy when I’m shifting, which results in some clunky shifts.
Now, the reason I’m running lean is because of this camshaft. I’ve verified that there are no vacuum leaks and that all of the sensors work correctly, which means I really need a tune. I expected something like this, but since the OBD2 computer could actually tell me fuel trims and not just the O2 sensor voltage, it’s compensating and knocking down the spark advance and overfueling to compensate the lean condition.
Oh, and that’s why it was so much slower with the O2 plugged in on the old computer when it reached closed loop fueling. The computer just thinks the engine is running lean, when in reality, I’m just flowing more air with this camshaft.
Speaking of flowing more air, I’m toying around with supercharging my little 4 cylinder. There’s this guy on YouTube, and he successfully supercharged his 4 cylinder with a supercharger from a C230 Kompressor. I’ve been doing some research on what people have done with the XJ’s, and it’s a viable option that’s not that expensive. Now why would I supercharge my 4 cylinder? Because why not! I’ve already got a decent camshaft, and a whole bunch of other “mods”, so why not go further and charge it?
However, there is one downside to the supercharging of a 4 cylinder XJ. It requires the A/C to be deleted. The A/C never worked that well to begin with, and it was already super slow with the A/C on, so I might just gut the entire system to make room for the supercharger. But this is all speculation right now. For now, I have to fix my massive oil leak from the front timing cover, and re-do my interior. And that brings me to the good news.
I took a 6 hour trip up to Virginia and back to buy a whole bunch of interior parts from a guy who runs a scrapyard there, and for those who might know him, he runs The Jeep Yard.
I picked up 2 front seats from a 91 2 door, and they are in immaculate condition. The folding lever has to be adjusted for one of them, which isn’t that big of a deal. They need a good clean, but good lord are they comfortable to sit in.
I also got the brackets to adapt the 91 seat to the 94+ design, the kick panel under the dash that I wrecked with my knees when I got rear ended, a new center console that’s not cracked and it’s the color of my interior, a new headliner that’s been re-done, an overhead console that just needs to be recovered, the harness to go along with it, a bunch of brackets to secure the center console, the dash cover, and the clamshell for the steering column. I also bought a new carpet for the passenger compartment, which is a nice black color instead of the outdoor carpet that covers my Jeep.
My current plan of action is this:
-Replace the timing cover
-Weld up a new cherry bomb to quiet this thing down
-Gut the interior down to nothing, so I can fix my heater core, fix a bunch of wiring, patch a few holes in the floor board, almost every inch of the interior with insulation (not the stupid home insulation which I thought was an awesome idea but doesn’t work and just makes everything bloated), find and hopefully fix a few water leaks, and get all of the new stuff put in.
I know it’s been a bit, I’ve just been really busy with other cars that I own breaking. But I do have a little bit of an update.
I attempted to try and adapt the 84-94 seat bracket to the 95+ brackets, but that didn’t work out like I planned. Like at all. I’ll have to fabricate my own bracket to hopefully let the seat bolt up to where the factory mount is.
While I was trying to figure that out, I realized the biggest mistake that I’ve made in quite some time. If anyone remembers (or just go back to the beginning of the thread), I thought it was a grand Ol’ idea to put house insulation under my carpets. And now I’m realizing the massive errors of that, because guess what? They soak up water and hold it like a paper towel. After removing the carpet to figure out what kind of bracket I need to make, I discovered more rust and more holes from said rust because of my dumbass.
Regardless, this weekend is going to be the “teardown” part of the interior “restoration”. I’m gonna remove the entirety of the interior, to where there is nothing left but metal on the inside. I hope to also clean the floor boards of any and all paint and dirt and stuff to get a better look at the rust and holes that need to be patched. As it sits right now, there are about 5 holes that need to be patched, but I’m sure there’s more than what meets the eye.
Im also a little torn on how to patch the holes in the floorboard. I want to cut the area around the holes and make a perfect “drop in” cutout of sheet metal and weld it, but my boss said that I would be better off getting body panel adhesive rather than welding it. I’ll have to see what works best, but I know I’m going to be in pretty deep with how much work has to be done to these floor boards.
But, after that is all said and done, I’ll spray the interior with some sort of sealer/coating, and then lay down some insulation all over the interior. And maybe, just maybe, when I’m done, I’ll have a nicer example of an XJ.
Since you've already got the carpet out. Why not knock out the 95+ seat mount to give you a flat floor. That way you can use the 94 and older seats with their original mount.
Since you've already got the carpet out. Why not knock out the 95+ seat mount to give you a flat floor. That way you can use the 94 and older seats with their original mount.
I took a better look at my floor pan on the drivers side and, well, I’ll be better off replacing the entire floor pan. If you wiz wheel the paint off, there’s rust all on my floor pan. I’ll just put new pans in and then put the brackets for the 94 and earlier seats and not have to worry about much
As I stated before, home insulation is not what you need to use in a Jeep, ESPECIALLY if it takes on water. I apparently have some massive leak on the passenger side, and the insulation was holding about a gallon of water, which in turn rusted the floor pans even more, I discovered a ton of small and medium sized holes, and one very large hole under the rear seat.
So, it looks like I’ll be replacing the entire floor pans rather than just patching them. I also took the liberty of tearing out the interior so I can put actual insulation like dynamatt or something similar all around the interior.
Everything is disassembled The massive hole under the rear seat The passenger side floor pan The drivers side floor pan
