Thanks everyone! It's a work in progress but an improved TC drop is on the list and I'll keep a close eye on it.

What are the negatives of a transfer case drop? Obviously it reduced the ground clearance for the transfer case. Anything else?

New spark plugs installed. Champion copper plugs, had multiple recommendations for them, .035 gap.

It most definitely improved the idle and the old one's needed to be replaced as they where quite corroded and they also look a little ashy to me so maybe the engine is running lean. What do you think?


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3073a31ecd.jpg

And just after installing the spark plugs, I drove to my brother's house about 30 miles away and that's when the radiator decided to explode... :thumbdown:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5450f6b49d.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f0c0ef6efd.jpg

Had to get towed. $100 bill :(

Alright here's what happened. Going to the interstate, first time with the larger tires, I noticed the temperature gauge went up slightly. It went one tick past the middle tick and nowhere near the danger zone, but still hotter than I've ever seen it. The temp sensor was just replaced last year so I trust it.

I also noticed a new noise coming from the engine. Hard to describe it, but I would say it was cross between a tick and a gurgle. Only at highway speeds (rpm around or over 2k) and when accelerating or going up a hill.

And finally I was running out of gas so I pulled over to fill up. Turned off the motor and that's when the radiator burst open. Steam went everywhere and all my coolant went onto the pavement. The lady in the gas stall next to me was like "oh my!!"

I opened the hood and touched the top radiator hose and it was not so hot that it burned me. It didn't smell like it overheated either, though the coolant steam was the dominant smell for sure.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Right now I have to decide if I want a radiator from Oreilly's or autozone or similar, or get an all-aluminum one ordered from a website. The former means I will have it repaired in time to go to Colorado, and the later means I will have a better radiator for about the same price.

I ordered a premium radiator from Oreilly's. It's a 2-row, copper core and has plastic sides, and it cost $200 after taxes. However, it was damaged in shipping and the plastic side was cracked at the filler neck. I returned it and got my money back and had them order a new one that will be in today.

I think that if the new one is not cracked then I will use it. The old radiator that failed on me, it was the plastic side that burst open, but it was five years old. I don't know if I'll have the jeep for longer than that so I think I will go with that one as my short-term goal is to drive it to Colorado and put the $1500+ in upgrades to their intended use, and my long-term goal is to get the Jeep to 300,000 miles.

Here's the receipt from the last time the radiator was replaced, over five years ago. It says it's a radiator for a right-hand-drive Post Office vehicle. :icon_confused:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f8732d6b47.png

Removing the old radiator wasn't that hard.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...92506470c8.jpg

However, I couldn't remove the upper transmission oil line without bending the metal tube so I just cut it off. The lower tube I just pulled off and I think I broke it.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7d3ec17df5.jpg

So my solution was to install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler. I got the "medium duty" one from Oreilly's for $50 though, now that I think about it, maybe I should have gone with the heavy duty one because it was only a few bucks more and overkill is usually better than underkill.

I'm mounting it to the front of the AC condenser. It will be visible behind the grill but it's the best place to put it. It was pretty easy to install. It came with rubber hoses and hose clamps to connect it to the factory transmission oil lines.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5d1b319113.jpg

While waiting for the new radiator to arrive, I installed the steering box spacer and steering brace. It was a great time to do it as the lack of a radiator provided some extra elbow room.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4a6b57a71f.jpg

Premature wear of your motor mounts and run the risk of the mechanical fan hitting the radiator.

Nice! i think im gonna pull a trans cooler from the JY and toss it in my XJ as we,, since i need to replace the lower tranny line.

It solved two problems at once. First, I couldn't get the old trans oil lines off the old radiator that cracked and left me stranded two nights ago. And 2nd the new radiator had the hookups for the trans oil lines on the other side so I would have had a problem there.

Some people say it's better to have the auxiliary cooler run in series with the stock cooler in the radiator because it will have the added benifit of heating up the oil to 210 degrees which might help in winter. I'll keep this in mind if shift performance goes down next winter.

I would replace the tstat if i was you. Cheap and easy and i always replace them when anything gets hot or overheats. Just a suggestion. Good luck on your trip.

Your old receipt says the radiator was for a cherokee EXC RIGHT HAND DRIVE etc etc where EXC means EXCLUDING. Just an FYI

Where to begin...

The new radiator is installed. Copper core, two row. I put a Preston flush additive (not the kind with stop leak in it) with straight distilled water into the cooling system to clean it out real well. It says to drive it around for a few days then drain and flush it.

Then I trimmed the fenders. Followed the recommended steps for cutting in front and slicing and bending in the rear. Just a minimal amount, didn't even need to remove the wiper fluid bottle.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...22ed4f4289.jpg

One thing that I did different that most was instead of removing the plastic inner fender cover, I kept it there and zip tied it to the old fender brace bracket thingy to keep it in place. Then I used an old 4-wheeler trick to use zip ties to "stitch" the inner fender to the bumper and thus avoid the problem of having the horn and a few other things exposed to mud and crud.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...7f6dc870eb.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5a6aa16d87.jpg

Not perfect but I think it will do just fine.

Then I put in new engine oil and transmission oil, and went for a test drive.

I got a little carried away on the test drive...
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...de20aacded.jpg

The good news is we didn't get stuck, although I learned how ****ty clay mud is. It was nasty.

The bad news is it overheated. It happened on the highway on the way to the little trail. I know that it really did overheat and not a bad temp gauge because the water was boiling into the overflow tank.

The next day I replaced the fan clutch hoping that that was the problem. Then I drained the water + flush additive out of the radiator and this is what came out. :mellow:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ca4abd7a1e.jpg

With a new fan clutch, new 50/50 coolant mix, and a bottle of Wetter Water in the radiator, I was feeling pretty confident I had the overheating problem fixed!

Wrong... :hammer:

10 minutes on the highway and the temp starts to creep up, just like it did before. About halfway between 210 and the red tick I pulled off the highway and that's when it really boiled out of control. Boiling water doesn't cool very well and it becomes a feedback loop. I turned off the engine for five minutes, turned it back on and let it idle for a little while to circulate the coolant and it didn't take long for it to go back to normal temp.

Drove back extra slow and it was fine..

That all took place about a week ago. I obviously did not go to Colorado as planned. :(

But, I have a new water pump, and I'm optimistic. I will drive this turd to Colorado if it's that last thing I do!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...309c274585.jpg

(at least it looks good)


OOooooooooh.

Only starts to heat up after 10 minutes of highway speed driving. Driving around town all day and it's well below the 210 mark. What do you guys think is the problem?

Hopefully one of these products and a good flush will due the trick but I have a feeling I'll need to upgrade the cooling system somehow to compensate for the increase tire size which is what I'm worried has caused this problem. I don't know...

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3874aa245e.jpg

At least I have this fancy picture of myself working on my Jeep

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2583320e2a.jpg

Checking to see if I have a blown head gasket before replacing the water pump. This morning I tried doing the "block test" (that's what Oreilly's calls it) to check for combustion gases in the coolant.

But it was a highly flawed test, at best, and at worst it was a completely worthless experiment that spilled coolant everywhere. The problem was that coolant was rising into the test tube and mixing with the test fluid.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...3a1b12a02d.jpg

You can also see that the coolant/fluid in the test tube is a little bit yellower/browner than the coolant showing in the filler neck of the radiator. The blue test fluid is supposed to turn yellow in the presence of combustion gases.

Then I started seeing little bubbles rise up through the coolant/fluid, so I took this short video:

The engine was warming up but was not yet fully warmed up and the electric fan had not spun at all. The coolant was replaced exactly one week ago, and I did my best to bleed air out of the system by idling the motor with the rad cap off and also squeezing the top radiator hose with the cap off.


What do you guys think?? Should I try again but with much of the coolant drained so it doesn't go into the tube?

If you're still thinking about doing this, make sure you place it on the passenger side where the belt-driven fan is. I'm going to have to move mine over as I placed it in front of the electric fan which isn't on most of the time. Big mistake!

After it overheated on the highway, did you check the rad hoses to see if either one of them had collapsed?

No I didn't check the bottom one, but I'm just going to replace it anyways to rule it out

Did you replace the thermostat when you did the radiator and fan clutch? Highly doubt it's the water pump. If the coolant is bubbling like you showed and the tester is as yellow as it looks in the picture you may very well have a blown head gasket or cracked head .

Good question. Had that problem. Found a hose with a spring at the JY. Worked. Also helped on flushes.

​​​​​​​Sales guys always say its either mods or maintenance (or these days, mileage).

​​​​​​​Seen where engineers say the 2.8 V6 system evolved insufficiently for the 4.0.
​​​
Check out https://jeepexhaustadapter.com/

​​​​​​​Avoids brain damage if you swap certain heads.

I finally have time to work on my Jeep. I'm renovating the old house I'm living in so unfortunately I don't have a lot of free time. Actually I have zero free time.

But I've schedule another trip to Colorado for July 4th weekend and as satan as my witness I will have this Jeep road worthy by then!!! :furious::furious::furious:

I did the test again after draining half a gallon of coolant/water and it successfully tested negative for combustion gases in the coolant. Yes!

Yeah I'm starting to think more and more that the water pump is fine and that it's the lower radiator hose. When I was draining the coolant two days ago out of the lower rad hose, it did seem very old and possibly kinked at a bend. It's a fairly long hose for a lower radiator hose.

Still going to replace the water pump as it's fairly old though. Replaces the hoses too of course. Also looking into possibly using a higher pressure radiator cap to stop it from boiling over if it does get too hot again.

Yesterday I drained the stuff out of the cooling system after driving around for two days with the Blue Devil additive in the water to help it clean everything out.

It was pretty dark, dirty and nasty. That should be about 30% old coolant (hor however much remains in the block after draining the radiator), 65% distilled water, and 5% blue devil flush additive.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1fee49c280.jpg

This is what inside the head's coolant passage looks like with the thermostate removed. What the hell is in there??

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b45c5d4eee.jpg

I removed the old water pump and inspected the blades and they were perfectly fine. I'm 99% sure there was nothing wrong with the old water pump now, but I had to be sure.

Next, I smoothed out the inside of the thermostat housing to help flow. The inner angle of the right angle bend was particularly sharp before applying the dremel to it.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...18ed465f52.jpg

I did a little science experiment to see which thermostat I wanted to use. I had a 195*f one from Oreillys, another 195*f one from Autozone, and 180*f Stant Superstat from amazon.

I bought the 180 superstat thinking the extra 15* would give me a heads up that the coolant temp is creeping up again. I know that it wouldn't help the cooling system shed heat any better. But after reading that the engine needs to run at the temp it's designed to (the motor oil performs better at that temp, the computer and O2 sensor like it better too, and it gets better gas millage) I thought I would return it or put it on the shelf somewhere..

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...20db03b708.jpg

Turns out that the two cheap 195*f thermostats opened up well before the 180*f superstat! So that's what I chose to use. Maybe I'll buy a proper 195*f superstat later down the road... In the above pic you can see that all three were open at 185*f. IIRC the two cheap ones opened up well before then, around 170*f.

Although the old water pump was fine, I put in the new one just because why not, it's not that expensive and I already had purchased it.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...b48b25a8b0.jpg

Now I just have to put everything back together

The mix of what I estimate to be 30% old coolant (or however much remains in the block after draining the radiator), 65% distilled water, and 5% blue devil flush additive after letting the flush additive do it's job for two days of normal city driving:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...76baf2b6f2.jpg

Is it possible that it was just super dirty in there and the coolant just couldn't shed the heat of highway speed driving? This is the 2nd time I've flushed using an additive.

This is the new lower radiator hose:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a3ce1a0f64.jpg

The parts store had a LHD and a RHD hose (for LHD or RHD radiator?) and I simply brought in the old one to compare and get the same one. I got the LHD one. Actually they didn't have the RHD one in stock so I couldn't compare it to that one or see what that one even looks like

But after installing it, one of the bends is half-way kinked by default!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d99e58699a.jpg

Do you think I could have the wrong radiator hose? I'm trying to remember if I got the RHD or LHD radiator... either way after getting the new radiator the old hoses fit it fine (or so I thought) but the oil cooler line fittings where on the opposite side than the old radiator.

It's a Left Hand Drive jeep and I guess the difference is where the gearbox is located, but I think what I might do is find a RHD radiator hose and see if it fits better... :icon_confused:

oh and one more thing, neither my old hose or the new hose had a spring inside it. Do I need the spring you think? Is there a universal hose spring I could use maybe??

[UPDATE: Amazon reviews http://amzn.to/2s981b3 say the hose comes a little too long from the factory and that it needs an inch chopped off. This will probably be all thats needed to remove the half-way-kinked bend I hope!]

All I had to do for the lower radiator hose was trim off about 3/4" off the end that goes to the water pump. Fits much better and there's now no more half-way-kink in the bend.

I finished the water pump install too.

Just got got back from a test drive. It's been greatly improved! But it's not perfect. It didn't boil over but the temp started to creep up VERY slowest after about 25 minutes of 75mph driving. Last time, when it overheated, it was after only 5 minutes of 65mph driving! AND its way hotter today then it was then, temp was just about 90 today. AND I didn't have the Water Wetter in the coolant like I did before. Right now I have 25/75 antifreeze/water (distilled).

i drove around different highways for about an hour experimenting with different driving speeds and using the heater core to controls temps further. I found that it was fine at 65 but not at 75mph!

So, much better, but like I said the temp did start to slowly creep up and that's not good enough when I have to drive 9 hours through hot-as-hell western Kansas. My plan is to get it perfect, and then add the Water Wetter which will insure that it can handle going up a mountain at high elevations when the water boils over easier. Actually, I'm told that the Water Wetter just allows you to run with more water which cools better than antifreeze, it raises the boiling temp.

I think I'll try flushing it some more with some sort of acid or detergent.

and I'm also fairly sure I'm going to put some hood vents in.

after the hour long test drive, I took some under hood temp readings with a temp gun. Here they are:
upper radiator hose: 219
lowwr radiator hose: 169
top of air box: 120
air intake near #2 cylinder: 188
air I take near #5: 215
Inner fender: 142
firewall: 127
what do you guys think?

Nasty nasty!
That stuff you drained out looks sick.i might need to check this blue devil stuff out since I need to flush mine too.

Do you have the hood insulation? I can't remember for sure but it seems my 98 gets hotter under the hood than my 96 did, and the latter did have the insulation panel there so idk if that helps but I can't see how it would.

Ordered some hood vents today. GenRight, not cheap but I couldn't find a better option.

Now I just have to decide where to put them on the hood.....

No the hood insulation is not in place.

Wonder if they came with one or not in 97, I doubt the previous owner would have removed it

Oh yeah and I ripped out the AC compressor from in front of the radiator.
The reason I removed the AC compressor was to free up air flow to the radiator and because the AC was toast anyways. All the gas leaked out.

Now I'm the biggest tree hugger ever and the environment was one of my top concerns when thinking about removing the compressor. I decided to quickly check the pressure in the AC system by quickly letting out a tiny bit through the valve and listening to it. When I did that the tiniest little puff came out and that was it. What would have been even more irresponsible is if I tried to recharge it with new gas and all that would have just leaked out in less than a year (I saw on one of the old service receipts that they recently charged the AC less than a year ago). Thankfully the ozone layer is recovering nicely (not at all related to climate change BTW).

And I attached the transmission oil cooler to the radiator now that the compressor is gone, and positioned to be in front of the belt-driven fan instead of the electric fan which is usually not spinning.

Nice. I'm going to try and get a tracking s cooler from the JY Friday, myself. The line already leaks, so I may was well add one when I fix it.

I wonder if taking out the condenser will help with cooling any? Less air resistance.

Any new ideas on where your vents will go? I find it helps to draw a picture or Photoshop things on to get a visual of the potential looks.

That's what I figure, too

Not 100% certian but I think I'm going to mount them towards the front of the hood.

Most people place hood vents towards the rear of the hood where underhood temps are the hottest. Makes sense I guess, until you take into account the aerodynamics of the vehicle at speed.

The idea is that the air pressure is much higher by the cowl area in front of the windshield because air is hitting the windshield and compacting, bouncing around, flowing slower, etc. This can mean that air will flow into hood vents placed at the back of the hood, when traveling fast enough. The problem with that is it doesn't help air flow through the radiator at all.

However, the air traveling over the hood is moving much faster and this creates a low pressure zone, in the same way that air flowing over airplane wings causes a negative pressure that actually lifts the wing. The Jeep Cherokee is no airplane wing, more like a toaster lol, but it's still enough to act as a vacuum to suck air out of the hood vents. Yes you have to be moving fast enough but if crawling I think you'll still get the benefit of air getting pushed out of the vents from the fans, but the benefit might be greater if the vents were towards the back of the hood where most people have them.

This is also why the louvers in the vents are important. They provide the same negative pressure mechanism, but at a smaller scale.

In short: place them at the front of the hood to help with overheating at high speeds (like my problem), and place them at the back to help with overheating at low speeds. Although I believe vents at the front will still help with overheating at low speeds just not as well. However I may just bring a hole saw with me to Colorado in case I'm wrong ;)

The other reason I'm placing them towards the front is I think that rain and snow water dripping through right there won't be as much of a problem (but I'm still thinking about this aspect). They'll be over the battery and AC compressor on the passenger side, and over the air box and ECU on the driver side.

The ECU is a red flag obviously, but I think that could be covered by something rather easily (will have to consider overheating of the ECU though). And dielectric grease would help too.

The air box could also be a potential problem because you wouldn't want to suck in water into the air intake, but I don't think it would ever be a problem. In a heavy downpour and traveling at a slow speed (so that the rain water actually goes into the vents) I guess it's possible for rain water to dribble down the air box and find it's way to the intake hole to but I don't think it would be enough to damage the engine. I've seen youtube videos were people pour a little water through the carb of a chevy 350 or something to clean out the combustion chambers and the engine usually idles extremely rough for a second then is normal again but supposedly cleaner. Of course, sticking a "cold air intake" into a puddle and cranking the motor is a different story (not like that should ever apply to a Jeep but I'm just talking engine theory here).

I don't know but I don't think it would be a problem for water to get onto the serpentine belt either. I'm sure water splashes on them all the time from bellow.

If the vents were placed in the middle of the hood, rain water would get onto both the distributor and the throttle body and I've read reports that it can cause major problems with the sensors namely the TPS (throttle position sensor). Wet distributors are also very bad.

The very back of the hood might be the best option for mitigating rain problems, according to this guy.

Here's some more personal accounts and research hood vent locations, some really good reading too:

• https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/ho...1/#post2009330 (discussion about air flow, but it looks like he never actually installed them)
• http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoBonnetVents.htm
• http://www.oman4x4.com/hoodvents.htm#theory (great lab testing, but on a TJ)

Some info I've gathered on flushing out rusted, scaley cooling systems

Aside from the weak stuff from the auto parts stores, these are the chemicals people report using:

• oxalic acid - really good at removing rust. Can be purchased as "wood bleach" for about $10 a little tub from a good hardware store
• Sulphamic acid - really good at removing lime and hard water scale and old antifreeze crud. Can be found as "tile and grout cleaner"
• citric acid - this is what Mercadez Benz dealerships use supposedly. Can be purchased from them, or from a good hardware store
• Motorcraft VC-9. This is reportedly very very good stuff, it's used by Ford dealerships to clean the iron blocks and heads of diesel motors which have a problem with rust clogging the oil coolers somehow... Can be purchased from Ford dealerships for around $30
• dishwasher detergent - another one that many people swear by. Amway "Legacy of Clean" SA8
• CLR - most people agree this is too aggressive for aluminum radiators but many people swear by it

I bought a little tub of oxalic acid for around $10 bucks from my local hardware store. Will be putting it into the cooling system very soon, keep it in there for a few days of driving, drain it out and then pull the thermostat out to take a peak and see if it's any cleaner in there.

Hood vents are in the mail, should arrive after the weekend.

Colorado or bust!!

actually i've seen a guy flush the coolant system of a 2000 LeSabre with two bottles of CLR before. i cant say how good it was for the engine but he did it.

Use Amway "Legacy of Clean" SA8 laundry detergent. Works great.

http://www.amway.com/Shop/Product/Pr...?itemno=107858

I used the Oxalic acid

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5488eb0da2.jpg

I drained the radiator through the lower hose then reattached it. Mixed the oxalic acid crystals with hot water and poured it into the radiator through the filler neck. The crystals didn't dissolve in the warm water right away though and I had to kinda spoon it all in there.

After driving it around for two days, I drained it and this is what came out:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0c5e79a665.jpg

This time I completely flushed the system and removed the thermostat. The thermostat had a yellowish coating on it. At first I thought the metal was etched by the acid but I could scratch off the coating with a knife.

And this is what the inside of the head's coolant passages looked like after the acid flush:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0e758077a5.jpg

For comparison, this is what it looked like before the acid flush but after flushing with both Blue Devil and Prestone:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...06a9db03c5.jpg

So much better but not squeaky clean.

I'm not sure if I should be concerned about the yellow coating inside there or not, but when I filled the cooling system back up I put another bottle of Blue Devil flush additive in there with distilled water and now I'm driving it around and will flush that all out today or tomorrow.

I drove for about an hour on the interstate today and the needle never started creeping up at all! Stayed put right at around 200. (I have a 180 thermostat and will put a 195 in there soon).

So.. All fixed!!!

Nice job!

Getting 15 mpg mix of hwy/city

I put some truck bed liner, Monstaliner, on the fender flare area and rocker pannel/lower door area. Everything below the blue line:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...85a9b4b97c.jpg

Then I buffed it with Meguire's Ultimate Compound. The different was pretty big. I could have used the Ultimate Polish next for a mirror shine but I just wanted to get the haze out of the paint.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1ac427e833.jpg

Looking good!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...00c325288d.jpg

The truck bent paint will fade and lose it's gloss in only a few weeks, but I think it will look better once it does because there's not much contrast between the glossy dark green paint and glossy block paint.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...405d2447c5.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...1757149b34.jpg

Of course a bird already shat a GIANT poo puddle right in the middle of the hood.....

That last pic is really good, it brings out the green and the contrast between the bedliner and the paint.

Those birds will get ya! Effin things.

I flushed the cooling system for hopefully the last time today

Three days ago pure tap water and one bottle of Blue Devil radiator flush. This is what came just now:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...bad85aaa67.jpg

So as you can see there was plenty of rust/crud that the flush additive was able to get out after the oxalic acid. It also removed most of the yellow coating:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a778a7dae1.jpg

Not perfect but looking more and more like bare metal

The thermostat before and after the blue devil flush:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a239488aad.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...104dd219cc.jpg

And here's the inside of the aluminum thermostat housing, I think the oxalic acid noticeably etched it:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...37e07fee33.jpg

After I put it all back together I hoped in my pickup to get some distilled water and antifreeze but the fuel hose was dry rotted and I spilled half my gas tank in the Oreilly's parking lot. A day working on my trucks is still better than a day in the office though!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...77f99f2d19.jpg

Hey man, glad ya got it worked out! :thumbsup:

Yup, me too :D

I installed the hood vents yesterday

Only thing I did different than the way most people do it is I opened the hood and then took and vent and held it up to the UNDERSIDE of the hood so that I could get it in the perfect location that doesn't interfere with the bracing. Then marked the location of one of the holes in the vent and drilled a 1/8" hole through it. Made sure both sides where identical and symmetrical. This allowed me to lay the hood back down, place the vent on top of the hood where it belongs, line up the hole in the vent with the hole in the hood and that was how I found it's location.

The rest is self explanatory I think. I positioned them in the front of the hood rather than the back where most people put them for the reasons I gave on the last page of this thread.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...940a1ef255.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...59a4ed95be.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...887a94ffa7.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...25598176ee.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...5d77f979c9.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c70de12028.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...6c4feb89d3.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8fc1c880fe.jpg

They look good and more importantly I think they will function well!



COLORADO HERE I COME!!! Leaving for Colorado bright and early tomorrow morning to finally go four wheeling!!