Indeepwithajeep's '98 progress thread
#47
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So I tried to fix my evap canister awhile back with JB weld. Noticed it didn't hold up today. Has anyone drilled it out and put a threaded barbed fitting in?? I don't want to spend $100 on a new one. Although I need to get rid of those gasoline vapors before I start taking a torch to the undercoating.
#48
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Took a trip out to the coast this weekend. Detoured along the beach for a few miles just because Jeep. Ran across some military guys on duty blocking off the beach because they were target shooting.
#49
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Year: 1998
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My front pinion seal leak got a little worse now that I've been driving it more often. I want to try to get the leaks sorted out before the wet weather comes back. So of course since I'm pulling the yoke I should get the spicer yoke that accepts u-bolts. Since I'm draining the fluid I should get a new diff cover. Since I'm shopping at Ruff Stuff, I might as well get The Cure. Plus while I'm addressing leaks in the front axle I should get the axle seals out of the way too.
Last edited by indeepwithajeep; 10-21-2015 at 04:36 PM.
#51
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My impressions so far with The Cure. My steering is fairly fresh and tight. I felt a slight roll after I installed my lift.
First you have to remove the factory rubber dust boot on the TRE. The Cure takes the place of the dust boot. I cleaned out all the spent grease and hit it with the grease gun to get all new grease in there. After putting on The Cure I hit it again with the grease gun to see how well it seals. It doesn't seal in the grease much, but seems like enough to keep dust mostly out of the ball joint. So I'm guessing I'll be greasing the joint more consistently.
On the street it felt like before lifting the Jeep in terms of steering feeling and response. I don't think I had much of a dead spot, but it did give it a more solid feel. I've only just took it for a spin. I haven't' had any freeway time or trail time with it yet.
First you have to remove the factory rubber dust boot on the TRE. The Cure takes the place of the dust boot. I cleaned out all the spent grease and hit it with the grease gun to get all new grease in there. After putting on The Cure I hit it again with the grease gun to see how well it seals. It doesn't seal in the grease much, but seems like enough to keep dust mostly out of the ball joint. So I'm guessing I'll be greasing the joint more consistently.
On the street it felt like before lifting the Jeep in terms of steering feeling and response. I don't think I had much of a dead spot, but it did give it a more solid feel. I've only just took it for a spin. I haven't' had any freeway time or trail time with it yet.
#53
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Year: 1998
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Thanks! Maybe, but i'm not out in Milwaukee too often.
Just a small update. I went wheeling two weekends ago, and ended up hitting some deep water and it took out my driveshaft. Waiting on the parts to arrive for that. So in the mean time I swapped my rear diff oil and extended my transmission and transfer case breather tubes (already have my rear vent tube extended above my gas filler tubes). I scored an overhead console at the JY and a evap canister. Now that I don't have gas vapors floating around under my Jeep I can finally take a torch to the undercoating
Just a small update. I went wheeling two weekends ago, and ended up hitting some deep water and it took out my driveshaft. Waiting on the parts to arrive for that. So in the mean time I swapped my rear diff oil and extended my transmission and transfer case breather tubes (already have my rear vent tube extended above my gas filler tubes). I scored an overhead console at the JY and a evap canister. Now that I don't have gas vapors floating around under my Jeep I can finally take a torch to the undercoating
#54
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Year: 1998
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Found some snow on the way home from snowboarding.. I didn't venture out too far since I didn't have another vehicle with me.
#56
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#57
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Year: 1998
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I installed some shackle relocation brackets, ZJ skid, and got the hitch put back on. I'm thinking I'll have to hack my exhaust a little short. Any good ways of making I don't get any carbon monoxide back in the cabin?
The ZJ tank took a lot of extra drilling and fitting than I thought.
I have more tinkering to do, to get the most out of the rear leafs. I ran out of shock travel, but I'll just wait until I put in my Ford 8.8. I'll be losing a lot of shock length when I mount the shock mounts on the 8.8. It's a shame that I have 3.5" wasted uptravel length currently
I stopped after snowboarding to see how it performed.
The ZJ tank took a lot of extra drilling and fitting than I thought.
I have more tinkering to do, to get the most out of the rear leafs. I ran out of shock travel, but I'll just wait until I put in my Ford 8.8. I'll be losing a lot of shock length when I mount the shock mounts on the 8.8. It's a shame that I have 3.5" wasted uptravel length currently
I stopped after snowboarding to see how it performed.
Last edited by indeepwithajeep; 02-10-2016 at 11:03 AM.
#58
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Year: 1998
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Out with the old and in with the new. I knew they weren't too bad, but good to get the stock dampeners out of there.
#59
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5
Looking Great! I like the rack set up! Looks like your enjoying your rig .. Also those mounts are always good to replace after a decade anyhow!