So my Jeep when running the A/C down the highway with the exact same cooling system as you will run all but 230...
Been that way for 5 years... I've just gotten used to it.
I'd love to know if you find a solution.

Last trip back from Harlan it was that way and I rolled into a rain storm.
Soon as that cold rain hit the condenser my engine temps dropped straight down to UNDER 210...

 

Found my temp gun so I'll double check the readings I'm getting tomorrow.

 

How is the engine running? Feel sluggish? I wonder if the Cat is clogged causing it to work harder. Does it have a cat? meow?

 

Not sluggish, but then again I don't know what a stroker should feel like since this is the first one I've ever seen in person or driven. There hasn't been a cat in it for a while. Got crushed a while ago and decided I didn't want to crush another

 

Ah. Ok then. Just trying to eliminate a potential cause.

Have you changed the timing at all or the amount of fuel being provided?
Wonder if something is off creating more heat. Probably not, but do you have an AFR gauge?

 

I lined up the dots on the timing like you're supposed to and stuck the distributor in like you're supposed to so I'd assume the computer is handling the timing. On the scan tool I have it shows the timing around 14 degrees at idle and the most I've seen driving with the data is 45 degrees which seems normal to me. It has 4 hole injectors, but I forget the specs on them. The company I purchased the kit for the stroker from didn't seem concerned with them keeping up with the fuel demands. I don't happen to have an afr, but I'm actually really considering installing a wideband with a gauge if anyone has some very very budget friendly recommendations.

 

Hey brother, long time no BS'n LoL.
Bet you're running lean causing it to over heat. Haven't read through your specs yet, but did you have any type of tune done?

 

I did not. I talked to the guys I got the kit from and they claim it's fine with the factory computer. I mean the computer is still just reading the o2 sensor and throwing in however much fuel to get it in the right spot so I figured it would be a little off on the trim, but would keep up with it.

 

That's what I was wondering as well, but if the builders say it'll compensate, it should. I would just want to make sure.

Pull a spark plug and look at it if you don't have AFR gauge. That'll tell you a lot.


With motorcycles, we would run it up the road wide open, then immediately shut it off, pull a plug and read it to see if it was lean, fat, whatever and change jets to get it correct.

 

I can run it around a bit tonight and check the plugs, but it definitely is drinking a lot more fuel than before. 2.5 tanks has only gotten me 425 miles and that's filling up 17-18 gallons a tank.

On another note, I put a big trans cooler on a while ago, but have yet to put a gauge in to read my trans temp. I wish they never stopped drilling the port on the trans in 98, but since they did it seems the only options are bung in pan, splice the hot or cold line of the cooler, or get creative some other way. Well I was thinking about it and I keep seeing these temp gauges with probes and I know I've installed fan controllers that probe the radiator fins, expansion valves in ac that clamp little probes to the line, and similar type things. So it got me thinking. How accurate would it be if I clamped a probe onto the hot line and wrapped it in exhaust wrap or something to insulate it from the ambient heat.

Something like this is what I'm thinking. Just don't want to make more splices into the cooler lines than I need to because every splice is another chance to leak.

 

What about a hole in the drain plug to fit a sensor?

I have no experience with a sensor like that, so I can't comment.

After some researching, everyone says to splice into the line coming from the tranny.

 

I'm just hoping to avoid another splice, the factory radiator quick connect was cut off by someone so that soft line is hose clamped on and then there is a trans cooler spliced into the other soft line so there are already way too many fitting and possibly leakage points for my comfort.

 

Send me a text later if you still want a wideband. I get a really good deal from AEM. Look up the X-series one and let me know if you like it. I am even considering selling mine from the Evo so I can get a different AEM one that works better with my ECU. So you can have that one extra cheap if you want.

 

The line is cheap if you have splices that can be replaced with straight hoses.
Other wise your best bet is to just add in a Tee fitting.

With the AUX Trans cooler I would suspect your problem isn't the trans though, I thought mine might have been but turned out it was not.
You can take an IR gun and shoot it at the Trans Pan and it will tell you accurately what the temperature is.

 

I'd just like to see what temp it's running. I'm not worried about it necessarily, but I'd like to see how it does on the trail and highway and stuff. Just a curiosity thing.