The Golden Nugget
#16
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Location: New Hampshire
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Finally have the floor done!
1st layer of fiberglass reprep for new fiberglass and epoxy technique:
4-6 layers of 8 oz. fiberglass using epoxy resin, sanded and prepped for paint:
primered:
Drivers Side:
Rubberized undercoating to deaden the sound and keep moisture away from the metal:
4-6 layers of 8 oz. fiberglass using epoxy resin, underneath where the rear seat resides:
Drivers Side:
1st layer of fiberglass reprep for new fiberglass and epoxy technique:
4-6 layers of 8 oz. fiberglass using epoxy resin, sanded and prepped for paint:
primered:
Drivers Side:
Rubberized undercoating to deaden the sound and keep moisture away from the metal:
4-6 layers of 8 oz. fiberglass using epoxy resin, underneath where the rear seat resides:
Drivers Side:
#21
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Location: New Hampshire
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The first time I glassed was when I fixed the holes in the floor on the front section of the jeep. Since then my technique and knowledge has improved a lot.
For the rear section, I used a multi-layer layup using epoxy resin as opposed to a polyester resin. The polyester resins are typically what you find in any auto parts or hardware store. The epoxy resin must be ordered or bought through a boat supplier. The differences in the resins are substantial. Epoxy has a slower cure time, but once hardened, is incredibly stronger(much less flex). I used West Systems resin kit with the 206 hardener for slower cure time; It has a tensile strength of 1300 psi when fully cured. On top of this, fiberglass pieces are stronger when curved, like in the spots under the rear seats. In addition, I used masonry forming metal as a base and was both screwed and glued to the body. I got the metal from Lowes and a huge 9ft sheet is only $7 compared to the stuff you get at an auto parts store which is $6 for a 6"x9" piece. It is also a hell of a lot stronger.
As far a flexing goes, I overlapped the holes pretty well and the fiberglass actually reinforces the metal, making it less prone to flex, this is definitely noticeable in the driving experience. I need to get more epoxy, but once I do, I am going to be reinforcing the entire front floor section(rear seats forward).
For the rear section, I used a multi-layer layup using epoxy resin as opposed to a polyester resin. The polyester resins are typically what you find in any auto parts or hardware store. The epoxy resin must be ordered or bought through a boat supplier. The differences in the resins are substantial. Epoxy has a slower cure time, but once hardened, is incredibly stronger(much less flex). I used West Systems resin kit with the 206 hardener for slower cure time; It has a tensile strength of 1300 psi when fully cured. On top of this, fiberglass pieces are stronger when curved, like in the spots under the rear seats. In addition, I used masonry forming metal as a base and was both screwed and glued to the body. I got the metal from Lowes and a huge 9ft sheet is only $7 compared to the stuff you get at an auto parts store which is $6 for a 6"x9" piece. It is also a hell of a lot stronger.
As far a flexing goes, I overlapped the holes pretty well and the fiberglass actually reinforces the metal, making it less prone to flex, this is definitely noticeable in the driving experience. I need to get more epoxy, but once I do, I am going to be reinforcing the entire front floor section(rear seats forward).
Last edited by Juustncase; 10-06-2010 at 09:13 AM.
#22
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, Az
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
"I'm liking this jeep. You really know how to fix rust problems. I live in AZ so i don't have to worry about rust but my old car was filled with rust, i hated it. What color are you painting it?"
isn't it wonderful? lol
isn't it wonderful? lol
Last edited by D_Conrad; 10-06-2010 at 08:21 PM.
#23
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Better doing everything now though, before it starts snowing!
#24
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Location: Herriman, Utah
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've used fiberglass some doing body work / repairs, I doubt you will have any trouble with it cracking. It dries super hard. Nice build, keep it up.
#26
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Newport News,VA
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 H.O.
Very nice work.
Stupid question out of all the work you did, but how do you like your muffler? I'm thinking about getting the same one.
Stupid question out of all the work you did, but how do you like your muffler? I'm thinking about getting the same one.
#27
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
muffler is decent, a little drone at low rpms but not too bad. Definitely not for someone that wants a quiet exhaust. Makes the jeep sound more manly too.
#28
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Update! I ended up foaming and fiberglass filler'ed the rockers then rubberized undercoated them. Also, just got the 30x9.5x15's on. I am getting 1.25" wheel spacers in the mail tomorrow and 3" lift on Monday. Recent pics:
#30
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Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
Wow, that XJ is coming along very very nicely. I really give you props for all that rust work you did, looks good.