So after watching some guys compete at W.E. Rock Goldendale I decided I have procrasinated long enough on my build and that I needed to actually start it before my upcoming trip back to Holland. The only problem was the mess left in the shop from my room mate moving out and my brothers 3000GT build. So I set aside 3 days to work on the jeep and it actually turned into 1-1/2 days cleaning and organizing the shop and making a scrap run, and 1-1/2 days working on the Jeep.

I decided to start by tearing into the 4.7 stroker I had built 3 years ago that was sitting outside for the past 2 years. It didnt look too good. I fell through some ice on one of my first trips and sank it in 33 degree water. After that I kind of just didnt care. Overheated it multiple times and just kept driving. Over all it was abused.

All of the main and rod bearings were toast.




The timing chain was stretched




Cylinder 1 and 2 had some pretty good rust in it that honing alone wouldnt fix.

Melissa flipped the block over and all the lifters fell out out of order.

The high lift comp cam I had purchased is showing signs of some wear. I dont know if I should reuse it. I need to buy lifters and valve springs anyways.

The pistons are reusable but I'm pretty sure I might as well buy a whole rebuild kit.

Most importantly the reground 4.2 crank is still good as well as the rods.

Since the Renix block had alread been bored .040 over I decided against reboring it .060 over as it is possible to run into overheating problems. The valves and seats would need to be relapped too. I bought this 98 XJ with an engine that was already torn apart but the block and head is there and in good shape. I decided to pretty much start over on all the machine work and use the late model block and head for 2 reasons. After 96 extra ribbing was added to the 4.0 block as well as a main girdle to stiffen up the engine. After 1990 the changed the heads creating the 4.0 H.O. These later heads had intake and exhaust ports that were 1/4" higher and flowed alot better do to the more gradual approach to the cylinder. Luckily my head wasn't from late 98 when the heads were prone to cracking with the latest casting number.


The complete engine rebuild was not factored into the budget so I will be dropping in my stock 91 H.O. to get this project done sooner. Then I can slowly rebuild the stroker right and swap it in later. After all that bad news there is some good news. I got Melissa to help me with the tear down of the engine.





If any of you guys are trying to figure out how to convince your girlfriend or wife to let you buy new tools; have her get out in the shop and start wrenching with you. After about an hour of working with a ratchet that didnt always ratchet and trying to track down the right size socket Melissa decided to go to Sears and buy me a 309 piece Craftsman box set. lol


Besides tearing down and inspecting the engine I did get the XJ into the shop FINALLY. I masked off the bottom 1-3/4" of the doors and started cutting for my high clearance rocker replacement/mini boatside. I only got the 2 drivers doors cut before I had to start packing. I am confident that you will see more updates when I get back after Sept 1st.

 

Glad to see a new one coming along man

 

Yea, slowly but surely...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1083549

Worth buying, shipping, cutting off all the brackets, narrowing, building plate trusses, and new mounts?

 

or this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1073940

 

Win!


But don't narrow them

 

Thats what I was thinking. Exactly what I was planning on building except with 4.88s and 1 selectable locker. The gearing wont be an issue as I have a doubler and the stroker will put out enough torque for the road on 37s. THe RCV shafts are worth 1380 alone.

I need to shorten them for washington trails. Anything wider then 80" and you're screwed in the trees. I am shooting for 79 in the front and 78 in the rear. 61-62" WMS with 8" steel wheels and weld on beadlocks witha BS of 4" should put me just about there considering the bubble of the 365/75/16 KM2s mounted.

 

Just checked my inbox. Sold pending with money down on them. Might have been too late.

 

My current estimated build cost for my axles.

REAR, Currently have XJ44, stock
290 - Chromoly shafts (5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5)
173 - 4.88 gearset
80 - Install kit
824 - OX Locker
Disk brakes and conversion
Truss and link mounts

FRONT, Currently have full width HP44 stock
1385 - RCVs waggy width
190 - 4.88 reverse gearset
70 - Low range carrier
80 - Install kit
170 - 30 spline drive flange
Aussie locker (already owned)
60? - Flat top passenger side knuckle
Misc bearings and such. May need small bearing spindles?
Passenger high steer arm
Truss and link mounts

Anything Im missing or you guys have seen at better prices? These are all new parts except the flat top knuckle, also looking for used as well.

 

Alright. Progress is slowly happening on this build. I have trimmed 1.75" off the bottom of the doors and cut out the rocker panels to start to take measurements for the 3/16" lasered and press broken boat sides as well as frame stiffeners. I have decided to use 1/8 for the frame stiffeners running all the way from front to back. What I havent decided yet is if it will be worth bending the stiffeners into a "U" and running them up the inside of the "frame rail" as well.

I will be posting up pics within the next few days.

I also tore the stroker down, got the drivetrain in the Jeep unhooked and almost ready to hoist out, and decided where to go next with the engine section of this build. I will be dropping in the engine from the 91 I parted out while I slowly build the stroker. Working on the Jeep has really got me itching to get it done and go wheelin ASAP.

I have sold my rear XJ44. Saturday I am picking up another XJ44 built with an ox locker, 5.13s, chromos, axle truss, and 4 link mounts for 900. Then I ahve a guy shipping me flat top knuckles complete with high steer arms and everything to convert to 5 on 5.5", full width chromos (I will need to shorten and respline these), and an ARB locker; all for 750. All I need is to shorten my HP44 and get some 5.13 gears and assemble.

Lots of exciting things going on here. I enlisted a friend to help out with the business; which has been a huge need to be able to keep production time down. This means that things are planing to go back into full swing and you should see a website back up within the next month along with a new product or 2!

 

Got to work on the Jeep a little.

Engine, trans, and t case has been hoisted out and seperated. Engine is on the engine stand waiting to be cleaned up and sent to the machinist where it will be on its way to a 4.7 stroker.

Trans will just need a new toqrue converter seal for good measure. The T case will be taken apart and an SYE installed then bolted to the front crawl box to form a doubler.






Both rocker panels are now cut out. You can see where the passenger side was pretty damaged. Barely noticeable now. I trimmed 1-3/4" up the doors and cut the rockers out to the "step". When the press broken rocker replacements and tree sliders are welded on this will give over 3-3/4" more ground clearance over a standard rock slider like you would expect from JCR or other manufacturers.









Trying to figure out the best way to remove the stock LCA frame mounts. Usually I just cut them off with a cut off wheel but Im think drilling out the spot welds will be cleaner and make it easier for when I weld on my unibody stiffeners. This is proving to be a pain in the butt. Anyone have any tips?

 

use a sawzall on the LCA mounts, at least to get the brackets out of the way, then you can just clean up what is laying flat against the frame rails... Sawzall was way faster, and cleaner, and safer than the cut off wheel... lol remember, I almost lost a finger... haha

Im anxious to see some pictures of the transfer case all doubled up

 

The rear axle I picked up.

 

Sawzall takes a while compared to a good cut off wheel man. Thats what I used for my rockers. Yea Ive worked with the cut off wheels quite a bit. Gotta be super careful with them, expecially in situations where they can easily get pinched. Ive only had 1 blow apart on me and it took out my knuckle.

 

nice axle man. Whats the width on that bad boy

 

XJ width. SO what is that 61.5"? It looks longer in the pic then it really is. I think im gonna cut off the whole truss and redo it with new mounts, onvert it to disc brakes, Get a u bolt style yoke, and an air actuator to replace the OX cable.