expedition/trail ready zombie disposal rig
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: virginia
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
expedition/trail ready zombie disposal rig
ive been lurking around on here for months, shamelessly taking advantage of the wealth of xj information to be had. I thought it might be time to introduce myself, and my truck. as evidenced by my user name, my truck was running 33s on a 3" lift, thus the 'lowcog' moniker. as of last night, it is running 35s on a 7/9" lift...
about my xj;
drivetrain:
4.0
auto
slip yoke eliminator
custom rear driveshaft
axles:
completely stock axles
3.55 gears
front suspension:
4" skyjacker coils
3" coil spacers
control arm drop brackets
tubular lower control arms
rear suspension:
3" helper leaf
4" blocks
2" shakles
build plans;
8.25 rear, 4.56 or 4.88 gears and air lockers.
zombie disposal unit paint job
motor build: I can get a 99 engine for $180 locally all day long. simple rebuild, throw it in. nothing fancy
roof rack with spare tire mount, ladder, and a couple other cool little touches.
I have a rear bumper with integrated hitch waiting to be put on
need to make a front bumper, frame stiffeners, and 2x6 rocker mod
im not looking to throw a ton of money into this thing, I just want a capable off road rig that looks decent and is reliable enough to spend a month at a time in the north maine woods. im not building this rig for the damned 4wor ultimate adventure, I just want to get into the middle of nowhere, camp, and make it out again.
about my xj;
drivetrain:
4.0
auto
slip yoke eliminator
custom rear driveshaft
axles:
completely stock axles
3.55 gears
front suspension:
4" skyjacker coils
3" coil spacers
control arm drop brackets
tubular lower control arms
rear suspension:
3" helper leaf
4" blocks
2" shakles
build plans;
8.25 rear, 4.56 or 4.88 gears and air lockers.
zombie disposal unit paint job
motor build: I can get a 99 engine for $180 locally all day long. simple rebuild, throw it in. nothing fancy
roof rack with spare tire mount, ladder, and a couple other cool little touches.
I have a rear bumper with integrated hitch waiting to be put on
need to make a front bumper, frame stiffeners, and 2x6 rocker mod
im not looking to throw a ton of money into this thing, I just want a capable off road rig that looks decent and is reliable enough to spend a month at a time in the north maine woods. im not building this rig for the damned 4wor ultimate adventure, I just want to get into the middle of nowhere, camp, and make it out again.
Last edited by 87lowcog35s; 06-01-2014 at 08:35 PM.
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Franksville, Wi
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like an accident waiting to happen.
You went from a stable lcog setup to 'holy **** I hope a gust of wind doesn't blow me over'.
Lift height means nothing if it isn't done proper and safe.
You went from a stable lcog setup to 'holy **** I hope a gust of wind doesn't blow me over'.
Lift height means nothing if it isn't done proper and safe.
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: virginia
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like yellow bullet over here..... I realize the spacers and blocks are not the smartest way to go, but they do the job for now. Likewise with the 35s/3.55s. I cannot feel any difference between the 33s and the 35s on the street; gas mileage is still non existent, and going up hills sucks. As far as the axles, I abused the hell out of this thing with the 33s, burnouts donuts and sliding the *** around 90° turns to see what they could take and nothing ever snapped. the 35s fit with the 3" lift so I'm debating loosing the spacers and blocks altogether. As far as stability, it feels fine. I can take turns at the same speeds I did with the 3". And I abused the new setup pretty good in the woods behind my house before it ever saw the street, I'd rather something break in the woods, than on the street. That being said, if I go down to 5"s, what would be the right way to do it? I see spacers and blocks all the time, so I didn't really expect the negative comments on those. Obviously an otk steering and adjustable track bar, but what would be a safer route over the spacers and blocks? Not being a smartass, looking for positive feedback.
Last edited by 87lowcog35s; 06-01-2014 at 08:55 PM.
#7
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,562
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like yellow bullet over here..... I realize the spacers and blocks are not the smartest way to go, but they do the job for now. Likewise with the 35s/3.55s. I cannot feel any difference between the 33s and the 35s on the street; gas mileage is still non existent, and going up hills sucks. As far as the axles, I abused the hell out of this thing with the 33s, burnouts donuts and sliding the *** around 90° turns to see what they could take and nothing ever snapped. The shackles are coming out, I don't like the rear sitting higher than the front, and the 35s fit with the 3" lift so I'm debating loosing the spacers and blocks altogether. As far as stability, it feels fine. I can take turns at the same speeds I did with the 3". And I abused the new setup pretty good in the woods behind my house before it ever saw the street, I'd rather something break in the woods, than on the street. That being said, if I go back to 7"s, what would be the right way to do it? I see spacers and blocks all the time, so I didn't really expect the negative comments on those. Obviously an otk steering and adjustable track bar, but what would be a safer route over the spacers and blocks? Not being a smartass, looking for positive feedback.
I'd like to see a picture of your rig - not to flame you just out of curiosity.
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