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If you are referring to the cargo area metal slides on the floor, yes. The end caps were riveted, and the slides fit between the ends. After I pulled my carpet out, I ground the remaining rusted pins off, primed and painted.
Christ, this is one of the finest restorations I have seen. I am envious. I have started similar journeys and would love to have something that nears perfection, but I never seem to have the time to put it all together before life changes the circumstances on me. Very Nice!
Crist, this is one of the finest restorations I have seen. I am envious. I have started similar journeys and would love to have something that nears perfection, but I never seem to have the time to put it all together before life changes the circumstances on me. Very Nice!
Carpet Installation - Looks are deceiving... Took more time
Eighteen hours later... I'm close to being done. Best lesson learned was… Fit the wheel-wells first. It became obvious that since the carpet started flat… Then molded… The widest “fitted” width are the wheel-wells. Once I figured this out… The nip/tuck began! By far I spent the most time fitting around the spare-tire hardware… As it seems the carpet was molded without this in mind.
Mine were riveted through the carpet into the sheet metal floor.
So two of mine have come loose and still have the plastic "bung" - I guess I would call it that - is still affixed. I'm wondering if I need to replace the bungs though. To be perfectly honest I haven't inspected the issue too too seriously at this point yet.
Originally Posted by Crist Clapper
Unfortunately, I don't have any photos. On the back of the cargo-strips are spikes that push thru the carpet, then pinch to hold the strips in place.
Thank you sir, I appreciate it!
Here's a currently picture of my Waggie - I haven't really started on the exterior restoration yet as I've been focusing on the interior and on reliability/performing long-overdue maintenance. But baby got herself a new set of shoes recently. I elected to put them on the OEM wheels (that *also* need restored ) instead of the black steel wheels with 31'' tires I had before. They were rubbing so I went down to 30'' tires. With the OEM wheels and 30" tires, the 2''-lift springs make her look a little taller & skinnier than I prefer.
I also recently had the driver's seat re-covered with OEM fabric and new foam. Went with vinyl all around rather than just on the sides as was OEM. It was about a $500 difference in price and honestly you can't tell. It's such a wonderful feeling to sit in that seat now!
1) Remove those nasty scratches in the driver's-door-window: http://www.glassrestorationinc.com/ (I wanted all glass-stamps to match - No OEM available)
1) Remove those nasty scratches in the driver's-door-window: http://www.glassrestorationinc.com/ (I wanted all glass-stamps to match - No OEM available)
Not that anything is cheap but I imagine based on my research that even rewebbing the belts is pricey? Did they restore just webbing or the buckles and all that?
Not that anything is cheap but I imagine based on my research that even rewebbing the belts is pricey? Did they restore just webbing or the buckles and all that?
I expect you may know part of my response... The cost is relative.
In my case... I reused the hardware, with new webbing and new badges.
I expect you may know part of my response... The cost is relative.
In my case... I reused the hardware, with new webbing and new badges.
Yes indeed you don't restore a Jeep to that beauty and worry about cost. Keep up the good work. I was making that comment because I was considering rewebbing mine but once I seen the price not worth it for my use.
What I do need to do is source rear seat belts as mine were in bad shape. Tan color if I could find them.
12-24-2017, 09:05 PM
) instead of the black steel wheels with 31'' tires I had before. They were rubbing so I went down to 30'' tires. With the OEM wheels and 30" tires, the 2''-lift springs make her look a little taller & skinnier than I prefer.
