Black Jack Jeep XJ 99 Build
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
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From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Great job on the jeep can you tell me more on the e85 conversion what did you change to run e 85 and how does it run?
It does provide a little more umpfh off the line as the octane rating is higher. I purchased a conversion kit online that automatically adjusts the timings when ethanol is "detected". All I had to do was attach some wires to each injector and it was good to go. One end to the injector, the other to the Jeeps standard connector. Hope that helps!
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
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From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
So, I was able to get the springs to the height I wanted...but now there is a weird repeating Ka-Clunk when I release the gas pedal. When under pressure (such as when accelerating or braking), everything is fine. Really weird...it started after I began towing trailer loads of paving stones. I thought it was just the trailer being "out of balance" until last night after removing the trailer and the vibration continued. I have a suspicion of what's causing the issue. I think the U-Bolts weren't tight enough and now there is just enough room to wiggle and cause the vibration. We shall see! 
By the way, I have a set of TeraFlex extended rear Shackles for sale!

By the way, I have a set of TeraFlex extended rear Shackles for sale!
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Excited for the Jeep Parts Swap Meet on Saturday. Really hoping I can pick up the axles I need! Anyone else from Grand Junction going?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Its been a long time since I have done anything to my Jeep... But that's about to change! Yesterday, I purchased a set of axles...
Now, just need the time to prepare! Stay tuned...
Now, just need the time to prepare! Stay tuned...
Last edited by eggdashure; Mar 3, 2013 at 01:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Someday...when I win the lottery,
I'll get a set of 16" Moab's or Icon's with 265/75/16's or 285's. That to me is the sweet spot on Cherokee's...just looks like what a Rubicon Cherokee would run if it existed.
The Green XJ in these pics is my eventual goal.

The Green XJ in these pics is my eventual goal.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Haven't posted in a while, so I thought I would just quickly post that I had to completely overhaul my cooling system over the past few nights. Well, the radiator was the only necessary thing to change...but I figured I'm already tearing things apart, I might as well make this a one time adventure!
I replaced the following:
Radiator and cap
Both upper and lower hoses
Water pump
Thermostat
Coolant of course
The fun was the lower transmission cooler line off the rad...the one with the "quick" disconnect. Mine had seized in the tube and no amount of wrenching or cheap fuel line 'tools' could free it.
A little tip for anyone else that may have problems with this. I headed down to the auto parts store ready to drop $40 on this line. But, the guy at the store said "I would just cut the rubber line and clamp it down tight." So for $2 bucks in clamps, I'm back in business. I'll monitor this line to be sure it holds strong and report back if there are any mishaps.
I replaced the following:
Radiator and cap
Both upper and lower hoses
Water pump
Thermostat
Coolant of course
The fun was the lower transmission cooler line off the rad...the one with the "quick" disconnect. Mine had seized in the tube and no amount of wrenching or cheap fuel line 'tools' could free it.
A little tip for anyone else that may have problems with this. I headed down to the auto parts store ready to drop $40 on this line. But, the guy at the store said "I would just cut the rubber line and clamp it down tight." So for $2 bucks in clamps, I'm back in business. I'll monitor this line to be sure it holds strong and report back if there are any mishaps.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey, just read your build, good stuff. I found it linked from your write up here... Any chance you could fix the broken image links in the write-up to help us wanting to swap our control arms?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Hey Mitchellsk,
I lost the images after the site I was hosting with went under. All gone...sorry!
Maybe I can answer any questions you have?
I lost the images after the site I was hosting with went under. All gone...sorry!

Maybe I can answer any questions you have?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Well...that was an interesting trip! Towed our pop up to Ouray and then decided to take a trip up to Animas Forks via Engineer Pass. At the start, I couldn't get the T-Case in to 4-Lo. I messed with the linkage on the trail and finally was able to get the Jeep in to 4-Lo. Then, about 3/4's of the way up the hill my Jeep just died, no RPM's...the engine was just gone.
No sputtering, it just died. Anyone that is familiar with the San Juan's knows that the shelf trails can be VERY narrow and my Jeep stalled out in a very inopportune area. Of course, it wouldn't start again either. It would crank, but wouldn't kick over. Some nice fellow Jeepers helped to get me out of the way and one of the guys says "Hey, just for grins...try it again." Started right up and no more problems the rest of the trip...except for now I have a Check Engine light. One of the guys said "It might be the Neutral Safety Switch..." Perhaps my fiddling with the 4x4 linkage did something.
I pulled the codes for the CEL and my Jeep is showing P0320 and P0132. I'm guessing the P0132 was probably the O2 wires rubbing on the drive shaft. Hopefully, that will be an easy fix with electrical tape and zip ties.
The P0320 is a bit different, the code says to check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Since getting the error, my Jeep is cranking several more rounds to start in the morning.
At any rate, I will roll under the Heep this weekend and see what I can see. Any suggestions while I'm under there?
Thanks!
No sputtering, it just died. Anyone that is familiar with the San Juan's knows that the shelf trails can be VERY narrow and my Jeep stalled out in a very inopportune area. Of course, it wouldn't start again either. It would crank, but wouldn't kick over. Some nice fellow Jeepers helped to get me out of the way and one of the guys says "Hey, just for grins...try it again." Started right up and no more problems the rest of the trip...except for now I have a Check Engine light. One of the guys said "It might be the Neutral Safety Switch..." Perhaps my fiddling with the 4x4 linkage did something.
I pulled the codes for the CEL and my Jeep is showing P0320 and P0132. I'm guessing the P0132 was probably the O2 wires rubbing on the drive shaft. Hopefully, that will be an easy fix with electrical tape and zip ties.
The P0320 is a bit different, the code says to check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Since getting the error, my Jeep is cranking several more rounds to start in the morning.
At any rate, I will roll under the Heep this weekend and see what I can see. Any suggestions while I'm under there?

Thanks!
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