Baby Jeep
10-06-2008, 11:07 PM
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Baby Jeep
1999;
"Baby Jeep" was bought as a grocery getter, open diff's, doughnut spare…
I added 235 all terrains, full sized spare, C4x4 hooks, stock transfer case/gas tank skids, IPF headlights, Uniden CB and went wheeling.
2000, was no time at all and I realized she was going to need some amour and clearance to survive the trails with the Little Jeep.
I added JKS quicker disconnects, C4x4 rock rails and OME 2.0” lift. It was at this time that an SYE was required... I went with RE hack and tap.
2005, several years later, we got my wife a WJ, the Baby Jeep became my daily driver. Durring this time I really tore up the bumpers.
I cut the stock front bumper back added a C-Rok rear bumper... No pic's.
2006 came fast, the 3.07 gearing was causing me to constantly ride the clutch, and, I was cutting up all terrains like mad… they never failed me, but I was always in fear. All my buddies had gone to larger/tougher tires and lockers/spools.
I added 4.56 gearing, and Detroit True-Tracs, 5 Interco 31x9.5 TSL radials, Currie HD steering and a set of RE fixed length lower control arms.
2007, during this time, the stock transfer case skid really started to limit my progress on the trail.
I added TNT chassis reinforcing kit and belly up skid plate.
2008, all my buddies have gone to 32-33-35” rubber… getting around the trails with them has been really tough.
So, I added 33x10.5 TSL radials, 4:1 for the 231, Kevin’s off Road trac bar, RE Super Flex adjustable control arms and RigidCo front bumper/chassis reinforcing.
links are to flex pictures...
http://members.***.net/huddy31/beepss1front3quater33.jpg
http://members.***.net/huddy31/beepss1rear3quater33.jpg
http://members.***.net/huddy31/beepss1sideviewlg33.jpg
"Baby Jeep" was bought as a grocery getter, open diff's, doughnut spare…
I added 235 all terrains, full sized spare, C4x4 hooks, stock transfer case/gas tank skids, IPF headlights, Uniden CB and went wheeling.
2000, was no time at all and I realized she was going to need some amour and clearance to survive the trails with the Little Jeep.
I added JKS quicker disconnects, C4x4 rock rails and OME 2.0” lift. It was at this time that an SYE was required... I went with RE hack and tap.
2005, several years later, we got my wife a WJ, the Baby Jeep became my daily driver. Durring this time I really tore up the bumpers.
I cut the stock front bumper back added a C-Rok rear bumper... No pic's.
2006 came fast, the 3.07 gearing was causing me to constantly ride the clutch, and, I was cutting up all terrains like mad… they never failed me, but I was always in fear. All my buddies had gone to larger/tougher tires and lockers/spools.
I added 4.56 gearing, and Detroit True-Tracs, 5 Interco 31x9.5 TSL radials, Currie HD steering and a set of RE fixed length lower control arms.
2007, during this time, the stock transfer case skid really started to limit my progress on the trail.
I added TNT chassis reinforcing kit and belly up skid plate.
2008, all my buddies have gone to 32-33-35” rubber… getting around the trails with them has been really tough.
So, I added 33x10.5 TSL radials, 4:1 for the 231, Kevin’s off Road trac bar, RE Super Flex adjustable control arms and RigidCo front bumper/chassis reinforcing.
links are to flex pictures...
http://members.***.net/huddy31/beepss1front3quater33.jpg
http://members.***.net/huddy31/beepss1rear3quater33.jpg
http://members.***.net/huddy31/beepss1sideviewlg33.jpg
Last edited by Mike H.; 09-12-2009 at 06:59 PM.
10-06-2008, 11:24 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
I should note... the XJ was named "Baby Jeep" by my now wife... At the time, my daily driver was a full sized Jeep...
Last edited by Mike H.; 09-12-2009 at 07:01 PM.
10-07-2008, 07:25 AM
#6
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Man I'd love to have that woody...There is also one of the older full size jeep trucks by my school that is in mint condition for sale..Man I would love to have it but wow they want a lot for it..
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11-01-2008, 06:49 PM
#13
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Year: '97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How good are those 33's working with 2.5" of lift? The thing looks good. I see you did some trimming. Did you have to do a lot? Do the tire rub the control arms much with the stock wheel/offset?
11-02-2008, 05:14 PM
#14
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Trail was ajax upper and lower, and jackhandle. Fun trails, was a good place to see whether bump stopping/trimming needed additional massaging.
33x10.50's have been working out great on the 2.5" lift.
Up front I had to remove the plastic inner fender liner, and bend/pound the pinch seem over. The tires sill rubbed the entire wheel well. I epoxy'd 2 hockey pucks the to axle spring perches and retained the factory upper bump stops. I also cut sheet meatal back to the outter most part of the meatal flare around the fender opening. Basically, just cut the vertical portion off. I installed adjustable control arms with the 33's in order to move the front axle ahead about 1.5" to clear the bottom of the fender opening.
I had to run down to Ace and pick up some longer steering stop bolts. With the RE arms, and the longer bolts, it still turns tight, about like stock arms with 30's.
Out back I had to trim about 1" off the bottom front and rear wheel opening. I went up/lenghtwise about 3" in the rear, and near 4" in the front of the wheel opening. No bumpstops were required out back. Additionally, I had to pull the ball peen hammer out and stretch the bottom rear of the inner fender out about a 1/2"... only about 1" vertically.
I could definately beifit from longer shocks at this point. Up travel has been limited enough by bump stopping/hockey pucks that I could run a 15.75" collapsed shock lenght... confirmed on rti ramp... it still manages a smidgen over 800rti, but long travle shocks would put it well up over 900rti... approaching the magic 1000.
33's and 4.56's are about as perfect as I could hope for on the street. I did go to a 4:1 terra low... that gearing makes working the true trac's a breeze.
The 33's are so much more capable than the 31's were... I would never have believed it had I not experienced it myself.
Thanks for the interst, and compliments.
33x10.50's have been working out great on the 2.5" lift.
Up front I had to remove the plastic inner fender liner, and bend/pound the pinch seem over. The tires sill rubbed the entire wheel well. I epoxy'd 2 hockey pucks the to axle spring perches and retained the factory upper bump stops. I also cut sheet meatal back to the outter most part of the meatal flare around the fender opening. Basically, just cut the vertical portion off. I installed adjustable control arms with the 33's in order to move the front axle ahead about 1.5" to clear the bottom of the fender opening.
I had to run down to Ace and pick up some longer steering stop bolts. With the RE arms, and the longer bolts, it still turns tight, about like stock arms with 30's.
Out back I had to trim about 1" off the bottom front and rear wheel opening. I went up/lenghtwise about 3" in the rear, and near 4" in the front of the wheel opening. No bumpstops were required out back. Additionally, I had to pull the ball peen hammer out and stretch the bottom rear of the inner fender out about a 1/2"... only about 1" vertically.
I could definately beifit from longer shocks at this point. Up travel has been limited enough by bump stopping/hockey pucks that I could run a 15.75" collapsed shock lenght... confirmed on rti ramp... it still manages a smidgen over 800rti, but long travle shocks would put it well up over 900rti... approaching the magic 1000.
33's and 4.56's are about as perfect as I could hope for on the street. I did go to a 4:1 terra low... that gearing makes working the true trac's a breeze.
The 33's are so much more capable than the 31's were... I would never have believed it had I not experienced it myself.
Thanks for the interst, and compliments.
Last edited by Mike H.; 11-02-2008 at 05:20 PM. Reason: added more info.
