Decided not to drop the oil pan this weekend... I ended up picking up the HP D30 and started prepping it. If you're wondering why I'm doing this, here's a taste of the cancer that's currently on my LP D30



Here's the new axle after I finally got that out of the cargo area by myself... heating and banging out the sway bar studs.



After a good powerwashing...




I'm pumped to get this in, it's all around in much better condition than my current one and parts are interchangeable. Also the stock steering linkage is in better condition than mine so I'll probably use the drag link/track bar and sway bar bushing when I do the swap. Next my lovely girl showed me how to clean a Jeep. I think I might need another lesson!

 

Alright, after a little time off we're gearing up for phase 2 which has a few moving parts to it. I'm outlining below for my own sanity, doesn't seem like a lot but balancing all this in ones mind gets exhausting... Goal is to get all this done in the next couple months before the snow hits so I can get a nice coat of Fluid Film on my underside =]

Phase 2a

1. Front End Swap LP>HP D30
2. Install Control Arm Drop Brackets (decided against install)
3. Install Coil Spacers to even out RE Lift (still want to do this but looks like it will involve a pitman arm drop and yet another alignment, putting it off...)

Phase 2b
1. Install SYE on Donor 231
2. Swap TC's
3.Install new TC Shift Linkage
4. Use Front Driveshaft in Rear

Phase 2c

1. Rear end swap D35>C8.25 (still need to clean up axle and figure out e-brake)
2. Shim (assume the degree will be the same as D35?)
3. Keep front DS in the rear and hope it works for both axles...

Phase 2d

FLUID FILM!

That's the plan. There doesn't seem to be a lot of confidence inducing info about the front driveshaft hack. I'm only worried about the different pinion lengths on my two axles as well as my lift height which is estimated around ~4"

Any tips or feedback appreciated!

 

Nice! Keep it up!

 

as for 8.25 brakes use jeep liberty rear disks and brackets and calipers since they too have the 8.25 they can all be had cheap at the salvage yard also while your there pick up a cast iron rear diff cover off a newer dodge durango they are beefy and can be had for about 10 bux and if you look around enuff find the proportion valve on a zj and grab the guts out of it to make yours right after switching to disk brakes

 

Thanks for the specifics on the Liberty. Honestly at this point the only thing that will have me doing the conversion before winter is if I need to do more than just replace the shoes on the drums. It's just getting to crunch time with the season as well as with $$ so it may be a spring or next summer project. Rome wasn't built in a day. Nice tip about those cast iron covers too! What constitutes as a newer Durango?

 

 

Did you find out the source of the rough idle? My 97 ZJ idles a little rough.. I was looking into doing new distributor cap, cables, plugs, and Accel ignition upgrade.

 

I haven't although I'm just attributing the "rough idle" to me being new to the 4.0 and it running a little rougher than I'm used to. I'm sure if I replaced the IAC things would be much smoother. I think tune up items are always a good idea if they are in question but if that doesn't solve it you'll need to break out the multimeter

Update: I replaced the IAC and it didn't help lol

 

This weekend I got to test out my new 36mm socket =] This was my first time pulling the axles out and although I didn't plan on it I also knocked the steering knuckles off eventually. They suffer from the grooves from the calipers so I'm hoping my current axle has good donors to throw on in their stead. In doing so I found out the lower balljoints are both bad as well as one wheel bearing and hub assembly. Going to get new lower BJs and will use whichever wheel hub assemblies are in the best shape.


Before photo featuring my finger...



Hitting it with the flap disc where I can reach.. I wasn't able to get it nearly as clean as I thought. If I were to do this again I would only wire wheel it... I took off too much rubber coating that was in good shape.



Looking nice (primer coats not pictured)



I'm sure many of you can relate to this

 

Currently netting about 4.25" of lift from my RE 3.5" Super-ride. Watching nickintimefilms when he put the control arm drop brackets on he needed to also install drop/relocation sway bar brackets. Shot in the dark but does anyone know if this is going to be the case for me? Rather be prepared at the time of install

...just realized I am going against RC's recommendation that Drop Brackets should only be used on lifts 4.5" or more. I think I'll just add a coil spacer up front and I have another hole to add an inch on the rear shackles

 

 

NE XJs need love too

 

Have you looked into Iron rock offroads dana 30 truss? just grind off the old mounts and weld on.

 

I have but frankly I'm still figuring out the balance between "trail capable" and "daily driver". I'm working up to more trail specific modifications but until I get some real experience off-road I'm not focusing my funds and time into those right now. For now there is plenty to do to improve road performance. Also... welding is not on my resume yet which is a bit of a blocker. I'm hoping that will change in the near future since I'm pretty committed to doing everything myself and that's going to take patience.

 

It's been a busy couple of days here's a quick tease of what's been going on with BB...