Lemans

Once the PM left, things got done quickly again and we had the drivers side looking like photo 1 in almost no time at all. The old control arms were 15.75" bushing ctr > ctr, we set the new adjustables at 16.25" for the install. We noted the original "clock" positioning of the spindles before we dropped the axle out so we could guesstimate the replacement setup well enough to drive it to the alignment shop without killing anyone or hurting a set of tires. We will adjust the whole thing once the UCA's arrive and get installed later in the week.

A few jack adjustments and 5 mins had us to photo 2 right after that.
We looked over the new Rubicon Express Quick Disconnect Link Pin set, and test fitted the components while we wound things down. It looks like a really nice setup once you get it right in your head how it goes together. Another good investment from the looks of it.

Once we had things wound down, we decided that was enough for the day, and went in and had a great steak dinner (I try to feed my helpers well).

More is the next day or two as the build continues, thanks for the interest!

bluedragon436

Build is looking good!! I can't wait to install my 4.5" spring lift... althoght mine will be a bit harder than yours as mine has been a NE Coastal Jeep it's whole life... but hey whats modding without a few hangups... What size tires are you looking at running with your lift?? You might have said and I just missed it. (NVM I am a complete tard... I read that in the first post and completely spaced out about what size tires you had posted about using..).. Can't wait to see this build as it progresses!!

gpXJ

Awesome build and amazing documentation! Can't wait to see it done. Keep it coming!

THENNING

cant wait to see finished ! have to let us know how ya like that rustys lift...and if ya dont mind me asking what did that run you price wise?

Lemans

We are going to run 33x12.50x15 BFG M/T KM2's on Dick Cepek DC-2 15x10 wheels. I pushed the button on the order yesterday, though it sounds like it'll be a month or so before they show up... :-(

Lemans

My Rusty's bill ran a total of ~$1750 (including shipping from AL > WA), but I did a few things to drive that price over his advertised kit price:

• I upgraded the brake line relocation kit to full replacement extended steel braid lines (+40?)
• I upgraded the 1" TC drop spacers to the 1" drop x-member (+105)
• I upgraded the LCA's to Forged Steel flex ends (+40)
• I bought the matching TC Skid Plate (+120)
• I bought UCA's with upgrade to Forged Steel flex ends (+189)
• I bought his steering box brace (+50 on sale)
• I bought both sizes of spanner wrench for the forged flex ends for maint. (+40)

All items were shipped promptly, zero delays. No missing parts of any type in my orders so far. Intelligent design and high quality fab work on all parts. 100% happy with everything except the u-bolts being a shade too large for my shackle plates, which is just the way it works sometimes.

I've done this type of work in the past, and the directions assume you know how to do the work you are undertaking, and are more about general steps to complete and don't forget this or that. They are not specific to the minor details of fit and assembly.
When I called Rusty to talk about the u-bolts and to check on a pair of spacer brackets I couldn't figure out (they turned out to be for relocating the Anti-sway bar but I don't need them) he was helpful and curteous.

Hope that helps!

JakeWI

looks real good.

rjxj

Looking good.

SGT ABN XJ

I think you did a great job showing your work through all the pictures and comments, and the fact that your Dad was in on the fun makes it a great read..
Can't wait to see the new wheels and more build up..

Lemans

I appreciate the comments and support folks.

I've waited for 20 years for the right combination of location and prosperity re-enter this hobby and build a rig the way I've wanted since I bought my '71 CJ-5 and modded it on no budget in the late 80's. I am liking the XJ as an upgrade to that CJ with the additional space and upgraded technology that 27 years has brought to the components and design.

Winding down a bit tonight, not as much work done with the temps climbing out to 100 deg F today. Shop was pretty hot and we don't want to start re-installing any more of the front end until the UCA's and Steering box brace arrive.

Build post coming in an hour or three... :-)

Lemans

It's gotten very hot since we started the build, with temps climbing from around 80 deg on Monday to 101 deg today. Between waiting on parts to arrive and the heat things have slowed considerably. Amazing how quickly a hot shop saps your motivation...

Yesterday we got the new RE Quick Disconnect Links laid out and installed. Photo 1 shows most of the kit with the fasteners already painted up and ready to go. In photo 2 you can see Dad drilling out the retainer bolt hole.

We found that removing the battery box made mounting a lot easier on the passenger side retainer, and since I need to do new cable ends and am swapping in a new Optima Red Top anyway... Out she goes
Photo 3 shows the freshly painted bolt head in the engine compartment just under the battery box seat.

Photo 4 shows the cleaned out battery box with the various fasteners. The sensor here cracked me up, I couldn't find it on the wiring diagram. Our best guess was that maybe it was a roll-over sensor. Anyone know for sure?

Photo 5 shows off the scrubbed front shock boots and battery box. I'm a firm believer in cleaning up parts while I have them off the vehicle. I will clean and paint the rest of the battery box hardware before I'm done

Lemans

The first photo here is the battery before I tore into it. Not hard to see why I am replacing ends :-p

You can see in the photo that the rubberized top retaining bracket is corroding the steel underneath. After I removed it I beat a large pile of acidic powder off of it and rinsed it under running water. Then I gave it a soak bath in water mixed with all the baking soda it would hold. An hour later I dumped that nasty mess and rinsed and repeated the treatment again. Much less **** nastys this time, so a final rinse and into the sun to bake for 4 hours to remove all the moisture trapped inside.

In the end I'll paint all the metal I can get to and call it good for stopping the corrosion. I'm hoping the gel battery will have less acidic vapor and the corrosion will be reduced or eliminated.

The next two shots show the newly installed disco links attached normally and retained while disconnected. I am very happy with the design and quality of the kit from RE.

Today we are working on the x-member swap, TC Skid install prep, and the SYE kit install. Heat drove us in the house for some late lunch so I took a few minutes to catch up the thread.

More photos and details coming.

SGT ABN XJ

The cheapest way to fight corrision on the top of any battery is to rtv a penny near each post..The copper in the penny will attract all corrision leaving the terminals clean.........Works awesome!!!!!!!!!!

truckntractorhick

^ hmm... that would make sense! ill try this to!

rjxj

Using an older (date) penny is better. Newer ones are copper coated. Not sure of the years, but there is a test.

For those of you guys that like to torch things, take a couple pennies, one new and one old, then torch them. The newer one (copper coated) will shrivel up.