razor02097

This is a continuation of a previous thread. About 11 months ago I started a project. The idea was to have a glorified tool truck...

This has changed.

Yeah I still want to toss some tools in the back but I no longer race and I no longer wish to build a support vehicle. This thread will be the down and dirty (comments welcome) it will be about getting things done!



Now.... catching up to today...

Here is the victim... My daily driver

1998 Jeep Cherokee Limited.
Engine: 4L petrol
Transmission: AW-4
Transfer Case:NP242
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle:C 8.25"
Tires:P235/7R15










LIFT






On the left is the stock Cherokee spring. The right is the GC spring.

The rear has stock leaves + 1.5" shackles with GC springs and the 1.5" spacer the front matches the back





Added a side exit exhaust.... I know there are some people that don't like it and think it will get smashed during any light wheeling trip... well the truth is I needed an exhaust, the over axle pipe wasn't available at the time and total cost came in around $25

razor02097

Plans.... plans.... hmmm....

ZJ steering linkage
Powertrax no slip locker for the rear
New steering knuckles and calipers
AIT relocation

Hmmmmm......

Disk brake conversion for the rear
Replace carpet with something more useful.... bed liner
Slip yoke elimination
????
????

razor02097

This arrived yesterday!





OOO piece of candy!

razor02097

Going to do disk brake conversion and locker at the same time. Soooooo I've checked around local salvage yards... Most actually recycle the rotors and calipers.... None will actually just sell the backing plates

The best deal was a complete axle for $373 out of wrecked grand Cherokee... Might be a great deal if I needed the whole axle.

Well I figured it up...

Parking brake hardware $10
Parking brake shoes $20
Brake pads $33
Rotors $50
Rear brake lines $43

Total $156
+Axle $373

total = $529 + tax = $563.39
This is assuming the brake calipers don't need to be rebuilt/replaced...


Instead I've opted to buy a complete brake conversion kit... Total cost = $500.73 shipped to my door.




I figure that even if I sold the rear - backing plates and all brake hardware for $100... I would rather spend the extra $40 to save a lot of time, hassle and work.





As for the project.... still waiting on parts

razor02097

More parts arrived yesterday!

Complete ZJ steering linkage



Part#'s
ES2079S (tie rod adjustment sleeve)
ES3096 (tie rod end right outer)
DS1312 (tie rod end right inner)

Total for all parts shipped from Autozone.com was about $78

razor02097

Okay so I didn't get as much work done as I wanted.... when I installed the rear brakes I found the line going to the axle was leaking... I ended up replacing the whole line. I ended up using the soft lines from a late model f body to go to the calipers. I have pictures but didn't have time last night to upload them.

I almost installed the locker but in my frustration and impatience I broke the paddle spacer. A word to the wise..... if the cross shaft doesn't slide in by hand SOMETHING IS WRONG DONT USE A HAMMER!! Im such an idiot..... a replacement part is available.... another $68 down the drain! Completely my fault though.

EDIT:

BTW the part# for this part in case someone else needs it is 624014SEH2 A quick google search showed Summitracing had them in stock.

brown bomber

Looks nice I don't no if you'd rly need the sye kit if your not planning on doing a bigger lift. I hav a 4.5 w/o a sye with no vibs

razor02097

thanks


I was actually planning the sye first so I can lift in the future.

razor02097

Okay so here is my official "Brake upgrade/repair" post.

I was planning on doing the rear brake conversion later but the rear drums started knocking again as well as a leak in the rear brake line... I ended up having to replace the line from the proportioning valve to the rear soft line then from the soft line out...

Here is what I started with... Old, clunky....drums.


Say bye bye to the drums!



Next I have to pull the axle shafts to get the old backing plates off...




Axle shafts out...



Now I had to disconnect the wheel cylinder line and unbolt the backing plate...



Then hammer out the old studs...


Now install the new backing plate


Installed the E brake hardware then axle shafts, spiders, cross shaft and bolt. Installed cover and filled with gear oil. The E brake is a manual drum setup but I can live with that... The instructions where pretty vague... one thing they didn't mention is you have to remove these clips from the backing plate or the brake pads won't go on...


installed rotor and bolted on caliper.


After bleeding the brakes and adjusting the e brake I went out to bed in the new brakes. Then snapped some pics with my phone of my completed work.




No more clicking, no more clunking... no more grabbing... and no more leaking! These brakes are pretty sweet.

ct67_72

Where did the rear disk kit come from? that price is pretty good. For that I would actually buy one rather than mess around with junk yard stuff

razor02097

I got it from Rusty's Offroad. Although I couldn't use the ebrake lines. The soft lines that came with it where kind of short. I ended up using stock soft lines from my 1994 camaro from when I converted to braided stainless.

1ABrian

wow nice progress man. Great pics and conversion.

razor02097

Wow... Summit Racing really pulled through... they got the order out the door yesterday and guess what was at my home today when I got home from work?


Needless to say... I really wanted to get it installed but wasn't 100% confident I would get it in tonight... However I stopped whining and picked up my spanner to get to work...


First getting prepped... Jack up Jeep, place stands and wheel chocks.


Wheels, calipers, rotors and diff cover off...(how lucky is it I parked it in that carrier position?) 5/16" socket gets the bolt out. and spider gears come off. Push both axles in the C clips fall out, pull axles out a little and remove main gears.


As per the instructions install ring gear side drive section, push axle in and place C clip. NOTE: THIS IS FROM RICHMOND GEAR! YOU DON'T USE THE THRUST WASHERS ON THE NO SLIP SYSTEM ONLY THE LOCK RIGHT! If you install the thrust washers you WON'T get the drive sections in. There just won't be enough room.


Load saddle springs with grease and pop them into the center drive sections like the instructions say... A few gripes with the instructions now....

The installation manual says to install the driver's side paddle so that it is facing away from you... this is all in the matter of perspective... If your head is facing the rear of the car and wheeled under the axle then this is right... However if your head is facing the front of the car and wheeled under the fuel tank then it isn't right... There is only one way to install the darn thing... Why can't they just say the paddle should face the rear bumper?

Anyway I'm rambling... You need to install it like this...


Now put the second assembly in so the paddle faces toward the pinion. There is only 1 way the stupid thing goes in... A tip... After it is installed check the alignment of the assembly by putting in the cross shaft. It should slide in easily by hand... like this.


Afterward you can install the passenger C clip by pushing the axle in and dropping it in the slot.... Yeah right... I ended up fighting the stupid thing for about 20 minutes!

I don't know why... Oh wait I do....

Because everything else went fairly smooth... Okay next is another deviation from the destructions... they tell you to install the drive springs before the cross shaft. I see no reason to because if something is wrong you will have to get them out again...

INSTEAD...

Install the cross shaft and verify the alignment of the paddles and drive sections. Make sure you use locktite on the cross shaft bolt!


After you do that you can rotate the carrier to install the springs. Then check the function. It is explained in the instructions how to do it but if you are alone it is difficult but not impossible.

1. Install the brakes and wheels.
2. On a creeper roll on your back under the car head facing the diff.
3. With your right arm rotate the driver's side tire clockwise as you look at it. (as the wheel would turn if the Jeep is going forward)
4. With your left arm rotate the passenger tire counter clockwise as you look at it. (as the wheel would turn if the Jeep was backing up)
5. The passenger wheel should unlock and start to rotate.
6. Now try to rotate the passenger tire clockwise it should lock again.
7. Keep holding the passenger tire in the clockwise position and rotate the drivers side tire counter clockwise.
8. The driver's side wheel should unlock and rotate.
9. Rotate the driver's side tire clockwise it should lock again.

If all is well in never never land, put the diff cover back on with some sealant and/or gasket and fill with gear oil. (painting cover is optional but recommended)


NOTE: I never said anything about using a hammer... when installing the locker a hammer WILL break parts... I learned that the hard way... please learn from my mistake if you ever have to install a powertrax no slip. Don't get impatient and hammer the cross shaft. You will be buying 1 or 2 new paddle spacers at $60 each!

Finally! The locker is in! I went to test it a little. I definitely feel it back there... Very different from the open carrier. Although it is VERY quiet! Almost silent unless you mash the gas right out of a corner. Then you get a firm "clank" but not much more drama.

It tells you to break it in for like 50 miles or something like that... as in drive it normally and not beat the **** out of it. It will get plenty broken in when I drive it to work the rest of the week!

razor02097

Thank you

razor02097

After work today I tested the locker...the mud was like pudding... this was about as far as I will push until I get some proper tires.

Especially with nobody to winch my dd out if I got stuck ...