97 XJ "The Black Lemon"
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Newton, New Jersey
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 (242) HO, Bored TB, SS Header, Magnaflow & Dynomax exhaust
97 XJ "The Black Lemon"
So I figured it was time to put together a build thread for this thing my wife has adorned the Black Lemon, my 1997 Jeep Cherokee SE.
So I looked around for quite some time searching for a Cherokee to work on and have some fun with. I ended up finding this 97 with 5" of lift and 33" tires already on it. I took a good look at it and determined that it was never really wheeled and was kept as a street queen.
Did the normal basic maintenance when I buy a used car, rotate and balance the tires and a tune up, cap rotor, wires and plugs.
One of the first Mods that I saw I was going to have to do was extend the stock front brake lines. They were stretching real bad a full lock let alone with the front suspension cycled.
So I got myself a set of JKS 22" steel braided lines for the front.
I drove the jeep around for some time and right when I decided that I need some better stopping power my drivers side rear wheel cylinder decided to pop.
[IMG=http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6930/005breaks.jpg][/IMG]
So this was a great tome to repair and replace what was necessary to get me to stop better. It was a good time while the front brakes were off to tackle the front hub bearing as well. so New slotted brake rotors, rear drums, hawk pads and shoes, rear break hardware kit and wheel cylinders. Now she stops on a dime.
So now that I could stop I wanted to be able to flex a bit more. So I picked up a set of adjustable sway bar disconnects from JKS. I also decided clean up the sway bar and to replace the worn out sway bar mount bushings with a nice set of Daysatr polyurethane ones.
Quick shot of me maxing out my flex to check clearances.
So now it was time to address some of the drive-line vibrations that come with lifting a vehicle. I ordered a rugged ridge slip yoke eliminator kit and a junkyard front Cherokee drive shaft. I rebuild the front shaft with a cardan ball and seal kit and all new universals. After a little help with the install she drives down the highway nice and smooth.
So after driving it for some time again I ended up with a slight misfire and a check engine code for the first cylinder. After running a bunch of tests I determined one of the exhaust valves in the head was bad. I found a place online that deals with re-manufactured heads for a good price so it was time for some time in the garage swapping parts out. A new head, water pump thermostat, thermostat housing and all new hoses.
While the intake manifold was out I thought it was a good time to change out the old deteriorating engine mounts for a set of Daystar mounts.
The engine ran well for a little while but I think with the new water pump it was a bit more than the engine was used to flowing. On my birthday the block started to leak coolant from behind the bell housing. i determined that the leak was either coming from a crack or more likely the expansion plug back there was leaking. So I bought myself a hoist and a stand to take some more time in the garage and go over the entire block, inside and out.
And as I thought a leaky freeze plug
empty hole
measured all the tolerances on the journals and then checked them again and even a third time.
all was well within tolerance and back together with new bearings and double checked with plastigauge
New timing chain and sprockets.
cleaned up the oil pan and made some more clearance for the heavy duty oil pump.
Spent another week degreaseing and prepping the block for a little color. The AMC black is OK but I like to be able to easily trace back a leak so I went with HEMI red
Had some time to clean up the intake manifold before it went back on
went out and got a 304 stainless header to replace the old manifold, and behind it a new Walker down pipe, Magnafolw cat and a Dynomax cat back system.
I had some time to bore out my throttle body to 60mm on a Bridgeport then clean it up before it went back on top of the intake manifold.
Stock 55mm on the left and bored 60mm on the right
all back home
Great throttle response now and awesome pickup. I should be good for another 100K
It was time I added a CB and antenna to stay in contact with my fellow wheelers. Ordered a 3' Firestick, a door jamb mount and a Midland radio.
I need to add tow and recovery points to my XJ so I looked at a bunch of options but when JCR had their black Friday sale I couldn't resist and ended op buying some beef and recovery points.
Stage 3 rock sliders
I used some sand paper and break clean to prep them and then sprayed them down with some self etching primer. after the second coat of primer dried I hit it up with a few layers of truck bed coating. I really like the way the finish turned out.
and mounted up
JCR prerunner bumper with 2" receiver lean forward hoop and uni-frame tie in brackets. Prepped and finished the same way as my sliders.
Removed the stock bumper and relocated the vacuum canister up into the engine bay.
bolted up the tie in brackets and then it was time to cut the TJ flares and remove the inner fender lower braces.
All mocked up ready to tighten all the bolts
So this is how she sits as of now. More armor to come shortly.
So I looked around for quite some time searching for a Cherokee to work on and have some fun with. I ended up finding this 97 with 5" of lift and 33" tires already on it. I took a good look at it and determined that it was never really wheeled and was kept as a street queen.
Did the normal basic maintenance when I buy a used car, rotate and balance the tires and a tune up, cap rotor, wires and plugs.
One of the first Mods that I saw I was going to have to do was extend the stock front brake lines. They were stretching real bad a full lock let alone with the front suspension cycled.
So I got myself a set of JKS 22" steel braided lines for the front.
I drove the jeep around for some time and right when I decided that I need some better stopping power my drivers side rear wheel cylinder decided to pop.
[IMG=http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6930/005breaks.jpg][/IMG]
So this was a great tome to repair and replace what was necessary to get me to stop better. It was a good time while the front brakes were off to tackle the front hub bearing as well. so New slotted brake rotors, rear drums, hawk pads and shoes, rear break hardware kit and wheel cylinders. Now she stops on a dime.
So now that I could stop I wanted to be able to flex a bit more. So I picked up a set of adjustable sway bar disconnects from JKS. I also decided clean up the sway bar and to replace the worn out sway bar mount bushings with a nice set of Daysatr polyurethane ones.
Quick shot of me maxing out my flex to check clearances.
So now it was time to address some of the drive-line vibrations that come with lifting a vehicle. I ordered a rugged ridge slip yoke eliminator kit and a junkyard front Cherokee drive shaft. I rebuild the front shaft with a cardan ball and seal kit and all new universals. After a little help with the install she drives down the highway nice and smooth.
So after driving it for some time again I ended up with a slight misfire and a check engine code for the first cylinder. After running a bunch of tests I determined one of the exhaust valves in the head was bad. I found a place online that deals with re-manufactured heads for a good price so it was time for some time in the garage swapping parts out. A new head, water pump thermostat, thermostat housing and all new hoses.
While the intake manifold was out I thought it was a good time to change out the old deteriorating engine mounts for a set of Daystar mounts.
The engine ran well for a little while but I think with the new water pump it was a bit more than the engine was used to flowing. On my birthday the block started to leak coolant from behind the bell housing. i determined that the leak was either coming from a crack or more likely the expansion plug back there was leaking. So I bought myself a hoist and a stand to take some more time in the garage and go over the entire block, inside and out.
And as I thought a leaky freeze plug
empty hole
measured all the tolerances on the journals and then checked them again and even a third time.
all was well within tolerance and back together with new bearings and double checked with plastigauge
New timing chain and sprockets.
cleaned up the oil pan and made some more clearance for the heavy duty oil pump.
Spent another week degreaseing and prepping the block for a little color. The AMC black is OK but I like to be able to easily trace back a leak so I went with HEMI red
Had some time to clean up the intake manifold before it went back on
went out and got a 304 stainless header to replace the old manifold, and behind it a new Walker down pipe, Magnafolw cat and a Dynomax cat back system.
I had some time to bore out my throttle body to 60mm on a Bridgeport then clean it up before it went back on top of the intake manifold.
Stock 55mm on the left and bored 60mm on the right
all back home
Great throttle response now and awesome pickup. I should be good for another 100K
It was time I added a CB and antenna to stay in contact with my fellow wheelers. Ordered a 3' Firestick, a door jamb mount and a Midland radio.
I need to add tow and recovery points to my XJ so I looked at a bunch of options but when JCR had their black Friday sale I couldn't resist and ended op buying some beef and recovery points.
Stage 3 rock sliders
I used some sand paper and break clean to prep them and then sprayed them down with some self etching primer. after the second coat of primer dried I hit it up with a few layers of truck bed coating. I really like the way the finish turned out.
and mounted up
JCR prerunner bumper with 2" receiver lean forward hoop and uni-frame tie in brackets. Prepped and finished the same way as my sliders.
Removed the stock bumper and relocated the vacuum canister up into the engine bay.
bolted up the tie in brackets and then it was time to cut the TJ flares and remove the inner fender lower braces.
All mocked up ready to tighten all the bolts
So this is how she sits as of now. More armor to come shortly.
#3
Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Newton, New Jersey
Posts: 84
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 (242) HO, Bored TB, SS Header, Magnaflow & Dynomax exhaust
Thanks, future plans are to get some more armor under her this winter I have to change out the diff fluids and I have 4XDoctor diff guards for the front and rear, and I need a transfer case skid. Then I'm hoping to do cromolly shafts, gears and lockers next summer.
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#8
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My jaw just kept dropping lower and lower as I read! lol This is one of the best builds that I've ran across in a REALLY LONG TIME maybe even ever! I can't wait to see were you take this thing. My XJ will look like yours one day, just not any time soon hahah
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Newton, New Jersey
Posts: 84
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 (242) HO, Bored TB, SS Header, Magnaflow & Dynomax exhaust
#11
Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Newton, New Jersey
Posts: 84
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 (242) HO, Bored TB, SS Header, Magnaflow & Dynomax exhaust
Nothing big but picked up a 2" receiver license plate mount. I didn't want to carry 2 hitch pins around so I had to re-drill the hole from 1/2" to 5/8" and also move the hole back so that it fit correctly in the bumper.
I also added some cheap 55w halogens to see better at night. I would like to change them out in the future some time for a nice set of LED's or HID's but these will work for now.
I also added some cheap 55w halogens to see better at night. I would like to change them out in the future some time for a nice set of LED's or HID's but these will work for now.