2001 silver bullet build
#31
He's 15,, and getting his learners shortly.
He knows it is going to be 6-9 month project,, especially once spring hits and kayak/fishing season hits.
I have struggled with a lot of the detail and steps we are putting into it. on one hand I want everything on the body 110% and we are taking a lot of extra time with it,, or the other hand I am like "he'll be 16 when he's driving it, it will be luck to last 6 month"
I have a rust free Green 2000 sitting in the drive, it goes in the shop as soon as his is done,, and he KNOWS he is helping with mine
He knows it is going to be 6-9 month project,, especially once spring hits and kayak/fishing season hits.
I have struggled with a lot of the detail and steps we are putting into it. on one hand I want everything on the body 110% and we are taking a lot of extra time with it,, or the other hand I am like "he'll be 16 when he's driving it, it will be luck to last 6 month"
I have a rust free Green 2000 sitting in the drive, it goes in the shop as soon as his is done,, and he KNOWS he is helping with mine
That's awesome
By the way I love that 2x6 tube for rockers I want that on mine too. Are you tacking them into frame underneath at all? Or just welding to pinch?
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
We are reinforcing the original door sill with 1/4" metal, and a 1/8" angle will be welded to the new inner panel, the 2x6 will weld to these. at this time we do not intend to tie to the "frame"
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Slow going with his school work and other projects.
Anyhow, the Sliders were his 1st real welding project,, had to grind a few welds out and re-do, but he is getting there.
Hope to sand blast and prime the underside (inside the rocker cavity), then weld the rockers in the coming weeks or so
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: STL
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thats awesome! Looks good to me other than high school i learned to weld at 32 so he's doing great in my opinion. Very cool very fun. Keep it up!
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It has been a while, we have been making slow progress, but kayak fishing has been taking a lot of out time.
I'll get some updated pictures up
I'll get some updated pictures up
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Trial fitting new inner rocker panel
cutting down new inner rocker
inner rocker cut down
welding angle to inner rocker panel
welding in new inner rocker
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I did not like how the stock width 2x6 rocker was not even front to back, due to the taper of the XJ Body
Soo, we ripped the 2x6 down on a taper, then welded a cap back on (2" band iron)
Rockers all welded up and painted
Trial fit
Nice even reveal
The 2x6 resting on the angle.
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No we aint died,, either raining everyday or hot as heck and needed to sand blast.
Anyhow, pulled the rear axle out,, lots of PR blaster for a week prior, broke all 4 top shock bolts off.
As we have to do some rear frame rebuilding, decided to remove the rear cargo area floor pan to give good access for repairs and a sand blasting.
Sand blaster the entire rear frame/etc, them primed with Zinc/Chromate.
Just got a new 16ga Pan & Box brake,, ready to fab repair pieces for the frame and the "cut" lower 1/4ers.
We had prior trimmed the rear wheel openings, I did not want the "hack and fold" Job.
We cut the opening above the spot welds, then re-welded the inner and outer sheet metal using the ever handy Harbor Freight spot welder.
I latterly put a 100+ spot welds, to the point they where almost touching.
Next up is the rear frame repair/strengthening, weld new shock mount nuts on, then weld the pan back in, then hose the area with Zinc/Chromate primer inside and out with the wand spray gun.
And that will wrap up the "body/frame work, then its axle build time
Pan removed
Rear frame rusted from aftermarket hitch install
Pan removed
wheel wells and rear 1/4s cut
Sand blasted and primed
Blasted and primed
Blasted and primed
Blasted and primed
the pinch welder
Wheel well re-welded
And primed
Anyhow, pulled the rear axle out,, lots of PR blaster for a week prior, broke all 4 top shock bolts off.
As we have to do some rear frame rebuilding, decided to remove the rear cargo area floor pan to give good access for repairs and a sand blasting.
Sand blaster the entire rear frame/etc, them primed with Zinc/Chromate.
Just got a new 16ga Pan & Box brake,, ready to fab repair pieces for the frame and the "cut" lower 1/4ers.
We had prior trimmed the rear wheel openings, I did not want the "hack and fold" Job.
We cut the opening above the spot welds, then re-welded the inner and outer sheet metal using the ever handy Harbor Freight spot welder.
I latterly put a 100+ spot welds, to the point they where almost touching.
Next up is the rear frame repair/strengthening, weld new shock mount nuts on, then weld the pan back in, then hose the area with Zinc/Chromate primer inside and out with the wand spray gun.
And that will wrap up the "body/frame work, then its axle build time
Pan removed
Rear frame rusted from aftermarket hitch install
Pan removed
wheel wells and rear 1/4s cut
Sand blasted and primed
Blasted and primed
Blasted and primed
Blasted and primed
the pinch welder
Wheel well re-welded
And primed
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It has been a while since an update,, progress is slow and unsteady. But making an effort to jump start it.
All rust repair has been completed, all new metal in, primed and painted (excluding final exterior paint)
Ended up stripping engine bay and painting,, mixed roughly 2 parts Rustoleum Smoke gray and 1 part rusoleum Aluminum.
Welded in front frame/bumper/steering box plates.
treated and painted interior of front rails.
Rebuilt and installed 3.73 HP D30 front with "Core 4x4" adjustable upper and lowers.
As soon as I finish a complete rebuild of the HVAC box, the bash is going in,
Swapping in NEW brake booster, MC, and all hard lines.
All rust repair has been completed, all new metal in, primed and painted (excluding final exterior paint)
Ended up stripping engine bay and painting,, mixed roughly 2 parts Rustoleum Smoke gray and 1 part rusoleum Aluminum.
Welded in front frame/bumper/steering box plates.
treated and painted interior of front rails.
Rebuilt and installed 3.73 HP D30 front with "Core 4x4" adjustable upper and lowers.
As soon as I finish a complete rebuild of the HVAC box, the bash is going in,
Swapping in NEW brake booster, MC, and all hard lines.
The following users liked this post:
thetastelingers (09-03-2019)
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I ordered a pressure pot gun with fan tip and 3 wands,, and a 5 gal bucket of NHOIL rust proofing https://nhoilundercoating.com/
I will be spraying it into the frames from front to rear, and coating the under side.
I will be spraying it into the frames from front to rear, and coating the under side.