1997 XJ on FULL WIDTHS and 44's
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Hey man, you got it together, and in record time too. I would like to add a couple of observations and suggestions here.
First, that is a Dana Powerlock in the rear. Too bad it is welded, it might be worth some money. But they are very strong and can be played with to stiffen them up to work like a Detroit True Trac.
The next thing is your death wobble. First of all, does it happen when you hit a bump or just all by itself? If it is when you hit a bump, then there are a couple of things you can do to cure it. Normally, conventional wisdom is that you don't need one with front leaves. However there are exceptions. When a rig is lifted as high as yours is the drag link is at quite an angle. This will force the wheels out when you hit a bump, otherwise known as bump steer. However, if something is a little loose, then when the wheels come back they go a little too far and you set up harmonic motion at that speed. To cure this I would suggest two things. First shorten your front shackle and extend your bracket downward. Then put a piece of flat bar between the shackle sides to stabilize it. Then put your track bar back on. But make sure it is exactly the same length and angle as your drag link. It needs to form a parallelogram when you connect the corners. But this will limit articulation. So a common thing is to make a telescoping track or pan hard bar. You have a rod, or square shaft inside a tube that is split on the end. You undo a bolt on the clamp and then it can change length. You can get some stuff at farm stores for pto drive shafts to do this with. Then it will be more streetable. Also, make sure your steering box is adjusted tightly, and well braced.
I see you are starting to beef up your steering, good idea. You will be doing more of that type of stuff
First, that is a Dana Powerlock in the rear. Too bad it is welded, it might be worth some money. But they are very strong and can be played with to stiffen them up to work like a Detroit True Trac.
The next thing is your death wobble. First of all, does it happen when you hit a bump or just all by itself? If it is when you hit a bump, then there are a couple of things you can do to cure it. Normally, conventional wisdom is that you don't need one with front leaves. However there are exceptions. When a rig is lifted as high as yours is the drag link is at quite an angle. This will force the wheels out when you hit a bump, otherwise known as bump steer. However, if something is a little loose, then when the wheels come back they go a little too far and you set up harmonic motion at that speed. To cure this I would suggest two things. First shorten your front shackle and extend your bracket downward. Then put a piece of flat bar between the shackle sides to stabilize it. Then put your track bar back on. But make sure it is exactly the same length and angle as your drag link. It needs to form a parallelogram when you connect the corners. But this will limit articulation. So a common thing is to make a telescoping track or pan hard bar. You have a rod, or square shaft inside a tube that is split on the end. You undo a bolt on the clamp and then it can change length. You can get some stuff at farm stores for pto drive shafts to do this with. Then it will be more streetable. Also, make sure your steering box is adjusted tightly, and well braced.
I see you are starting to beef up your steering, good idea. You will be doing more of that type of stuff
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: venice FL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
thanx for the info man i already made a new trac bar thats level with my steering and as for the wobble its only at 40 mph for a slight second now and its because of my tires i switched um out and it rode like a dream.
tell me how to get a video to work off of photo bucket and ill put one up i know u won't believe me but last night i made the jeep super wide and it rained i a ripped a donut in the middle of the road like it was nothing haha
tell me how to get a video to work off of photo bucket and ill put one up i know u won't believe me but last night i made the jeep super wide and it rained i a ripped a donut in the middle of the road like it was nothing haha
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: venice FL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
speaking of wheel bearings whats the tools needed to do mine i was gona put new ones it this weekend I've never done it before on this type of hub
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
lol You haven't replaced the bearings?
You need this...
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2903383...Types&var=sbar
You can pick it up at most parts stores for less than 20 bucks. I think mine was about $13.
All I can tell you is to be careful trying to pull the inner wheel bearing off the spindle. Don't screw up the spindle. Also, make sure you properly grease the bearings.
You need this...
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2903383...Types&var=sbar
You can pick it up at most parts stores for less than 20 bucks. I think mine was about $13.
All I can tell you is to be careful trying to pull the inner wheel bearing off the spindle. Don't screw up the spindle. Also, make sure you properly grease the bearings.


