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So the rear brakes don't look much better, everything seems at least 100k miles old, and the wheel cylinders are probably original. Here's what they looked like:
The adjustment star hasn't moved in so long it was stuck, I had to soak it in PB Blaster to get it to operate.
Hardware removed, just the wheel cylinder remaining:
New wheel cylinder installed:
New one fit like a charm and only cost $12 each from Advance, quality seems good too. That's as far as I got last night, still need to install all the hardware and then do the other side. Did I mention that I absolutely hate drum brakes??
Got the driver's side drum back together last night. Seriously, whoever invented drum brakes IS THE DEVIL. I get it that drum brakes were important, they were a necessary step in getting to disc brakes, etc. but mother of God they are a pain in the ***. No brake setup should have so many parts, that you SOMEHOW have to hold together while trying to put all the springs and clips on that actually hold it together. *end rant*
Got the driver's side drum back together last night. Seriously, whoever invented drum brakes IS THE DEVIL. I get it that drum brakes were important, they were a necessary step in getting to disc brakes, etc. but mother of God they are a pain in the ***. No brake setup should have so many parts, that you SOMEHOW have to hold together while trying to put all the springs and clips on that actually hold it together. *end rant*
I thought the same about drum brakes until I read that for the new model Tacoma, Toyota went back to rear drum brakes because they claim it improves performance.
Little late for you now but maybe someone else. Do a differential change when you do the brakes and you can pull your C clips, which you have I think, and pull the axles to get them out of the way. Change axle seals and bearings at that time if you want.
Little late for you now but maybe someone else. Do a differential change when you do the brakes and you can pull your C clips, which you have I think, and pull the axles to get them out of the way. Change axle seals and bearings at that time if you want.
I'm enjoying your build. Great job
Funny you mention that, I had actually planned on doing axle seals at least in the front because I thought the pass. side might be leaking some. Not sure why, but I thought the axle seal was near the end of the tube, but after looking it up I realized it sits inside the axle tube right off the differential. And that you have to take the cover off and diff out... So yeah I'll wait another 30k miles until I have to change the fluid again haha
If it's leaking I'll just have to keep topping the fluid up until I change them.
Yesterday was possibly the last 70+ degree day in NJ before winter starts in, so I took full advantage of it and painted my driver's side door. Not sure if I mentioned it, but I bought 2 cans of rattle can base coat in Silverstone Metallic from PaintScratch.com, and one can of 1K clear coat for this purpose.
My doorless (and fenderless) Jeep:
The maroon culprit:
Sanded with 400 grit to scuff up the clearcoat, taped off the window, mirror, and handle. Primed the edges where bare metal was showing.
First coat or 2 of silver:
Final product, this might have been before the clear went on, can't remember:
I'm not sure that it matches entirely, I'm sure the rest of the paint on the Jeep is somewhat faded after 15 years. But hell it's a lot better than having a maroon/red door on a silver jeep!
Funny you mention that, I had actually planned on doing axle seals at least in the front because I thought the pass. side might be leaking some. Not sure why, but I thought the axle seal was near the end of the tube, but after looking it up I realized it sits inside the axle tube right off the differential. And that you have to take the cover off and diff out... So yeah I'll wait another 30k miles until I have to change the fluid again haha
If it's leaking I'll just have to keep topping the fluid up until I change them.
In the rear the bearings and seals are at the hub side. Slide hammer and three whacks and the're out. After you remove the C clips and slide the axles out.
Finally got the rear drums on. Pretty sure I shouldn't have to hit them with a hammer to get them on, but we'll see. Brake shoes were fully seated at the top and the adjustment screw at the bottom was all the way in, still a tight fit. Probably because I bought parts store shoes. Just gonna throw the wheels on and see what happens. Either the wheels will lock up and I'll have to redo the brakes, or they'll actually move and I'll just have to wear them down some.
Also got the drivers seat back in finally. I would have mounted the door back on too but I want to replace the hinge pins, the ones I have seem to have too much play in them. Anyone know why the later model XJ's have different hinges? These are what mine look like:
And what older hinges looked like for reference (this one is obviously broken):
Also got my new rear bump stops installed. When removing what was left of the stock ones, the rear retaining bolt broke on both sides. So when I installed the new ones I put in the front bolt and then tack welded the back to the frame. Whatever.
Really liking the thread and you're making me lean toward putting an older motor in my 2001 cherokee. My only concerns were the intake and exhaust being different. Do you happen to have a build sheet of where you got all the parts you used to install the older motor. Is there anything you would do different now that you've done this? Thanks.
Really liking the thread and you're making me lean toward putting an older motor in my 2001 cherokee. My only concerns were the intake and exhaust being different. Do you happen to have a build sheet of where you got all the parts you used to install the older motor. Is there anything you would do different now that you've done this? Thanks.
I've been meaning to pull together a list of everything I bought, thanks for reminding me. Here we go:
About $200 altogether for the really necessary parts. Closer to $300 the way I did it, plus the cost of getting a good used older engine. There's also things I didn't include like the header wrap I used, metal zip ties for wrap from harbor freight, O2 sensor bungs from ebay, some silicone hose I bought, etc.
The Dorman water pump inlet tube is this guy:
I was just gonna paint mine, but it was way too rusty and this was like $8 new. Also, the Fel-Pro oil filter adapter is just the main O-ring, it doesn't include the other 2 o-rings that are in the adapter. I think Napa sells the right kit for this, or OEM Mopar. I didn't know about the other 2 until after the engine was in, so I'm hoping they don't leak. I also didn't change the rear upper main seal, which I probably should have done. This swap can be done on the dirt cheap, but I went out of my way to replace alot of stuff like the power steering lines, radiator hoses, trans filter, brake lines, steering damper, etc.
The hardest part of the swap was probably the exhaust. The intake from your 2001 will bolt right on, no issues. The exhaust had to be cut, mocked up, grinded down, mocked up, cut, grinded down, mocked up, welded, etc. You get where I'm going? It wasn't super hard, just tedious because it had to be custom fit.
Things I would do differently:
- Cut the exhaust pipe and weld in flanges BEFORE dropping the engine back in
- Make sure your starter is good before re-using it
- If changing the transmission filter/pan gasket, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD do it with the engine out. Getting the dipstick separated from the pan tube was horrific
- Verify all electrical connectors are in good condition, I had frayed wires on the cam position sensor (seen earlier in this thread)
- Take pics of how everything is routed/set up before pulling your engine
For some reason I thought the intake or exhaust wouldn't work due to the smaller ports on later style head. Thanks for the info. Now I gotta make some decisions.
For some reason I thought the intake or exhaust wouldn't work due to the smaller ports on later style head. Thanks for the info. Now I gotta make some decisions.
Intake ports are the same on all the heads, they just changed the shape of the manifold itself. 1999-01 are the best flowing intake design. Exhaust ports on the older heads are larger than the 2000-01 0331 heads. They went from a big round port to smaller oval ones to help the pre-cats heat up faster. So to use an older head you need an aftermarket header, or at least a stock one from the old engine. The one that came with mine was too cracked to use.
Another option is to just find an 02+ 4.0L with an 0331 TUPY head (they fixed the casting problem late in 2002) from a Grand Cherokee or Wrangler. Or get a newer head and put it on an older block.
Pulled off my drums again last night. I had to beat them on with a hammer and I know that isn't right. Everything is installed correctly, I think the parts store shoes were just not right so I ordered a set of Wagner shoes from Rockauto.
Also took pics of my new bump stops. Here's what was left of the old ones:
The rubber probably fell off years ago.
I bought two 4.1" bump stops from Quadratec, because I'm an idiot sometimes and didn't realize they were for lifted XJ's. 2.9" is the stock size. So I did what any reasonable person would do and took a hacksaw to them
You can see the tack welds on the back since the stock bolt broke off.
Cut off about an inch of rubber, there's still plenty on there though:
Intake ports are the same on all the heads, they just changed the shape of the manifold itself. 1999-01 are the best flowing intake design. Exhaust ports on the older heads are larger than the 2000-01 0331 heads. They went from a big round port to smaller oval ones to help the pre-cats heat up faster. So to use an older head you need an aftermarket header, or at least a stock one from the old engine. The one that came with mine was too cracked to use.
Another option is to just find an 02+ 4.0L with an 0331 TUPY head (they fixed the casting problem late in 2002) from a Grand Cherokee or Wrangler. Or get a newer head and put it on an older block.
10-20-2015, 08:25 AM
