V.A. Cherokee Club
#1352
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Location: Stafford Va
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Holy **** if you look at the dysfunctional southern Florida thread this guy has 33" tires with Moab rims with a 3" lift and no trim...its scary
#1354
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NC in my dreams
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by aquickmopar
Oh ok... do you not like the rustys long arms? If you were to get new ones which ones have you been eyeing?
#1355
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh ok. Ya I looked at BDS. I like theirs. But I've also been looking at Rubicon Express, and TNT's long arms. Don't know which ones I'll end up getting. But first thing I need to do is save up enough money. Cause long arm kits ain't cheap.
#1356
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Location: Partlow, va
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
Originally Posted by jeep98cherokee
Holy **** if you look at the dysfunctional southern Florida thread this guy has 33" tires with Moab rims with a 3" lift and no trim...its scary
#1357
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I like how RE, and TNT's long arms bolt above the cross member instead of hanging below like all the others. So their kinda like a high clearance long arm kit.
Last edited by aquickmopar; 06-01-2012 at 08:45 PM.
#1358
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
Originally Posted by aquickmopar
I like how RE, and TNT's long arms bolt above the cross member instead hang below like all the others. So their kinda like a high clearance long arm kit.
#1360
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Location: Nashville
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you use these guys like I did you don't even have to go pull it.
http://www.brandywineparts.com/locations.php#
Nuke thanks for the info on the steering. Took some of the info you laid out and spent a good amount of time researching steering setups today. Learned a ton. No pun intended. Hopefully we can get some answers on the IRO OTK kit. Looked at the ORO kit and that seems like it would be over kill for me since I really only sit at 6-6.5. Appears to be a prefect fit for you though.
#1362
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
#1363
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I did the box swap also only difference I see is it is easier to turn the steering wheel. I do recommend the upgrade. Cost about $100 for the box and $40 for the JCR steering brace.
If you use these guys like I did you don't even have to go pull it.
http://www.brandywineparts.com/locations.php#
Funny haven't even had my kit on 6 months and I am already thinking about swapping arms. The radius arm on the IRO hasn't won me over or it could just be I am still pissed about the LP D30 limitations. But anyways I've looked heavily at Clayton, Rock Krawler, IronMan and BDS. Iron Pig there in fburg does a lot of work with the Ironman guys and they showed me his short arm kit one day. Was pretty sweet and defiantly heavy duty. Said they could get a set of long arms made up for under $500. In the end I'll probably go with the Clayton kit but sure if I am want to stay 3 link or go to a 4 link. I should probably sort out my diff situation before making any lift changes though.
Nuke thanks for the info on the steering. Took some of the info you laid out and spent a good amount of time researching steering setups today. Learned a ton. No pun intended. Hopefully we can get some answers on the IRO OTK kit. Looked at the ORO kit and that seems like it would be over kill for me since I really only sit at 6-6.5. Appears to be a prefect fit for you though.
If you use these guys like I did you don't even have to go pull it.
http://www.brandywineparts.com/locations.php#
Funny haven't even had my kit on 6 months and I am already thinking about swapping arms. The radius arm on the IRO hasn't won me over or it could just be I am still pissed about the LP D30 limitations. But anyways I've looked heavily at Clayton, Rock Krawler, IronMan and BDS. Iron Pig there in fburg does a lot of work with the Ironman guys and they showed me his short arm kit one day. Was pretty sweet and defiantly heavy duty. Said they could get a set of long arms made up for under $500. In the end I'll probably go with the Clayton kit but sure if I am want to stay 3 link or go to a 4 link. I should probably sort out my diff situation before making any lift changes though.
Nuke thanks for the info on the steering. Took some of the info you laid out and spent a good amount of time researching steering setups today. Learned a ton. No pun intended. Hopefully we can get some answers on the IRO OTK kit. Looked at the ORO kit and that seems like it would be over kill for me since I really only sit at 6-6.5. Appears to be a prefect fit for you though.
Hey man, I had Ironman make me one of his custom Trac-bars and man he does great work. Extremely BEEFY. A for sure superior product. I also like his long arms. The are Nasty also,...I just don't like his crossmember. If he made more of a skid plate/belly pan out of his crossmember then it would truly be the best kit in my opinion. But if I were to do his long arms I'd have to either make my own crossmember for them or Buy RE's crossmember or TNT's crossmember and see if they would work with his long arms. But I do think RC crossmember would work them. Seeing how the long arms bolt to the crossmember. I just like how RE's & TNT's kits mounts higher up on the crossmember to make them more like a high clerance kit.
Last edited by aquickmopar; 06-02-2012 at 07:33 AM.
#1365
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
Originally Posted by Jpwright90
Hey everybody im josh im in the fred spotsy area