That is what I have and I have not had a problem

 

I have a 6.5 lift and 33s and I pass

 

I didn't

 

That's bs it should. What made it not pass

 

Re read his post Travis. Lol He said he Didn't. He quoted the OP that asked if anybody had any problems passing VA Inspection with 3" lift and 31's? He said He Didn't meaning he didn't have any problems passing. Not that he didn't pass. Lol

 

Thanks to all, i was told to keep my bumper height under 29" and my tires cant stick out more than 4". but, i couldnt find out what height it will be at with 3" on 31s

 

I could be wrong but I would guess that it is more likely to be an issue if you get pulled over for something reckless or **** off a cop on a stop than to get hassled at most inspection stations

 

I should have been more clear. I didn't have a problem passing VA inspection.

 

Thanks for catching that before me and clearing it up!

 

Invitation.....



So...first and foremost..it is a swap meet...so bring your parts! I am looking for 4.5" front shocks for an XJ so everyone knows...lol (same as 4" on TJ)

Secondly...lot of fun planned...

1) All entrant show and shine....

2) A Rock Garden for some mild crawlin....always a good time....

3) An obstacle course for fun, or the Blind Wheeling competition....

4) RTI ramp to check that flex....

5) a 50/50 raffle...spend a little, win A LOT

6) We mention the Purple Pit will be there with their Pit BBQ operation? yum!

7) A shop and tools...emergency repairs can be handled...

8) Local and national vendors with booths and prizes!

Event is from 3-8...this is considered family friendly...after 8 starts the campfire and Jeeper hangout....will be a great time...last year was insanely fun!

So get on out next Saturday....you won't be disappointed!

 

REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Annual Motor Vehicle Inspection Manual":

1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.

2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.

3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:

Worn, damaged or missing parts. Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums. Leakage in system and proper fluid level. Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or disc rotors. (NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual” for exceptions.)

4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:

Broken or missing parts. Proper adjustment. Standard factory equipment or equivalent.

5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:

Approved type, aim and output. Condition of lamps, lenses, wiring and switch. High beam indicator.

6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:

Approved type, proper bulbs, and condition of lenses, wiring and switch. Aim of fog and driving lamps. Illumination of all lamps and proper color of lenses. (NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. (Include load when measuring.)

7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:

Approved type, proper bulbs, and condition of lenses, wiring and switch. Correct operation of device. Illumination of all lamps and proper lens color.

8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR: (Jack up front end as shown in “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual”.)

Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rod ends. Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm. Play in steering wheel; leakage of power steering fluid in the system. Wheel alignment and axle alignment. Broken coil springs, spring leaves and worn shackles. Shock absorbers. Broken or weakened frame. Broken or missing engine mounts. Lift blocks.

9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:

Condition of tires including tread depth. Mixing radials and bias ply tires. Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.

10. – INSPECT MIRRORS FOR:

Rigidity of mounting. Condition of reflecting surface. Check for road visibility 200 feet to the rear. (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body.)

11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:

Electrical connections, mounting and horn button. Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.

12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:

Approved type safety glass. Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision. Cracked, scratched or broken glass. ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED. Sun shading material on windshield displaying words, lettering, numbers or pictures that does not extend below the AS-1 line is permitted. In the absence of an AS-1 line, sun shading material on the windshield displaying words, lettering, numbers or pictures cannot extend more than three inches downward from the top of the windshield, unless authorized by the Virginia Department of Motor Vehicles and indicated on the vehicle registration. Operation of left front door glass.

13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:

Operating condition. Condition of wiper blades.

14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

Exhaust line: manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc. Leakage of gases at any point from engine to point discharged from system.

15. – INSPECT REAR LICENSE PLATE FOR:

Illumination of rear plate.

16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:

Operating condition of hood latch. Presence of emissions system; evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected. Fluid levels that are below the proper level: (a) Brake fluid. (b) Power steering fluid. Power steering belt; proper tension, wear or absence of belt.

17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM OF 1973 AND SUBSEQUENT MODELS FOR:

Installation. No parts removed, disconnected or rendered inoperable. (NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

Anchorage. Location. Condition.

19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:

Approved type. Installation. Condition.

20. – INSPECT AIR BAG AND AIRBAG READINESS LIGHT FOR:

Any defects in the air bag system noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated; or The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated); or Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or If the air bag indicator fails to light or stays on continuously.

21. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle. Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.

22. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:

Any part that is not securely fastened. Liquid fuel leakage. Fuel tank filler cap for presence.

23. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:

Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment. Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.

This is their list to check, that said the va state laws are much more in depth on how they look at things, and yes it will pass but if a state man pulled you and broke out the tape measure we would all be screwed... No pun intended ha ha

 

2) new in box led pods for sale.

Taken out just for pic

 

How hard is it to replace the front hub assembly?

 

Its very easy to replace the front Hub Assembly. Just pull your wheel&tire off set aside, then pull your brake caliper off, leave your rotor on you will need to stick a screw driver down through one of the vented slots at the top of the rotor, let the screw driver rest up against the knuckel to keep the rotor from moving while you unscrew the large center nut on the Hub Assembly. Once the large center nut is loose then you can take your rotor off. Then on the back side of the knuckle there are (3) star headed bolts that you remove to pull the Hub Assembly from the knuckle. Loosen those three bolts a good ways but don't pull them all the way out. Now just set your socket on the head of the star bolt and use a hammer to hit them. This will push the Hub Assembly from the knuckle. Once the Hub Assembly is free from the knuckle you can now finish unscrewing those (3) star bolts. And your done. Reassembly is just backwards from this, except for hitting on those star bolts Lol just screw those back on to reattach your Hub to the knuckle. Hope you understood all that.

 

Ok, thanks. It sounds fairly simple.