Northern Utah BS thread
04-24-2012, 08:41 PM
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Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
04-24-2012, 08:47 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
04-24-2012, 08:56 PM
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Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
we can build you a true 4 link like my 3 link just one extra arm, but it's not cheap to do LOL it's sad that just my arms alone without the joints are 80 buck a piece. then you add joints and a crossmember and axle mounts then you start to wonder if it's worth it HA HA
with yours being a DD still i'd go with the TnT upgrade Y link kit. it works great and is hi clearance, plus you can't go wrong with anything rob, bob and the crew can build
plus it's cheaper than what you can build one for
with yours being a DD still i'd go with the TnT upgrade Y link kit. it works great and is hi clearance, plus you can't go wrong with anything rob, bob and the crew can build
plus it's cheaper than what you can build one for
04-24-2012, 09:03 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0I
Originally Posted by jeeperzcreeperz
Then come out lol show us what your rig can do
04-24-2012, 09:09 PM
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Year: 2000
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we can build you a true 4 link like my 3 link just one extra arm, but it's not cheap to do LOL it's sad that just my arms alone without the joints are 80 buck a piece. then you add joints and a crossmember and axle mounts then you start to wonder if it's worth it HA HA
with yours being a DD still i'd go with the TnT upgrade Y link kit. it works great and is hi clearance, plus you can't go wrong with anything rob, bob and the crew can build
plus it's cheaper than what you can build one for
with yours being a DD still i'd go with the TnT upgrade Y link kit. it works great and is hi clearance, plus you can't go wrong with anything rob, bob and the crew can build
plus it's cheaper than what you can build one for
04-24-2012, 09:13 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
My buddy bought a stock cherokee yesterday and we took it out to see how it would do. been a long time since I have been in a stock Jeep..
04-24-2012, 09:16 PM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
04-24-2012, 09:18 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
Yeah it was wierd pulling up to an obstacle that is a cakewalk for my rig and having his get stuck before he even gets on it. But in its defense it does have bald tires and swaybars hooked up
04-24-2012, 09:27 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
Originally Posted by Tobyxj
So rustys is a 4 link and iro is a 3 link right ?
04-24-2012, 09:31 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Rusty's is a radius arm with 4 attaching points, which will bind as the arms fight each other to twist, one will pull in and down the other out and up and pivot separately. Some have even had them twist the tubes out of the diff with it (I have heard lol)
IRO is a radius arm setup with 3 attaching points, which will make the pinion pivot with the drivers side arm and caster is dependent on the drivers arm. The pass side has one arm which will allow the axle to pivot on it without binding like the 4 arm radius setup.
Neither is a 4link or a 3 link, both a radius arm setup, and are plagued with unloading, and odd pinion angles. Not always a big deal or noticeable with every setup, But something to be aware of.
IRO is a radius arm setup with 3 attaching points, which will make the pinion pivot with the drivers side arm and caster is dependent on the drivers arm. The pass side has one arm which will allow the axle to pivot on it without binding like the 4 arm radius setup.
Neither is a 4link or a 3 link, both a radius arm setup, and are plagued with unloading, and odd pinion angles. Not always a big deal or noticeable with every setup, But something to be aware of.
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 04-24-2012 at 09:35 PM.
04-24-2012, 09:41 PM
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Rusty's is a radius arm with 4 attaching points, which will bind as the arms fight each other to twist, one will pull in and down the other out and up and pivot separately. Some have even had them twist the tubes out of the diff with it (I have heard lol)
IRO is a radius arm setup with 3 attaching points, which will make the pinion pivot with the drivers side arm and caster is dependent on the drivers arm. The pass side has one arm which will allow the axle to pivot on it without binding like the 4 arm radius setup.
Neither is a 4link or a 3 link, both a radius arm setup, and are plagued with unloading, and odd pinion angles. Not always a big deal or noticeable with every setup, But something to be aware of.