the nice thing about the powertrax or lockright is you done have to set anything up... just take out the spider gears and throw it in easy as cake

what rear axle do you have?

 

It has abs do I believe Dana 44? Should I lock front and rear or is one more beneficial to start?

 

Nothing much, just been busy with school. Gotta get my pre reqs done by january so i can start paramedic school.

I'm planning on the 25th for sure but not the camping and sunday, gotta go back to work that sunday.

 

you have a 44 in the front or in the rear? ABS came on Dana 30's that is a front axle not a back. as for locking the front or rear or both. well it all depends on how deep your pockets are? i would love to have my jeep locked and geared front and rear, but i don't have the cash. i just have a full Detroit in the rear of my 8.25 and i love it. you can go about ten times more places or just go easier in the places you already go with just a rear locker.

 

Trevor right (slcxj)? From the looks of your avitar it looks like ur running a late model xj which will have the D30 front & crystler 8.25 rear! IMO if I had the 8.25 & $ I'd; lock the rear, regear 4.56-4.88, 33"- 35" tires, chrome molly shafts!

If I had the $$$!!!

 

Start with a locker in the rear first. 1. Less things to break in the rear than the front. 2. Pushing is easier than pulling. Don't believe me, try backing up a loose dirt hill compared to driving up it. Unless you want to back up everything 3. Umm Reread 1 and 2 again. 4. I personally only ran a rear locker for 5 years before i put in a front. It's not fun trying to turn 33's with a locker and no power steering. Even with PS it can be fun.

 

Yep plus you have more weight in the front keeping your "power wheel" on the ground (not locked) vs the rear that is light thus always loosing traction on 1 rear "power wheel" or the other... Power will take the easiest route!

 

bad day guys, who's the electrical expert? haha

 

Depends on the issue. Vehicle, Circuit board, Wiring, electrical components?

 

so driving home frome pull n save and i smelt wires burning so i pulled into 711 and my fuse in my fuse panel that says int lights was melted, turn the key off when the jeep is running and it stays running lol gotta wiggle the wire in the fuse box that says ignition for it to shut off, also since that started today my dimmer switch doesnt work it just stays bright (no big deal but are they related?)

 

A hot wire somewhere from the battery to your fuse box is grounding out. Or by the fuse box itself with a hot wire inside it. The way the engine is shut of is by stopping the power to the ignition. The ignition is still getting power by the short and not the switch used by the key. The dimmer will not work since it is also being bypasses by the short. Anything else on or not working?

 

well i for a lil bit my tail lights were really really dim but after messin with the fuses the went back to normal.also on the fuse panel where that fuse was its melted pretty bad should i replace the panel? and i found what was shorting out, there is a wire under the hatch panel that when you disconnect it all the interior lights turn off well it was really hot and melted to a ground wire.

 

Yes replace the fuse box. That wire would be the problem. The interior light switch is hot. When a door is open and the switch is on. Activating the circuit for the lights. With it grounding out, there was no resistance to slow the electricity down. Causing it to heat up and melt everything. Pull the melted wires apart and see if that works. If so, electric tape them up.

 

gotta love it, im not an electrical guy and never dealt with this stuff how big of a pain is it to replace the box?

 

I've personally never done one. But depending on the damage, you might not have too. If you can get a fuse in and it doesn't move around and cause it to touch other fuses. Then you might be good. Take a pic and post it up when you can.