Arizona
06-23-2012, 01:23 PM
#2011
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Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by xjpioneer
Easy fix. I "fixed" my vaccuum disco. With a nut and two washers in 15 min. Shes always"locked" now. No difference at all.
06-24-2012, 12:23 PM
#2013
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Mesa, Az
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I-6
Okay, I did this months ago, but due to special request, i went underneath the jeep and took it apart for pictures so i could put up my cure for disco fever.
Now, i did waste my money on a cable disconnect kit before... WASTE OF MONEY!!! that broke the first time i used it.
This solution is nearly free if you just have the stuff laying around.
Tools required are an 11mm wrench, snap ring pliers and a catch pan.
Consumable materials are rtv, a nut (i'm not sure on size, youll find one easily) and two washers the same size.
First off, you will no longer be needing the vacuum lines that go from your t-case 4WD sensor to the disco actuator. or the vacuum supply lines. Throw them out. You dont need the sesor wires to the diaphragm either.
Remove the four bolts that secure the disco actuator, have that catch pan ready for a small amount of gear oil. Once you remove the actuator, you will see the adjusting fork and the ring that "lock" the middle shaft and right axle shaft. What you ultimately want to happen is the adjusting ring to be on the left at all times, this will keep these shafts engaged always.
Okay, so now you have this actuator in your hand,huh? heres the fun part. remove the two snap rings that hold the shifting rod in, it was really hard to get picture of these, but once its in your hand, you'll see them.(i believe there is two, gimme a break, this part is off memory now) once you have the two snap rings out, the vacuum diaphragm and shifting rod are free to disassemble. go ahead and take that out. the shifting fork will come out of the housing now. you can now put a nut or some other spacer in, with washers on either side, around the shifting rod on the RIGHT side of the fork as you assemble the housing in reverse order.
Now you can put the assembly back together. Be sure to use rtv to seal the assembly to the axle housing.
I hope this small write up has helped you and i apologize ahead of time if it confuses you at all. Good Luck!
the pictures were added in the post below. this is my first attempt at a write up
Now, i did waste my money on a cable disconnect kit before... WASTE OF MONEY!!! that broke the first time i used it.
This solution is nearly free if you just have the stuff laying around.
Tools required are an 11mm wrench, snap ring pliers and a catch pan.
Consumable materials are rtv, a nut (i'm not sure on size, youll find one easily) and two washers the same size.
First off, you will no longer be needing the vacuum lines that go from your t-case 4WD sensor to the disco actuator. or the vacuum supply lines. Throw them out. You dont need the sesor wires to the diaphragm either.
Remove the four bolts that secure the disco actuator, have that catch pan ready for a small amount of gear oil. Once you remove the actuator, you will see the adjusting fork and the ring that "lock" the middle shaft and right axle shaft. What you ultimately want to happen is the adjusting ring to be on the left at all times, this will keep these shafts engaged always.
Okay, so now you have this actuator in your hand,huh? heres the fun part. remove the two snap rings that hold the shifting rod in, it was really hard to get picture of these, but once its in your hand, you'll see them.(i believe there is two, gimme a break, this part is off memory now) once you have the two snap rings out, the vacuum diaphragm and shifting rod are free to disassemble. go ahead and take that out. the shifting fork will come out of the housing now. you can now put a nut or some other spacer in, with washers on either side, around the shifting rod on the RIGHT side of the fork as you assemble the housing in reverse order.
Now you can put the assembly back together. Be sure to use rtv to seal the assembly to the axle housing.
I hope this small write up has helped you and i apologize ahead of time if it confuses you at all. Good Luck!
the pictures were added in the post below. this is my first attempt at a write up
Last edited by xjpioneer; 06-24-2012 at 12:29 PM. Reason: picture issues
06-24-2012, 12:27 PM
#2014
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Mesa, Az
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I-6
Okay, I did this months ago, but due to special request, i went underneath the jeep and took it apart for pictures so i could put up my cure for disco fever.
Now, i did waste my money on a cable disconnect kit before... WASTE OF MONEY!!! that broke the first time i used it.
This solution is nearly free if you just have the stuff laying around.
Tools required are an 11mm wrench, snap ring pliers and a catch pan.
Consumable materials are rtv, a nut (i'm not sure on size, youll find one easily) and two washers the same size.
[IMG]<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/?action=view&current=100_0529.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/100_0529.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
First off, you will no longer be needing the vacuum lines that go from your t-case 4WD sensor to the disco actuator. or the vacuum supply lines. Throw them out. You dont need the sesor wires to the diaphragm either.
Remove the four bolts that secure the disco actuator, have that catch pan ready for a small amount of gear oil. Once you remove the actuator, you will see the adjusting fork and the ring that "lock" the middle shaft and right axle shaft. What you ultimately want to happen is the adjusting ring to be on the left at all times, this will keep these shafts engaged always.
[IMG]<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/?action=view&current=100_0530.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/100_0530.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
Okay, so now you have this actuator in your hand,huh? heres the fun part. remove the two snap rings that hold the shifting rod in, it was really hard to get picture of these, but once its in your hand, you'll see them.(i believe there is two, gimme a break, this part is off memory now) once you have the two snap rings out, the vacuum diaphragm and shifting rod are free to disassemble. go ahead and take that out. the shifting fork will come out of the housing now. you can now put a nut or some other spacer in, with washers on either side, around the shifting rod on the RIGHT side of the fork as you assemble the housing in reverse order.
[IMG]<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/?action=view&current=100_0531.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/100_0531.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG] here is a picture of the reassembled fork and housing assembly.
Now you can put the assembly back together. Be sure to use rtv to seal the assembly to the axle housing.
I hope this small write up has helped you and i apologize ahead of time if it confuses you at all. Good Luck!
Now, i did waste my money on a cable disconnect kit before... WASTE OF MONEY!!! that broke the first time i used it.
This solution is nearly free if you just have the stuff laying around.
Tools required are an 11mm wrench, snap ring pliers and a catch pan.
Consumable materials are rtv, a nut (i'm not sure on size, youll find one easily) and two washers the same size.
[IMG]<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/?action=view&current=100_0529.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/100_0529.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
First off, you will no longer be needing the vacuum lines that go from your t-case 4WD sensor to the disco actuator. or the vacuum supply lines. Throw them out. You dont need the sesor wires to the diaphragm either.
Remove the four bolts that secure the disco actuator, have that catch pan ready for a small amount of gear oil. Once you remove the actuator, you will see the adjusting fork and the ring that "lock" the middle shaft and right axle shaft. What you ultimately want to happen is the adjusting ring to be on the left at all times, this will keep these shafts engaged always.
[IMG]<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/?action=view&current=100_0530.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/100_0530.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]
Okay, so now you have this actuator in your hand,huh? heres the fun part. remove the two snap rings that hold the shifting rod in, it was really hard to get picture of these, but once its in your hand, you'll see them.(i believe there is two, gimme a break, this part is off memory now) once you have the two snap rings out, the vacuum diaphragm and shifting rod are free to disassemble. go ahead and take that out. the shifting fork will come out of the housing now. you can now put a nut or some other spacer in, with washers on either side, around the shifting rod on the RIGHT side of the fork as you assemble the housing in reverse order.
[IMG]<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/?action=view&current=100_0531.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g192/baker87_2006/100_0531.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG] here is a picture of the reassembled fork and housing assembly.
Now you can put the assembly back together. Be sure to use rtv to seal the assembly to the axle housing.
I hope this small write up has helped you and i apologize ahead of time if it confuses you at all. Good Luck!
try these links..
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0531.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0536.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0530.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0529.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0528.jpg
oh yes, i forgot to mention be sure to cap off the vacuum supply line!
06-24-2012, 12:33 PM
#2015
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I-6
06-24-2012, 12:52 PM
#2016
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by xjpioneer
Damn! i thought the pictures uploaded!
try these links..
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0531.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0536.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0530.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0529.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...6/100_0528.jpg
oh yes, i forgot to mention be sure to cap off the vacuum supply line!
06-24-2012, 12:54 PM
#2017
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Location: San Tan Valley
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not for sure a of right now my Jeep is down right now I'm doing allot of up grading so I can be ready for winter
06-24-2012, 01:04 PM
#2018
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I-6
06-29-2012, 03:50 PM
#2019
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Location: Phoenix
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
i just went out to the verde river and that was a pretty good place until i got on the silk quad trail and almost fliped in my stock jeep. haha but overall had fun and a good place for offroading
07-02-2012, 03:00 AM
#2022
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well, I was out in Sedona all weekend and I did the Broken Arrow trail. The whole trail is a peice of cake. I went up the devils staircase with my stock xj. My buddy did it with his Disovery with a 2 inch lift too. The guy at the 4x4 shop gave us a map of trails with difficult ratings 1-5. Broken arrow being a 3.5, but honestly, it was super easy. I'm not some sort of seasoned wheeler either, just a 17 year old kid who bought his jeep less then a month ago. Anybody know some tough trails close to north valley phoenix? Thanks 
07-10-2012, 03:05 AM
#2025
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter I6 HO
Originally Posted by codyc
Just cuz you went on a trail rated 3.5 doesnt mean you even hit any of the obstacles. You can go on all the bypasses