I currently run 33's with 3:55's and stock shafts all around I have a lighter pedal but also know when to lay off before something breaks.... Anyways I've ran this setup for about 30 trips out wheeling and no broke axels, I'm also locked up front

 

I dont really understand the point of you guys telling me none of your shafts are breaking and that the d30 should hold up. The simple fact is that it isnt holding up to my tires and the way i wheel, so i posted what i thought to be a good deal on some shafts im going to get!

Its completely obvious to me that stock d30 with its stock components are not strong enough for a locked jeep on 35s. If you disagree with that, thats ok, but you will see!

not trying to be a jerk just trying to stop this thread form being a " i have this and this on stock this and have never broke!" No one will change my mind that my front axle in its current state is anywhere near strong enough for what i have and do.

 

Hey Timmy get ahold of that guy and ask him if the axles will be cheaper if you buy 2 sets of them. I will get a set and maybe we both can get them for less!!!

 

Get them quick so we can wheel a whole day w/out having to fix your axle lol!

 

lol, unfortunately matt, i am probably out until next year sometime =[

I am pretty sure the rest of he guys are going to evans in october though, ill be riding along for that one!

 

hey man i know your set on getting chromos and thats cool. im not one of those dudes that says stuff shouldnt break. im a semi mechanic if things didnt break i would be outta job. but im also one of those guys that likes to make things stronger for the cheapest amount possible and with a little bit of work. so i just wanted to show you this. simple concept get a set of anit lock brake axle shafts because they for sure have big u joints, throw a set of cheap greasable u joints becasue: your weldin this on you may want to ad some grease to the ujoints afterwards, and weld these on see how they old up.
ronrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_C ode=IR-S_AAK&Category_Code=PFX

 

^^x2!! I welded those on a new set of axle shafts with grease able 760 u joints. So far so good with 33" and locked, but I'll be moving up to 35"s here shortly and that'll be the test. The guys over at IRO say they've been having better luck with this setup than the chromolys, and I'm pretty sure they know a thing or two.

 

Well now, That may be a way to go! hanks a ton for the input man! Ill definately consider this! If i did it this way i could be back up and wheeling in no time!

if i can find the freaking shafts! there are literally none around here! lol

 

I run 33" tires and i still break chromolly shafts not very often.i was breaking stock shafts every other time i went out.i like chromolly shafts they come with life time warranty so you only have to buy them once.i say yukon shafts from randys ring & pinion they are local and works with you.

 

Thanks for the link Six Pack!! I think I'm going to do this to my D30 knuckle joints too. I'm really against shelling out 5 Franklins or more for one set of axle shafts.

Timmy, I was reading that little blurb on the IRO website about those weld on tabs. The axle ears around your knuckle U-joint are definitely what broke first the other day at Rimrock.

 

yea, thats what has happened to all three axles that i have broken.

1 of 2 things happened on all occasions, 1 the u joint broke and therefore taking out the ears on the axle shaft or 2 the ears flexed/ovaled out enough for the cap on the ujoint to come off resulting in ujoint failure and also breaking the ears.

My plan as of now is, buy the almost alloy kit, find some 95+ or abs shafts, put 760 u joints in.

We will see how that works for me, i have alot of confidence in that setup though!

Thanks again six pack for the info on those.

 

Thanks for posting that link! Those ears flexing and the u joint cap coming out seem to be my #1 breakage on my d30 running 35" tsl's and locked. For $30 bucks it's worth a shot

 

I did a little bit of research online today. The Spicer 5-760X U-joint is physically the same size as a Spicer 5-297X U-joint. It is just a newer design that they came up with. The difference is that the 5-760X is cold forged vs. the 5-297X is hot forged. This supposedly makes them a little stronger. Here is the catch, though. The 5-760X only comes in the NON-GREASABLE, no maintenance variety. Now, this is a good thing, though. This means the U-joint cross is solid cold forged steel and much stronger than a U-joint with grease channels drilled through it. The Spicer 5-297X U-joint can be had in the greasable or non-greasable variety. I am old school in that I like to be able to grease anything that moves on my Jeep but....I believe if a guy was to install a set of Spicer 5-760X U-joints with their solid cold forged steel cross in his D30 axles and then weld on a set of the IRO Almost Alloys tabs, that a guy would have one heck of a set of strong axle shafts comparable to the strength of Chromos for WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY less than even the cheapest set of Chromos from a dealer.

 

Yeah, I revise my earlier mention that my 760x ujoints were grease able. They're not! One thing I have noticed with these tabs is that they're a tight fit in the wheel hub. When turning I could hear them hitting the bolts around the hub. I fixed this by filing down the tabs, to improve clearance.

I'm glad these almost alloy tabs are getting some discussion here. Before I bought them, I did some research but only found threads of people thinking they were a bad idea cuz you couldn't remove the tabs to replace the ujoints on the trail.

 

Well, according to Iron Rock Offroad. The idea is with a new set of 760s or even 297s, with the tabs in place you won't ever break another axle shaft at the ears or knuckle U-joint.

I need to re-read what the tabs are made out of.....but, as far as I know any metal that can be welded on, can be ground off. Sure you wouldn't be able to do it on the trail unless you had an OBA system that could run power tools but swapping a broken U-joint out at home would be no problem...even with the tabs.

Yep, ole Buck is definitely going to do this upgrade. It definitely fits right in with the rest up the mods I did to my Cheap Super 30. It will be even stronger and I still will not have sold out and "bought" any part of my Super 30. Its still all "BUILT". This mod comes just in time as I will hopefully be going up to 35s or 36s in near future.