1989 XJ 4.0 Auto 4x4 116,000 miles Stock on 30".

Granted this is not my priority witht the Jeep (that would be death wobble, trans mount, & an oil leak) but it is something I have wanted to do since I got it 5 years ago. I figure I can spend a few hours one day to try bring the paint back to life. It is not in too bad of shape for 32 years old but does look dull and flat, and has a few scratches here and there.

I have never seen an XJ my color before, at least not in person. It is a dark blue but also appears to have metallic flake in it. I have seen some dark blue XJ's but they always seem to be a little bit different color of blue amd more opaque (solid) blue with no metallic. People often call my Jeep blue, and sometimes even green. Not sure what my color is called or how common it was.

Anyway, it needs a good washing first off but here is some pictures to help you out. I read other threads and they always asked for pictures of the paint. I took one from inside the door after wiping and it sort of shows at least the potential of the paint. It's actually kind of hard to capture good pictures that reflect the paint.

So what is your opinion on trying to bring the paint back to life? I was thinking of just giving it a good wash. Giving it a polish, a buff, and then some wax. Just some regular stuff from Walmart. Is that fine or just a waste of time and money?

(PS: Yes I need to paint those side view mirrors black)

 

CLAY BAR.

 

So wash, clay bar, polish, wax?

Also doing this by hand forgot to mention that. I read that using a machine buffer, unless you have good experience can eff your paint up anyway.

 

hand rubbing compound, followed by hand polishing compound, followed by hand wax polish and buff...All by hand...that way it will be finished correctly without swirls or burnish marks. Takes time and effort, but if your want it done fast, take it to a fly by night detail shop and let them have at it.

 

+1 to all the above.
If your fun budget permits it having a good paint shop lay down a nice layer of clear coat after the rub and buff is a good idea to give it depth and protest it. I hear the newer clear coats have some kick a$$ UV inhibitors in them now.

 

They didn't have clay bars so I got me some microfiber towels and this, which will be followed by a wax for protection and extra shine. I'll post some before and afters.

 

have a really good inspection of that clear coat...it looks like it might be approaching end-of-life

a cut with p800 and fresh clear coat would probably bring it back to like new

Once the clear starts blistering, its extremely difficult to remedy

 

I agree with this comment.... a medium grit rubbing compound, followed by a good wax would do wonders. If you've never used it before, you DONT need to press hard... just do it by hand and let the compound do the work. You don't want to go too far. Remember factory paint is only a couple mm's thick to start with followed by the clear.

 

This is going to take you hours btw and at some point your hand is going to get tired and you're probably going to get annoyed and give up lol.

Wash the vehicle thoroughly and if you can use dawn dish soap as your soap before you polish since you do not have access to clay. If you use dawn the paint must be waxed after though since it is a degreasing soap.

Ashton Bingaman - Orange Hat Detailing.
Been in this business for 5 years and have detailed boats, helicopters, and cars worth more than the home I live in XD.

If I were you and had some fun money I would buy a DA from the auto parts store, you'll find better results from that. Even Jimmy down the street that'll wax your car with a rotary for 100 bucks will get you better results than hand polishing. hand polishing is a lost art and very important skill to know how to do and yes it is an art. But hand polishing is only used in situations when you are working on cars older with much more pristine paint and you usually just use it to polish the edges.

 

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The Easy way and short cuts usually turn out bad. Once the paint has been ruined by a "Jimmy with a rotary polisher" it is done. I hand compounded a 1949 Ford pickup by hand, waxed it by hand and buffed it by hand. The green was oxidized and dull. When it was done...it look like a new paint job. Was it easy, no, but the sense of accomplishment was priceless. Don't try to do it all in one day....do a fender...then the other, then the hood...etc etc...

 

Your opinion is not invalid and I will not argue with you XD.

 

it is not that we may disagree, it is that we may raise a mug and say it is so....we shall endure and survive with the weak and the strong...for we are the Jeep devine.

 

I am borderline considering getting a little buffer BUT not going to lie the thought of doing it by hand and the feeling of accomplishment described above just makes me want to do it by hand. Most people would probably hear how long it takes by hand and they should brake it into days would make them go immediately and buy a buffer. Me it had the opposite effect.

It is going to rain here for a few days so it will be Friday before I can start but be sure to keep posting your stories and thoughts, as I am enjoying reading them.

 

I agree with BruceB, do it by hand, one or two panels at a time. When I wax my pickup every spring, I probably spend an entire day doing it. I use mainly Mother's products and have never had a problem, and the paint has always looked great.

I wash it, then clay it by hand. Then I use their three step wax system (prep, sealer / glaze, and wax). It is time consuming, but the paint looks great after.

If you wanted to use a buffer, see if you can pickup a couple older parts / panels (hood, etc.) from somewhere. Use them to practice on before you start working on your car.

 

use a light duty polish compound, then if you still see some scratches consider the coarser rubbing compound in those areas ONLY, then redo the polish on those areas. follow with a real carnuba wax.


Id avoid putting a clear coat on any paint much less old paint. adhesion issues with old paint, plus, clear coats suck. the whole concept of a clear coat is stupid. clear coats dont last, look at most cars parked outside for a long time, if they have clear coats, it is peeling. I rather have a paint loaded with good color pigment, one that can be buffed if it oxidizes verses a clear coat, once a clear coat starts to lift, it is game over. I am so damn mad at the greenies where I live, they have outlawed good paint, everything here has to be a crappy color coat, which is flat, followed by the clear coat garbage. my older cars painted 40 years ago with real paint, look better than a 20 year old clear coated new fangled crap factory paint car. I fricking hate clear coats, but the dictators that rule me give me no choice when I repaint, I hate them to hell.