so they are all adjusted right, i replaced the wheel cylinders and made sure the proportioning valve was not stuck. the only thing i have not replaced yet is the master cylinder and the brake booster. i have done what the haynes manule said and the booster checks out good. i do plan on doing the dual diaphram upgrade but i still want to make sure that is the problem....this is killing me

 

are you getting fluid out when you bleed

 

if the feeling you have your brakes work when you are stopping when you want to but if you have to make a panic stop your praying you dont smack the gu that just stopped short in front of you feeling right

 

that sorta made sense

 

the fluid comes out normal. and they wont stop anytime, not just panic stops

 

you hare having someone hold the brake down. opening bleeder until fluid stops. then closing bleeder, and THEN having the person lift the pedal up?

 

yep. did it just right. even bled the proportional valve like that

 

To me it sounds like you might have a master cylinder leaking internally. If you where planning on doing the M/C and booster upgrade anyway I don't think it could hurt to try since you've pretty much replaced everything already. Just make sure that you bench bleed the M/C, then the passenger rear, driver rear, pass front then drivers front.

It's not hard to swap out either. I replaced the booster and M/C on my 96 and was bled and back on the road in under 2 hours. I don't have ABS.

 

i have never bench bled one before. how do i go about that

 

you have it in your hand. and fill it with fluid. then you push the rod in. and once you stop put your fingers over the brake line holes and release. then repeat untill they both are shooting good fluid. top off and install without letting it run dry.

If you planned on upgrading anyway now would be the time to get the dyaphram and master...

 

thanks, hopefully i can do this in the next couple of weeks. im going to college in nashville and live in south carolina so i rarely get to work on it

 

You can also bleed the M/C on the Jeep.

If you get a JY M/C losen the brake lines just enough to make them easy to remove later on. Then cut them off of the Jeep so they are long enough to put the ends inside the M/C opening so the fluid just goes back into it. Then mount it on the booster just like you'd normally instal it. Put fresh DOT 3 in and pump the brakes. Keep it topped off. Once you're squirting fluid and no air, pull the "bleeder" lines off and quickly put your lines on. Then bleed your brakes as normal starting with the passenger rear.

 

This is how I do it also. Here's a write up on bench bleeding, some people will run the kit tubes back into the master but then you will be fighting bubbles, so it's faster/better to expell the fluid and bubbles into a container (just make sure you don't allow the master to get too low).
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit...ench-bleed.htm

 

when the brake system on a single diag booster xj cherokee is in perfect working order and you introduce 33 inch tire or bigger your not going to stop ,the booster upgrade will cure these issues been here done it all the boster is the only cure for it

 

i know with those bigger tires i wont be able to stop but when the rear is jacked up and the tires are off the ground it doesnt matter what size im running, the brakes wheel not hold at idle in drive