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XJ Radiator recommendations in So California

Old Aug 10, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Was it his attitude toward regular maintenance and fixing broken parts that lead to the burning of the XJ in your avatar?
It was actually caused by a faulty 3 row radiator

Last edited by Atmos; Aug 10, 2012 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #17  
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Been wondering about that avatar. I thought maybe y'all just cremated your XJ's when they died.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #18  
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I don't under stand why so many folks are against radiators with plastic tanks and aluminum cores. Every car manufacturer installs them at the factory and has been for the past 20+ years. 1/2 ton p/u trucks with 10,000 lb tow ratings come with plastic tank rads and so do $150K Mercedes. What doesn't come with a plastic tank rad these days?????? The '98 XJ FSM even says plastic tanks are stronger.

With regard to a OE 2 row, the only ones I've seen are only available for right hand drive postal XJs. I've got an OE Chrysler rad sitting in a box, as I type this, and it ain't a 2 row rad but it is from a XJ with HD cooling. I don't know about early XJs, but a '98 XJ came with a 1 row, 1.25" thick aluminum core with plastic tanks, at least that's the way they came from the factory in the US of A. That's what we went back in with.....an aftermarket 1 row, 1.25" thick core aluminum/plastic rad.

When we 1st thought about replacing the rad, I saw adds for 3 row XJ rads and thought Wow!, that's the way to go, a rad that's 3X thicker than OE, how could u beat that?..........until I started looking a little closer at what they were made of (copper/brass), how narrow the tube design is and comparing the actual metal core thickness to OE. Most of the 3 row rads I've seen described have a 1.8" thick core. After u subtract 1/2" for the two 1/4" gaps between the 3 tubes, u get an actual metal core thickness of 1.3" vs the OE metal core thickness of 1.25".

I'm not bashing anyone that has a copper/brass 3 row rad but the fact remains, after doing some research/reading, etc., copper/brass rads with narrow tube design is old school. All the vehicles I've owned since the early '90s have had/have a 1 row, but a very wide row, aluminum core/plastic tank rads which are of the modern, more efficient design.

All I'm saying is, do a little studying on rads and go into your radiator purchase (whatever it may be) with a little more knowledge of radiator facts.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rad2.htm

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Stewart_faq.htm (#7)

Again, the OE rad is not a 2 row (unless postal), it's a 1, very wide, row rad.
Attached Thumbnails XJ Radiator recommendations in So California-007-2-.jpg   XJ Radiator recommendations in So California-014-2-.jpg  
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by djb383
I don't under stand why so many folks are against radiators with plastic tanks and aluminum cores. Every car manufacturer installs them at the factory and has been for the past 20+ years. 1/2 ton p/u trucks with 10,000 lb tow ratings come with plastic tank rads and so do $150K Mercedes. What doesn't come with a plastic tank rad these days?????? The '98 XJ FSM even says plastic tanks are stronger.

With regard to a OE 2 row, the only ones I've seen are only available for right hand drive postal XJs. I've got an OE Chrysler rad sitting in a box, as I type this, and it ain't a 2 row rad but it is from a XJ with HD cooling. I don't know about early XJs, but a '98 XJ came with a 1 row, 1.25" thick aluminum core with plastic tanks, at least that's the way they came from the factory in the US of A. That's what we went back in with.....an aftermarket 1 row, 1.25" thick core aluminum/plastic rad.

When we 1st thought about replacing the rad, I saw adds for 3 row XJ rads and thought Wow!, that's the way to go, a rad that's 3X thicker than OE, how could u beat that?..........until I started looking a little closer at what they were made of (copper/brass), how narrow the tube design is and comparing the actual metal core thickness to OE. Most of the 3 row rads I've seen described have a 1.8" thick core. After u subtract 1/2" for the two 1/4" gaps between the 3 tubes, u get an actual metal core thickness of 1.3" vs the OE metal core thickness of 1.25".

I'm not bashing anyone that has a copper/brass 3 row rad but the fact remains, after doing some research/reading, etc., copper/brass rads with narrow tube design is old school. All the vehicles I've owned since the early '90s have had/have a 1 row, but a very wide row, aluminum core/plastic tank rads which are of the modern, more efficient design.

All I'm saying is, do a little studying on rads and go into your radiator purchase (whatever it may be) with a little more knowledge of radiator facts.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rad2.htm

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Stewart_faq.htm (#7)

Again, the OE rad is not a 2 row (unless postal), it's a 1, very wide, row rad.
I was not sure if the stock was a single row or 2-row until today, however the references in this thread call it a 2-row OEM replacement. I don't think that was saying that the OEM was a 2-row rather that the 2-row (or 3-row) was an OEM replacement meaning it fits in the OEM location. I did know that it was aluminum with plastic tank.

What you are saying makes sense. My stock radiator has lasted 14 years and 120,000 miles with most of its life in the harsh summers and winters of Oklahoma so that seems like a quality unit to me.

This is why I am on this site, to learn as much as I can and purchase the best radiator for what I need.

Thanks for all the information.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #20  
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I just put in the replacement Autozone radiator in mine. Spectra brand. $109 bucks i think. Works like a charm.

Cheap and has a lifetime warranty.

For the price im happy with it. Keeps my jeep happy too.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by huey104
I just put in the replacement Autozone radiator in mine. Spectra brand. $109 bucks i think. Works like a charm.

Cheap and has a lifetime warranty.

For the price im happy with it. Keeps my jeep happy too.
same her when i changed to open system right over the counter at bennett works great
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by djb383
I don't under stand why so many folks are against radiators with plastic tanks and aluminum cores. Every car manufacturer installs them at the factory and has been for the past 20+ years. 1/2 ton p/u trucks with 10,000 lb tow ratings come with plastic tank rads and so do $150K Mercedes. What doesn't come with a plastic tank rad these days?????? The '98 XJ FSM even says plastic tanks are stronger.

With regard to a OE 2 row, the only ones I've seen are only available for right hand drive postal XJs. I've got an OE Chrysler rad sitting in a box, as I type this, and it ain't a 2 row rad but it is from a XJ with HD cooling. I don't know about early XJs, but a '98 XJ came with a 1 row, 1.25" thick aluminum core with plastic tanks, at least that's the way they came from the factory in the US of A. That's what we went back in with.....an aftermarket 1 row, 1.25" thick core aluminum/plastic rad.

When we 1st thought about replacing the rad, I saw adds for 3 row XJ rads and thought Wow!, that's the way to go, a rad that's 3X thicker than OE, how could u beat that?..........until I started looking a little closer at what they were made of (copper/brass), how narrow the tube design is and comparing the actual metal core thickness to OE. Most of they're 3 row rads I've seen described have a 1.8" thick core. After u subtract 1/2" for the two 1/4" gaps between the 3 tubes, u get an actual metal core thickness of 1.3" vs the OE metal core thickness of 1.25".

I'm not bashing anyone that has a copper/brass 3 row rad but the fact remains, after doing some research/reading, etc., copper/brass rads with narrow tube design is old school. All the vehicles I've owned since the early '90s have had/have a 1 row, but a very wide row, aluminum core/plastic tank rads which are of the modern, more efficient design.

All I'm saying is, do a little studying on rads and go into your radiator purchase (whatever it may be) with a little more knowledge of radiator facts.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rad2.htm

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Stewart_faq.htm (#7)

Again, the OE rad is not a 2 row (unless postal), it's a 1, very wide, row rad.

Through personal experience I have found the plastic end tanks to typically be of poor quality.

Its not hard to imagine the difference between plastic mated to metal vs metal mated to metal.

I'm sticking with my CSF 3 core.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #23  
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Maybe I will go with the OEM replacement and with the money I save I can upgrade my fan clutch to the ZJ unit.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
........I'm sticking with my CSF 3 core.
.....and I don't blame/bash you or anyone for sticking with what they bought. If it cools, it cools. To be honest with u, I was somewhat surprised to read "plastic tanks stronger than metal" in the FSM.

The bottom line is, just about any new rad will out-perform any old/crudded-up/missing fin rad.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by djb383
.....and I don't blame/bash you or anyone for sticking with what they bought. If it cools, it cools. To be honest with u, I was somewhat surprised to read "plastic tanks stronger than metal" in the FSM.

The bottom line is, just about any new rad will out-perform any old/crudded-up/missing fin rad.
plastic stronger than metal maybe what leaks is the gasket/sealent between tank and core on metal its all soldered as one pc
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tobtech
Maybe I will go with the OEM replacement and with the money I save I can upgrade my fan clutch to the ZJ unit.
Might hold off on the HD fan clutch 'til next spring or so. Hopefully, cooler weather is just around the corner and u will need a good heater. LOL

We experimented with a HD fan clutch (not the ZJ clutch) and promptly took it off......fan would not freewheel/disengage and the roar was constant.
Attached Thumbnails XJ Radiator recommendations in So California-001-15-.jpg   XJ Radiator recommendations in So California-003-10-.jpg  
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Might hold off on the HD fan clutch 'til next spring or so. Hopefully, cooler weather is just around the corner and u will need a good heater. LOL

We experimented with a HD fan clutch (not the ZJ clutch) and promptly took it off......fan would not freewheel/disengage and the roar was constant.
got that on mine also with xj fan really cant hear it ac on radio rockin untill i apply heavy skinny pedal
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 05:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
plastic stronger than metal maybe what leaks is the gasket/sealent between tank and core on metal its all soldered as one pc
Old radiators have been leaking since the very 1st radiator that was ever made....regardless of what they were/are made of.....doubt that will ever change. Over the years radiator cooling efficiency/design has greatly improved and after all, that's the main function of the radiator, to cool.......if it'll hold water for a little while, then that's just icing on the cake.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:11 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by djb383
The bottom line is, just about any new rad will out-perform any old/crudded-up/missing fin rad.
Yes indeed!

In my case all of those you listed plague mine! I'm truely surprised it doesn't leak!
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
It was actually caused by a faulty 3 row radiator
I like how it took you several hours to come up with that 'clever' re-write of your original post.
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