Jeeper cam

Is any one aware of an affordable fuel sending unit for 96 cherokee with a 4.0?

Basslicks

That sounds more like a wrist pin than it does anything to do with your head.

PoodleHeadMikey

I know this is an old thread - but it is likely a common problem.

What you can do it to clean the area with rust a holes really well with a wire brush. On an angle grinder and it will be especially easy - but you can do it by hand too. Then wipe the area duct-free with solvent and a rag. Then use epoxy and some cloth to cover the area well. Paint on a layer of epoxy, press the cloth into the epoxy and then poke at it until the epoxy soaks through. (The color of the cloth will change when it's 'wet' with epoxy). Add more epoxy if you have to.

I often use generic five-minute epoxy and a clean shop rag. But anything providing a matrix for the epoxy will work. I just did this with my sailing dinghy to repair a hole and used an orphan sock from my laundry room

The Classic Cloth would of course be fiberglass - but you can use whatever you have. I like cottons because they wet-out easier.

After the epoxy sets you can sand (grind) off any points or rough spots and paint it top and bottom. It will never rust in that spot again.

A really great epoxy is called Gluvit. I built an entire 1963 Alfa Romeo chassis out of Gluvit and canvas tarps one time. . The car end up sold to a museum and I always wondered what the restore-shop guys thought when they found the car was half Gluvit?

PHM
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PoodleHeadMikey

Try letting the engine run while you remove each spark plug wire sequentially - only one off at a time. See if you can make the noise stop by this method. If the noise stops with one of the wires off - that is the cylinder with the issue.

In the video it sounds like lifter-noise to me: a defective hydraulic valve lifter.

I don't know you and I don't want you to do anything to get hurt. But if I was there doing this work I would run the engine as you have - with the rocker cover off - and while the engine is running try pressing down on one end of each rocker arm in sequence - one at a time. You can use a small piece of wood - like a 12" length of furring strip or something. And by this method see if you can reduce, eliminate, or at least alter the sound. This as a way of isolating the noise to a specific area.

It doesn't sound, to me, like a connecting rod bearing knock. Although 'maybe' a wrist pin bushing gone bad - but that would be so rare and something about the 'speed' of the noise makes it seem unlikely to me.

PHM
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rcguymike

As long as it's not airtex I hear...lol

2 quick probably dumb questions: Does the IAC get used for idle control at speed? i.e. coasting downhill @50mph?

If so, if it wasn't working quite right could that cause the engine to go in and out of the mode where it shuts off the fuel injectors?

Cane

the 96 was an oddball year and it's the only year to have that design of pump (the pressure regulator is inside the tank, not at the fuel rail like the 95 and older, and also not the same as the 97+

i think i read a thread somewhere and the guy basically dismantled his pump and replaced only the faulty part, reassembled and he was good to go. i'll try to find it because i have a 96 too and it's probably one of my next issue

1991Jeep_Man

Can't wait to verify oil this afternoon. Tired of hearing this spun bearing business lol.

Basslicks

Dude... stop listening to whoever told you that. Unless it was bad when you parked it (you would have known if it was), it's not going to be bad now. I'd almost guarantee it's a bad sending unit. Electronics components CAN go bad after sitting for a period of time due to moisture and environment - especially if outdoors. Sealed INTERNAL bearings inside a motor, not so much.

salad

The IAC is used if the PCM determines that fuel & air is required to maintain idle. Coasting downhill at 50 MPH should still have the torque converter locked and gear engaged so the engine will be spinning above idle with no fuel required. The PCM will enter decel mode and cut the fuel injectors. In decel mode the O2s are ignored so fuel/air mix is not calculated.

Negative, there's no feedback from the IAC. That issue is typically a TPS problem.

Zero oil pressure is pretty obvious with mechanical noise. It means there's no oil flow. It's good to go through the troubleshooting steps, but you're worrying way too much about this.

1991Jeep_Man

I have an illness. Literally have some Heet in the tank with fresh gas and the oil drained. Cold and dark. The mechanical gauge is hooked up. Only problem? The new filter is in wife's car! Uggggggh!

rcguymike

Got a list of non-TPS problems it could be? I've replaced it with a new one and done all the multimeter tests, etc(I think you were helping me with this last year...lol). I got my MAP issues fixed and the cracked exhaust manifold fixed but it still "snores". When I watch it on my OBDII reader it goes into the 0 fuel mode momentarily and then jumps right back out with a small surge in RPMS then slowly goes back down eventually back to 0 fuel mode and repeats. Once I get to lower speeds sometimes it feels like it's pushing/overfueling but most of the time it's fine.

Basslicks

Dude... you're havin' a day!

salad

A list? Hmm not really, maybe the brake switch? Poor connector is always a potential.

1991Jeep_Man

Well, of course ya'll were right. Fresh oil, new filter, some Heet in the gas with fresh gas... started right up on the first go, sounded as good as the day she went down! Such a relief!

Basslicks

Ah see there? Ya nervous nelly. Glad she's runnin' well, brother.