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04-23-2014, 09:31 AM

#42151

coreyhoward88

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Model: Cherokee

Thank y'all. Not a mechanic by any means! As y'all know cause I had to ask! Thank you. I think I can pull this off. Lol.

04-23-2014, 09:38 AM

#42152

EZEARL

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Year: '96

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Just in case.

04-23-2014, 10:16 AM

#42153

Ferrel

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Year: 1993

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L

helpful?

Quote:

Originally Posted by BOOMroasted

this is an easy one (or two).. having trouble finding a definite answer

I'm replacing the brake calipers today. I'm not doing anything to the rear brakes but do I still have to bleed at all four ends to get any air out that might get into the system? Any tips to make this is unfrustrating as possible?

Also.. I replaced my pads and rotors less than 1000 miles ago, which is when I realized one of my calipers was on its way out, and I decided to go with the stainless steel piston over the plastic/composite ones that are on my jeep now. Are brake pads interchangeable with these two types of calipers? It looks like the hole in the piston is a lot larger on the stainless one. I don't want to get started and then be stuck without a way to get to the parts store.

I don't have a definite answer on the caliper thing, but working in a parts store I do know it's common for jeeps to have different calipers and different pads to go with those calipers. Call a parts house. Autozone is usually pretty good... sorry if you've got a bad one or not at all

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwilly

on start up it clunks, shut it off clunks multiple times, if coasting around a curve and hit throttle coming out it thunks, if idling in park or neutral and touch the throttle it clunks, all coming from rear lower motor area.

Check and make sure your drive shaft isn't hitting the exhaust.... weird but possible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole

how the hell do you guys get a tire on your roof on a lifted jeep?

Work out and just toss it on up there cowboy!

04-23-2014, 10:22 AM

#42154

SteveMongr

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Year: 2000 WJ

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dwilly

This could be bad motor/transmission mounts which causes the exhaust to knock and clunk where it passes over the crossmember. The clearances are tight through there.

04-23-2014, 11:07 AM

#42155

dwilly

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Year: 1997

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveMongr

This could be bad motor/transmission mounts which causes the exhaust to knock and clunk where it passes over the crossmember. The clearances are tight through there.

motor and trans mounts are good. had a shop listen, he got under it and said its coming from the flywheel/ torque converter area. im checking into itthis weekend. i will check for the exhaust too. thanks for the help. it sounds pretty bad right now.

04-23-2014, 11:10 AM

#42156

SteveMongr

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dwilly

OK, have you removed the inspection plates from the bellhousing and looked at the flexplate? Checked the torque on the bolts?

04-23-2014, 11:17 AM

#42157

dwilly

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveMongr

OK, have you removed the inspection plates from the bellhousing and looked at the flexplate? Checked the torque on the bolts?

i havent got to check anything yet bc of work. whats the chances of it being the flexplate tho?

04-23-2014, 11:29 AM

#42158

SteveMongr

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dwilly

i havent got to check anything yet bc of work. whats the chances of it being the flexplate tho?

Hard to say, the AW4 and its t.converter are tough.
The flexplate bolts can loosen and cause a rattle.
The exhaust knocks I mentioned come from the same area that the mechanic is suspecting.

04-23-2014, 11:38 AM

#42159

dwilly

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveMongr

Hard to say, the AW4 and its t.converter are tough.
The flexplate bolts can loosen and cause a rattle.
The exhaust knocks I mentioned come from the same area that the mechanic is suspecting.

well now i know what to look for. the mechanic was wanting to drop my trans right then. probably just wanting to make some money. i really appreciate the help

04-23-2014, 11:47 AM

#42160

SteveMongr

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dwilly

well now i know what to look for. the mechanic was wanting to drop my trans right then. probably just wanting to make some money. i really appreciate the help

Almost the entire flexplate can be inspected by removing the inspection covers. Use a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer to rotate flexplate.
It's time to poke Your head around. Noggin Pokin.

04-23-2014, 11:49 AM

#42161

DESERTXJ206

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Cheapest place to get 3" lift coils?

04-23-2014, 11:51 AM

#42162

dwilly

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveMongr

Almost the entire flexplate can be inspected by removing the inspection covers. Use a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer to rotate flexplate.
It's time to poke Your head around. Noggin Pokin.

hopefully ill get to check this weekend.

04-23-2014, 11:56 AM

#42163

SteveMongr

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[QUOTE=DESERTXJ206;2840084]Cheapest place to get 3" lift coils?[QUOTE]

http://seriousoffroadproducts.com/
forum vendor and good shipping costs.

04-23-2014, 06:52 PM

#42164

ThatPurpleXJ

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Looking to go 1-ton OTK steering soon and double shear track bar. I'm pretty set on the IRO tbar and JCR steering or are there any others you'd recommend? Also is it wise to relocate the tbar mount to above the axle for it to be more parallel to the drag link?