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Old 05-18-2010, 09:29 AM
  #286  
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grazie per le pronta risposta !!!
I am still wondering how the gearbox can be overfilled if you have to use the same filler hole to do it.... Thought last night maybe was filled before the lift by PO and with the lift, fluid got pushed on the front past the filler hole...

Overfiller with fluid could it be bad for the transmission ? I can ear some kind of clicking, ticking that is not regular and that seem to come from the box ?
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:47 AM
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Under what conditions does the clunking/ticking happen? I wouldn't think it would hurt anything to run a gear box overfilled unless its automatic, but yours isn't. So I don't see what it could have done.
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:53 AM
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Well yes it is manual....
I have noticed the noise, mostly after the jeep is warmed up and on neutral on the driveway. I don;t really hear it while driving ...

At first it sounded like a clunking and I thought it was a exhaust pipe banging something but everything looks in place. Then I was worried that it was some kind of knock, but it is really not regular and seem to come more from the transmission than the engine, so I am looking at other options .... (I have no mechanical experience, I am trying to learn and this particular thread is awesome.... no judgment I love it)
I have noticed that the engine mounts might need to be changed. The bushing on the passenger side mount is falling apart. Could this increase vibrations and make something rub/bang ?
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Steph74
grazie per le pronta risposta !!!
I am still wondering how the gearbox can be overfilled if you have to use the same filler hole to do it.... Thought last night maybe was filled before the lift by PO and with the lift, fluid got pushed on the front past the filler hole...

Overfiller with fluid could it be bad for the transmission ? I can ear some kind of clicking, ticking that is not regular and that seem to come from the box ?
Many shops use a manual pump and it won't leak until you remove the nozzle, at that point they just screw on the plug.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by fantic238
If the gauges don't work then it has nothing to do with the CPS. At this point it could be: neutral safety switch; try to start in N.
Ignition switch; giggle with the key and check the antenna cable of the immobilizer, switch connector etc.
Batt + latch relay; swap with another relay.

The gauges do work if I unplug the CPS. The fuel pump works too. If it is something other than the CPS, wouldn't the gauges still not work when I unplug the CPS and turn the key to the ignition position? The truck will crank, it just wont start.

On a side note: I used to be able to unplug the CPS when the truck would not start. I would let it sit for a few min, plug it back up and the truck would start.


Im not sure if that helps...

Last edited by BrianV; 05-18-2010 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:34 AM
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Steph the motor mounts are only $14 per side at pepboys auto, but you can get the better brand for the same price at checkers cause theyprice match!!!
Just picked some up yesterday!
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:38 AM
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cool because we don;t have a pepboy up here thxs
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Steph74
Well yes it is manual....
I have noticed the noise, mostly after the jeep is warmed up and on neutral on the driveway. I don;t really hear it while driving ...

At first it sounded like a clunking and I thought it was a exhaust pipe banging something but everything looks in place. Then I was worried that it was some kind of knock, but it is really not regular and seem to come more from the transmission than the engine, so I am looking at other options .... (I have no mechanical experience, I am trying to learn and this particular thread is awesome.... no judgment I love it)
I have noticed that the engine mounts might need to be changed. The bushing on the passenger side mount is falling apart. Could this increase vibrations and make something rub/bang ?
Bad motor mounts could most definitely cause that. But you stated it usually only happens when in neutral on the highway, which would mean no engine load. I don't see it causing any clunking unless under load, so you may still have a problem here. The peugot transmission is not a very strong transmission at all, so that may be the problem also. There is a transmission mount on the crossmember, I would check to see if that's bad too.
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:00 AM
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All right, I will check all these things....

I know that the Peugeot transmission has bad rep.... but if it is original to my vehicle (no idea really)... then it has 200K miles..... that doesn;t sound to bad to me, but I am by no mean an expert (and certainly not wanting to start a discussion on the matter lol)
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:18 AM
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lol I've heard of a guy that rebuilt his ba 10/5 3 times while still stock height, tires etc. before he finally swapped an ax-15 in. (not trying to start a discussion either, just saying this tranny has no ***** when it comes to guts )
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:43 PM
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i changed cps and camshaft position sensor and the code reader gave me codes to the effect of coil pack "C" is bad is there any thing that could only cause random missfires on coil pack "c"?
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:26 PM
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Default Addtl Horn

What I want to to is add an extra horn that would be operated independant of the stock horn. I am thinking I can do this w/ a 3-way toggle switch w/ two on positions. My idea is that in the Off position just the stock horn would work. In top position only the second horn would work but by still using the horn button on the sterring wheel. In the bottom position both horns would work at same time. What I need is a simple wiring diagram of how to do this and where I should put a fuse. Thanks in advance.

Last edited by geeknik; 05-18-2010 at 09:39 PM. Reason: mispelled thanks
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BrianV
The gauges do work if I unplug the CPS. The fuel pump works too. If it is something other than the CPS, wouldn't the gauges still not work when I unplug the CPS and turn the key to the ignition position? The truck will crank, it just wont start.

On a side note: I used to be able to unplug the CPS when the truck would not start. I would let it sit for a few min, plug it back up and the truck would start.


Im not sure if that helps...

I replaced the CPS and the truck fired right up. Just so anyone looking will know, I got an after market CPS for about $80 from an auto parts store. It was made by Borg Warner. The dealers were telling me the after market ones would not work... they wanted $180

Greedy dealers.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:51 PM
  #299  
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Hi, I just changed out my exhaust manifold. Put everything back together just like I pulled it apart. Got everything ready to start. When I start the engine the the engine revs all the way into the red. I shut it off. Pulled the boot off the throttle body to see if butterfly valve was stuck or something. Checked the throttle cables. Checked all my wiring harnesses on my sensors. Anybody have any ideas what's going on? Possibly TPS?
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by KevMez
Hi, I just changed out my exhaust manifold. Put everything back together just like I pulled it apart. Got everything ready to start. When I start the engine the the engine revs all the way into the red. I shut it off. Pulled the boot off the throttle body to see if butterfly valve was stuck or something. Checked the throttle cables. Checked all my wiring harnesses on my sensors. Anybody have any ideas what's going on? Possibly TPS?
Is it possible you didn't bolt the intake manifold up all the way? Did you replace the intake/exhaust manifold gasket?

Last edited by offroadnut36; 05-20-2010 at 07:56 AM.
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