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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 12:48 PM
  #25936  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Are you saying all XJ/MJ/YJ/TJ D30 shafts are interchangeable, or are you saying 95+ are interchangeable and can also be used in pre-95s?
They're all physically interchangeable, 95+ just has the bigger U-joints. Sorry for the awkward wording. I'm guessing nobody wants to use older 80s shafts with vacuum disco and 260x joints if they can help it.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #25937  
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Originally Posted by salad

They're all physically interchangeable, 95+ just has the bigger U-joints. Sorry for the awkward wording. I'm guessing nobody wants to use older 80s shafts with vacuum disco and 260x joints if they can help it.
Got it. Thanks for the clarification.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #25938  
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Originally Posted by salad

Oh it will... and everything else too
I'm gonna paint them anyway
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 04:51 PM
  #25939  
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Originally Posted by hick92

I'm gonna paint them anyway
Don't put nail polish remover on your paint, it's dyed acetone. I thought you meant the goo wa on the emblems.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #25940  
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Originally Posted by bhennessee1

Don't put nail polish remover on your paint, it's dyed acetone. I thought you meant the goo wa on the emblems.
OK
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #25941  
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From: MO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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I have a question about the CCV elbows on top of the valve cover.

I am replacing my VC gasket and the grommets for the elbows in question. I picked up new elbows and grommets at the dealership, but my front elbow appears to be a different part number.

On my 1999 4.0L, the front elbow is PN# 53030991 (BLK), and the rear elbow is PN# 53030497 (BLK) and also states PN# 53030495 (GRY) on the side.

I did not know enough when I went to the dealership and they gave me PN# 53030497 (BLK) (NO ORIFICE) for the front and PN# 53030495 (GRY) (WITH ORIFICE)for the rear.

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The 0991 (BLK) has a shorter side on its elbow and looks like this:

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Q1: Should I go find PN# 53030991 (BLK) for the front or is the PN# 53030974 (no orifice) going to work in the front?

Last edited by MirageMobile; Mar 10, 2013 at 06:44 PM.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #25942  
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From: Manhattan, Kansas
Year: 1997
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Ok guys, so I'm in need of a new radiator to replace my CSF 2 Row Aluminum one. Radiator barn refuses to honor my warranty, so i'm just gonna have to eat the cost.

i decided after this that I want to get one made of the copper/brass, and I was going to stick to the csf because it worked well for the time it lasted, but i'm having trouble finding a part number.. the one in csf's catalog is (according to the other places i'm looking) for the 98-01, with the transmission cooling lines on the pass. side.

I need the radiator this week, so i'm looking to find one that's in stock. Anybody have any ideas? I'm also willing to look into other brands, but i want a 2 or 3 row that will perform well, and i want the brass/copper material.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #25943  
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Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Is there a way to replace the transmission lines from the hard lines to the soft line fittings up front near the radiator? Mine are slowly leaking at those fittings.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #25944  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Is there a way to replace the transmission lines from the hard lines to the soft line fittings up front near the radiator? Mine are slowly leaking at those fittings.
we did it with some rubber hose and some small hose clamps.. but i wouldnt recommend you do it that way.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #25945  
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb

we did it with some rubber hose and some small hose clamps.. but i wouldnt recommend you do it that way.
That's how I've seen coolers added. Cut the hard line with a Dremel and them clamp on a hose the the other end is a barb. Just didn't know if there was a better way.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #25946  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
That's how I've seen coolers added. Cut the hard line with a Dremel and them clamp on a hose the the other end is a barb. Just didn't know if there was a better way.
I would want some kind of raise of some sort to help keep the hose from slipping off. We just broke the hardlines off and connected it on.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #25947  
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb
I would want some kind of raise of some sort to help keep the hose from slipping off. We just broke the hardlines off and connected it on.
i replaced my hard lines because my ucas were hitting and pinching them, i just did two hose clamps, turned opposite ways to hold them onto the hard lines that you leave there.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #25948  
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If I cut the hard lines off now, now fluid will run out other than what's right there will it? Like that won't drain the tranny right?
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #25949  
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From: southern nj
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I have a small exhaust leak in the pipe in front of the cat, there's a small crack where the hanger meets the pipe just enough to leak, my friend says there's some type of patch I could use?
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #25950  
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Originally Posted by nygiants
I have a small exhaust leak in the pipe in front of the cat, there's a small crack where the hanger meets the pipe just enough to leak, my friend says there's some type of patch I could use?
You can get it at auto zone its by the flexpipe and exhaust tips



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