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Old 10-26-2010, 07:06 AM
  #1816  
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Originally Posted by Uhrinator
Ok so I have looked around the site a bit and couldn't find much on abs brake problems. So, I have just recently bought a 1989 XJ Limited with power and anti lock breaks. The abs light is on and my breaks hardly work at all. So i replaced the abs pump. No difference. So now im wondering if it is a booster problem because I get no pressure in the pedal when the engine is off. Any ideas on how to fix it? I have looked into new master cylinders, but i dont really want to spend $450 for it if it is an easier fix. What do you think? Thanks again!
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Before you drop a ton of cash, go over every inch of brake line and make sure there are no leaks. Then, COMPLETELY bleed the entire brake system (gravity bleed or brake fluid pump AKA brake flush machine), including the ABS motor. Some of these systems are a royal pain in the a$$ to get all the air out. If the pedal still drops, then replace the booster...
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by D_Conrad
sorry should have been more clear. the shackles give 2 inches of lift, could i add a 1" block too?
You could but from many people on this site's experience, blocks are both dangerous and provide a much poorer ride than stock. Look into an add-a-leaf if you want to even the lift out.
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:12 AM
  #1818  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
any body done one yet
How do you plan on "upgrading" the blower motor? Are you just talking about replacing it? Here is a guide to replace the motor:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...ower_Motor.htm

If the fan only works on off/high (no speeds in between), you have a bad resistor pack, not a bad blower motor.
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
How do you plan on "upgrading" the blower motor? Are you just talking about replacing it? Here is a guide to replace the motor:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...ower_Motor.htm

If the fan only works on off/high (no speeds in between), you have a bad resistor pack, not a bad blower motor.
my blower morks fine all speeds just want more volume like another speed wise fromthe factort they never blew well
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:30 AM
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there aren't any upgrade options for the blower motor. It's likely that the fan has slowed down / become clogged with age, and simply needs to be replaced. I'm sure you will see a large improvement by just replacing the fan assembly with a new OEM one.
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:55 AM
  #1821  
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done it didnt make a difference
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:56 AM
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come on guys think hard gotta be some thing out there
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:02 AM
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there isn't any way to upgrade the fan for more volume, the passageways would need to get bigger as well, and the fan would need to get bigger. There is no way to effectively do this. It's a principle of fluid/flow dynamics - a faster speed just leads to more turbulence, not more air flow volume. You would need bigger air duct and a larger fan diameter to move more air. The air passageways in our jeeps is not exactly smooth and with nice bends either - which is the primary cause of our air flow problems.
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:07 AM
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another thought - since you replaced the blower already, you didn't happen to reverse the wiring connection did you? It's easy to do and would cause a low air volume condition. Try rotating the plug 180* and see if it fixes the problem. You wouldn't be the first that has had that happen
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by damageincracing
Before you drop a ton of cash, go over every inch of brake line and make sure there are no leaks. Then, COMPLETELY bleed the entire brake system (gravity bleed or brake fluid pump AKA brake flush machine), including the ABS motor. Some of these systems are a royal pain in the a$$ to get all the air out. If the pedal still drops, then replace the booster...
b rake booster test with xj not running the pedal should be hard as arock like the old manual brakes with pressure still applied start xj pedal should go down but not to floor
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
another thought - since you replaced the blower already, you didn't happen to reverse the wiring connection did you? It's easy to do and would cause a low air volume condition. Try rotating the plug 180* and see if it fixes the problem. You wouldn't be the first that has had that happen
nope its been that way since i bought it 15 years ago every bod i now with one blows the same i know they make different squireel cage configurations i might have to look into that like changing the pitch of aceling fan blade or helicopter blades
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:58 AM
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So I changed my oil the otherday. well prolly like 3 weeks ago, I only put 5 qts in it and low and behold it needs .7 quarts low. And now my oil pressure is high. Around 60-70. And now there is a lil knock towards the back of the engine. What could it be?
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Old 10-26-2010, 11:59 AM
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I meant it needs .7 more oil. And I added it and the pressure is still high.
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeep95
So I changed my oil the otherday. well prolly like 3 weeks ago, I only put 5 qts in it and low and behold it needs .7 quarts low. And now my oil pressure is high. Around 60-70. And now there is a lil knock towards the back of the engine. What could it be?
Oil capacity is dead on - the 4.0 requires 6 quarts of oil when bone dry.

Oil pressure is typical. Mine usually hovers around 60-70 when cold and when under load, drops to about 20-30 at stop lights (when warmed up).

Knock is probably lifter tap - also typical on these engines, especially when cold.
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TruckD
Ok, so lately i have noticed that sometimes my (auto transmission) jeep acts as if it is not completely "engaged" in drive. The only way i know to describe it is like this; from a complete stop, when i hit the gas the engine will rev like i am in neutral but not accelerate. After a second or two it will click/thump (like it just went into drive) and then it will drive normal. What is this?
check the fluid level with it hot. It is either low or you have a clogged tranny filter and need to replace it. This is something you should do every 12 months at least.
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