Wont Fire on first try.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Wont Fire on first try.
Buddy has a 01 Cherokee Sport, 4.0, It will never fire on the first try but always on the second try. Turn the key to crank it and it tries to fire but never does. But as soon as you release it and crank it again it fires right up. No codes are thrown either. Just did a tune up and replaced the battery.
My buddy has plenty of auto knowledge this is stumping him though.
My buddy has plenty of auto knowledge this is stumping him though.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Fuel Pressure Regulator!
The check valve is located on top of the gas tank and is part of the fuel pump assembly on 95.5-2001 vintage 4.0 XJs. When the check valve starts to fail, it reduces fuel pressure to a point where an extended crank is needed to start the engine. It is a very common failure. I experienced it on my 99 at around 75K.
A good (and simple) way to troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”
1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for a couple of seconds
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above a two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over
If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have the check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the bleed down and the stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.
Also be aware that a bad battery can give you this symptom. Sounds strange but it definitely does happen. Have battery load tested if you have any questions; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.
Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times:
Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail
Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)
Shut engine off.
Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.
If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve within the
fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult gauge manual for more information on this but here is basically how it works:
*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.
*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - possibly the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.
You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you wish as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going bad. Normally, the check valve is replaced as an entire assembly as you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, regulator, check valve, filter. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style unit. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies don’t hold up and fail prematurely.
A good (and simple) way to troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”
1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for a couple of seconds
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above a two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over
If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have the check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the bleed down and the stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.
Also be aware that a bad battery can give you this symptom. Sounds strange but it definitely does happen. Have battery load tested if you have any questions; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.
Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times:
Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail
Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)
Shut engine off.
Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.
If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve within the
fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult gauge manual for more information on this but here is basically how it works:
*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.
*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - possibly the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.
You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you wish as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going bad. Normally, the check valve is replaced as an entire assembly as you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, regulator, check valve, filter. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style unit. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies don’t hold up and fail prematurely.
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 242
Likes: 1
From: Portersville, Pennsylvania
Year: 1997 & 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the exact same issue with my '98. I went through the same confusion especially after looking at all of the possible reasons. I just ordered an inline replacement check valve which was recommended from a board member in a past thread. It's made by SUR&R Auto Parts and the item # is SRRCKV5. It's readily available from various places online, but I found the best price with the lowest shipping cost from ToolTopia.com
The installation for this is very simple. You cut the fuel line at a convenient location, remove a small piece, and install the valve. This corrects a defective check valve and is much easier and cheaper than dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump assembly, which is where the check valve is located. It won't interfere with the normal operation of the fuel pump.
There may still be a problem with leaking injectors, but I'm not concerned as my XJ has over 200,000 miles on it and if I still need to replace injectors, so be it. Odds are that the check valve will solve the issue and if it doesn't, you still addressed a common problem area for under $40.
By the by, I found excellent prices on replacement injectors at fuelinjectorconnection.com. I replaced the ones in the wife's '97 with Bosch ones for under $150/set shipped. At the time, they were $129/set + shipping, but now the price went up to $139. It's still a great price and the Bosch injectors work very well. Her car has gobs of power and gets decent mileage since. It's a shame that I can't get the price point or the same exact parts through my shop, but that's the auto parts gig, I guess.
The installation for this is very simple. You cut the fuel line at a convenient location, remove a small piece, and install the valve. This corrects a defective check valve and is much easier and cheaper than dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump assembly, which is where the check valve is located. It won't interfere with the normal operation of the fuel pump.
There may still be a problem with leaking injectors, but I'm not concerned as my XJ has over 200,000 miles on it and if I still need to replace injectors, so be it. Odds are that the check valve will solve the issue and if it doesn't, you still addressed a common problem area for under $40.
By the by, I found excellent prices on replacement injectors at fuelinjectorconnection.com. I replaced the ones in the wife's '97 with Bosch ones for under $150/set shipped. At the time, they were $129/set + shipping, but now the price went up to $139. It's still a great price and the Bosch injectors work very well. Her car has gobs of power and gets decent mileage since. It's a shame that I can't get the price point or the same exact parts through my shop, but that's the auto parts gig, I guess.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
I'll have to look into that. The injectors are fine from what I can see. No leaking or anything and they all Ohm correctly. But yeah it has over 200k as well so just looking to milk it until he gets another vehicle. Thanks for the info.
And I talked to my other buddy who is a Manager at Napa Auto.They carry the check valve part, but its about $10 more expensive then that tooltopia site.
And I talked to my other buddy who is a Manager at Napa Auto.They carry the check valve part, but its about $10 more expensive then that tooltopia site.
Last edited by BoostedRegal; Oct 1, 2012 at 09:51 AM.
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Ha! Mystery solved. 
My new XJ does this, as well. Since it always starts, I hadn't worried much about it, but it's good to know there's a fix.
If I decided to drop the tank and fix it the "right" way, what would I need to replace? The entire fuel pump assembly, or is the check valve a separate part?
My new XJ does this, as well. Since it always starts, I hadn't worried much about it, but it's good to know there's a fix.If I decided to drop the tank and fix it the "right" way, what would I need to replace? The entire fuel pump assembly, or is the check valve a separate part?
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