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Winter prep checklist?

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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 11:40 AM
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Default Winter prep checklist?

This'll be my first winter with my 99 4wd Sport. Prior maintenance unknown, never owned a 4wd, and last year's records were 20 below temps with a TON of snow.
So far I've done drive belt, plugs/wires/dist cap/rotor, injectors, vc and oil pan gasket, new radiator cap, and 3 tranny fluid drains.
Wildcard: Still suffering low oil pressure- goes to 0 at stops after 20 mins of driving but back to 20ish when driving with no noise...verified with mechanical gauge...not to 0, but below 13)
Running Rotella 15-30(40?) and a Mopar filter

Given that info, what would you recommend I also do/check before winter arrives? Anything special to "check" 4wd operation? Forgive me-new to it and not even sure how to trst it out in the concrete jungle I live in. PO tore it around in the dirt/rubble/grass behind his shop to assure me it was in order. But just in case...
Any input appreciated and thanks in advance
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 12:56 PM
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Fellow Ohioan here. It was crazy last year, eh?

I'm going to try and replace my battery before it gets bad out. Ive no idea how old it is and it already gets drawn down too easily for my tastes.

Hopefully Wrangler Radials dont do too poorly in the snow... Living on a hill is great until winter.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RegularGuy
Fellow Ohioan here. It was crazy last year, eh?

I'm going to try and replace my battery before it gets bad out. Ive no idea how old it is and it already gets drawn down too easily for my tastes.

Hopefully Wrangler Radials dont do too poorly in the snow... Living on a hill is great until winter.




RIGHT?! Good point - reminds me that my battery is more jiggly than ought to be and needs to be secured tighter
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 02:31 PM
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Check your transfer case for fluid. Typically people fill it with D/M3 because you will have some left over from the AW4 trans. Also check all your u joints in your drive line and brake pads / rotors.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 08:18 PM
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Change transfer case fluid (Dex 3), and Differential Fluid front and back, as these components take a good beating in the snow, and typically are not maintained as religiously as oil changes and what not.

Check brake fluid, and inspect brake lines for corrosion/rust

Power steering fluid check/exhange. If fluid needs replacing, suck out with a turkey baster, and pour new fluid in. DO NOT PUT TURKEY BASTER BACK IN FOOD DRAWER lol

and everything else that the other said/will say
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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If you have any rust, try and get that patched or, chassis saver and painted before winter so it won't become worse
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandonrcm
If you have any rust, try and get that patched or, chassis saver and painted before winter so it won't become worse
yeah..... ill just have to wash mine more often. im not going to get this stuff fixed this year : /

maybe all new floorpans in the spring though

Im trying to get my hitch put on and find a set of tow hooks before the snow hits.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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Thanks all. This list ought to keep me bus and out of trouble til winter haha.
Tfer case: is that like tranny fluid check, meaning if my first drain is all nasty should I drain/refill more than once or does it not really matter?
And with the rust advice: xj lived in Michigan its first 15 years and the underside shows it. I understand there's the inhibitor product that can be used underneath, but I also heard that you could get underside sprayed down with oil for winter? Is that right? And if so, can it be a DIY thing?
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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...ooh. Now that you mention PS fluid, I do have a leak although, oddly, my PS level is always ok. Taking care of the box keeps getting pushed down on my list because of the trouble I anticipate getting everything off that needs to come out of the way for the project. (Although my Kroil came in the mail last week and I'm anxious to see if it works). Prob should suck it up and do it (and just plan to call in sick a couple days haha).
And separate basters...got it!
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ye Ol' Cherokee
Change transfer case fluid (Dex 3), and Differential Fluid front and back, as these components take a good beating in the snow, and typically are not maintained as religiously as oil changes and what not.

Check brake fluid, and inspect brake lines for corrosion/rust

Power steering fluid check/exhange. If fluid needs replacing, suck out with a turkey baster, and pour new fluid in. DO NOT PUT TURKEY BASTER BACK IN FOOD DRAWER lol

and everything else that the other said/will say
Do all of these for sure as they are often neglected.

You did not say if you had flushed the radiator/cooling system/heater core and replaced with new antifreeze, thermostat, thermostat housing, usually new hoses are needed also U & L Radiator Hose and heater.

A straight 30w oil may give you a bit more oil pressure than a multi-viscosity oil would, I run a straight 30w in mine year around.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
Do all of these for sure as they are often neglected.

You did not say if you had flushed the radiator/cooling system/heater core and replaced with new antifreeze, thermostat, thermostat housing, usually new hoses are needed also U & L Radiator Hose and heater.

A straight 30w oil may give you a bit more oil pressure than a multi-viscosity oil would, I run a straight 30w in mine year around.
I have not flushed heating/cooling. Read a lot about the system, but never attempted to mess with it (fear of the unknown + no manifestation of probs haha). But, my U radiator hose does rest against the top edge of my battery and has a little bit of a dent from the same, so I assume it's best to change that out and figure out how to protect that spot a little better.
Thanks!
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tracyk
I have not flushed heating/cooling. Read a lot about the system, but never attempted to mess with it (fear of the unknown + no manifestation of probs haha). But, my U radiator hose does rest against the top edge of my battery and has a little bit of a dent from the same, so I assume it's best to change that out and figure out how to protect that spot a little better.
Thanks!
All of these need to be done to prep any engine for winter, if the upper hose needs to be replaced the lower usually does also.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tracyk
Tfer case: is that like tranny fluid check, meaning if my first drain is all nasty should I drain/refill more than once or does it not really matter?
I may be wrong, but from my experience, draining and filling the transfer case typically gets out the majority of the fluid that's in there, therefore the fluid exchange is mostly fresh fluid.

This is unlike the trans, in which a drain and fill will typically only replace approximately 1/4 - 1/3 of the fluid ( How much comes out is debated on here. Some swear 4 qts come out, I only get 2, as do others, so whatever)
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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For the past several years (winter), the most often post subject/thread on the forum is "my heater doesn't work"......there's a hint. Rad hose protection.....save the old hose and cut/slit a short section of the old hose to wrap around the new hose where it rubs.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandonrcm
If you have any rust, try and get that patched or, chassis saver and painted before winter so it won't become worse
X2, definitely crawl underneath and check for rust, if there is any make sure to take care of it before winter, being covered in salt/brine for several months definitely isn't going to improve things.

Last edited by dmill89; Sep 10, 2014 at 06:05 PM.
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