I just got a 96 XJ with a 5.5 RE Extream Duty Short Flex arms and it does have the Bushwacker fender flares (I do not know how much the PO trimmed fenders) and the Tires are 35x13.5x15 on Black D window rims 15x10 (unknown BS) I will find out .

I want to know what I need to do to run 35"s with no or not much rubbing at full flex. Right now it is hitting the flares and the inner wheel wells and ripping the flares loose & causing steering issues.

I will try and get some pics up & some measurements so I know more of what I have & you can point out anything I might have missed & what I need to do.

Like take flares off & maybe more trimming or wheel spacers or different BS rims Spacers on the springs & longer shackels etc.

I really do not want to mess any angles up like front or rear pinion angles or have to get an expensive alingment as this lift was professionally put on the right way. But maybe I overthinking and it is really not that big of a deal to add a few inches.

Let me know what you are running or shoot me some ideas
Thanks

 

im running a rubicon express long arm 5.5 extreme duty with 35 by 12.50. i love having the 35's. i had to do some fender trimming to fit them in there without having rubbing issues during full flex. i would say who ever did the work on the xj before didnt cut enough. right no i have no issues with rubbing even at full flex. you should take the fender flares off then cut what you need and then go from there. also the backspaceing on the rim might be a little off so you might need some spacers, but first try trimming and see where that gets you

 

i have a similar lift height and running 33's now but when they where out i will be going 35's cause the km2's are cheaper in 35 then 33's and that's crazy plus i can fit them i just need to trim the front a tad more and a little more bumpstop and i am set. its all a mater of trimming and bumpstops and they will fit and not rub to much or get chewed up

 

Are these spacers part of the RE lift or are they added for the winch & more lift .What do I measure to see what my actual lift is. It has a Mile Marker E12000 Winch on the front which may cause it to sag.

 

Dude, those fake blocks on the rear are dangerous, get something solid..

 

Loose the home made block before it breaks and you get hurt. I would go to a solid steel block not a hallow one.

 

You beet me to it yeah those are scarry looking

 

Hahaha, incredible, we had the same thoughts..

 

measure from the center of the wheel hub sock hieght is 17.5

 

wow talk about a budget 2" lift, i'd take those "alluminum looking" blocks off the rear and do shackle, and then take the block spacer off the front and run a regular coil spacer, that goes on top of your coil spring...

If the PO told you that lift was professionally installed the right way then they are Full of ****... sorry to say it but they are..... those rear blocks and that contraption up front for your coils is in no way professional.... more like backyard redneck with a shed for a shop certified

also if you decide to go taller... cut those extended lower control arm brackets off your frame and make/buy a set of long arms..... then relocate the bracket for the long arms farther back along the frame (just in front of the crossmember)

btw does that jeep have an SYE kit?

 

who the hell did that ?? talk about budget lol

 

did you really ask if its cv sure as **** not