wheel bearing sounds like it's going bad but has no play
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
wheel bearing sounds like it's going bad but has no play
when i reach highway speeds, i'd say anything above 50, i get a vibration in the front right. my passenger feels it more than i do. when i turn right, it gets worse, when i turn left, it goes away and it rides smooth again. i don't feel a vibration in the steering wheel, like the title says it feels like a bad wheel bearing.
but when i jacked up the front axle, there is no play when rocking the wheel back and forth on both sides. on the driver side the axle u-joint has a slight play and i'm also wondering if that could cause this. passenger side u-joints is solid, ball joints are also tight (tried prying from under the tire, no movement)
so i'm wondering if a wheel bearing can be on its way out without having any play in it? or does it sound more like the u-joint?
but when i jacked up the front axle, there is no play when rocking the wheel back and forth on both sides. on the driver side the axle u-joint has a slight play and i'm also wondering if that could cause this. passenger side u-joints is solid, ball joints are also tight (tried prying from under the tire, no movement)
so i'm wondering if a wheel bearing can be on its way out without having any play in it? or does it sound more like the u-joint?
Last edited by Cane; 03-30-2017 at 09:17 PM.
#2
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
u could just remove and replace the axle u-joints both sides, but might as well just do the hubs and ball joints(if questionable) then be a piece of mind at rest... But then again a jeep can always use something... Parts R cheap though!!!
#3
A wheel bearing will usually be a whir or grind, where a knuckle U joint will be a wheel-speed (comparatively slow) tick or a pop/gravely sound when turning. Unitized wheel bearings like the XJ uses won't always have slop by the time they start making noise - best bet is to jack it up and see if you can detect a noise, and if so, what kind of noise from where, while spinning the wheel by hand.
#4
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^ Spot on Alex V.
Don't rule out tires and wheels. A broken or separated belt on the inboard portion of tread could cause what you are describing, especially at those speeds.
A bad wheel bearing usually will make excessive heat. Can use an infra-red temperature gun to aid in diagnoses.
Don't rule out tires and wheels. A broken or separated belt on the inboard portion of tread could cause what you are describing, especially at those speeds.
A bad wheel bearing usually will make excessive heat. Can use an infra-red temperature gun to aid in diagnoses.
#5
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A wheel bearing will usually be a whir or grind, where a knuckle U joint will be a wheel-speed (comparatively slow) tick or a pop/gravely sound when turning. Unitized wheel bearings like the XJ uses won't always have slop by the time they start making noise - best bet is to jack it up and see if you can detect a noise, and if so, what kind of noise from where, while spinning the wheel by hand.
drove to work this morning, the sound appears between 60 and 70mph, under and over it's fine. basically the way i can best describe it is if i have a passenger, we can't hear ourselves speak because it's so loud in the front end. but no vibration can be felt through the steering wheel.
at slow speeds i don't hear or feel the loose u joint. only when going over bumps sometimes
^ Spot on Alex V.
Don't rule out tires and wheels. A broken or separated belt on the inboard portion of tread could cause what you are describing, especially at those speeds.
A bad wheel bearing usually will make excessive heat. Can use an infra-red temperature gun to aid in diagnoses.
Don't rule out tires and wheels. A broken or separated belt on the inboard portion of tread could cause what you are describing, especially at those speeds.
A bad wheel bearing usually will make excessive heat. Can use an infra-red temperature gun to aid in diagnoses.
thanks guys
#6
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
ordered new timken hubs and spicer joints, gonna replace everything but the ball joints
i always had this done by my mechanic but since he's no longer in business this is gonna be my first time. do i put anti seize on the hub bolts? axle nut? bearing surface?
i always had this done by my mechanic but since he's no longer in business this is gonna be my first time. do i put anti seize on the hub bolts? axle nut? bearing surface?
#7
That definitely sounds like the hub. I've been there before. Sounds like a roar when when you're driving. Once you get everything peeled away and get the 3 bolts through the hub out then the fun starts. If you google, you;ll find a method to put a socket on the stop bolt and then use the power steering to push out the hub by turning it all the way to the side with the stop bolt. I did not have luck with that and used a drywall mud knife to get in between the hub and steering knuckle. Once you get a little space it will start coming out. they can get seized in there pretty well. I clean up the steering knuckle and then use a lot of antiseize around the hole/mating surface. I put antizeize on the hub bolts as well. Not sure if that has helped since I have not had to take the replacement hubs out yet. I also used Timken. Have held up for 5 years or so now.
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#8
It is possible to hit the hub flange with a hammer at several points to work it out - at that point the hub is junk but that's why you're trying to get it out, anyway. An air hammer or slide hammer can also do the trick, it just depends how badly it's seized. They're a slip fit so it's possible it will come out with minimal struggle.
You'll need a big socket (36 MM or equivalent, if memory serves?) and a torque wrench with upwards if 200 ft.-lb. capability for removal and proper re-installation of the axle shaft nut.
You'll need a big socket (36 MM or equivalent, if memory serves?) and a torque wrench with upwards if 200 ft.-lb. capability for removal and proper re-installation of the axle shaft nut.
Last edited by Alex V.; 03-31-2017 at 09:43 AM. Reason: Typo
#9
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Year: 1996
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That definitely sounds like the hub. I've been there before. Sounds like a roar when when you're driving. Once you get everything peeled away and get the 3 bolts through the hub out then the fun starts. If you google, you;ll find a method to put a socket on the stop bolt and then use the power steering to push out the hub by turning it all the way to the side with the stop bolt. I did not have luck with that and used a drywall mud knife to get in between the hub and steering knuckle. Once you get a little space it will start coming out. they can get seized in there pretty well. I clean up the steering knuckle and then use a lot of antiseize around the hole/mating surface. I put antizeize on the hub bolts as well. Not sure if that has helped since I have not had to take the replacement hubs out yet. I also used Timken. Have held up for 5 years or so now.
it's the second time I'm replacing them since I have the jeep, and like I said the previous times were by my mechanic so i'm pretty sure he anti seized them and it shouldn't be too much of a problem. been about 2 years since I had them replaced.
It is possible to hit the hub flange with a hammer at several points to work it out - at that point the hub is junk but that's why you're trying to get it out, anyway. An air hammer or slide hammer can also do the trick, it just depends how badly it's seized. They're a slip fit so it's possible it will come out with minimal struggle.
You'll need a big socket (36 MM or equivalent, if memory serves?) and a torque wrench with upwards if 200 ft.-lb. capability for removal and proper re-installation of the axle shaft nut.
You'll need a big socket (36 MM or equivalent, if memory serves?) and a torque wrench with upwards if 200 ft.-lb. capability for removal and proper re-installation of the axle shaft nut.
Last edited by Cane; 03-31-2017 at 09:55 AM.