ok here it goes.. i know my front 2 wheel bearings are shot i jacked it up and you can move the tire in and out alot! (pass side worse than driver) no biggie i ordered new ones they will be here in 5 days ill drive my mustang untill. just got home from work while in the parking lot with my buddys i put it in 4 wheel drive and pulled it out and while i was turning the drivers wheel is slopppy as hell back and forth and there is a great amount of force holding the jeep back like im driveing with my foot on the breaks. note this only does this when it is in 4 hi or 4 low 2dw it rides turn fine like it should.. will the wheel bearings make this do what its doing? only thing im thinking is alot of stress on them while in 4wd or maybe something else.. throw me your minds and thoughts on this

 

Im guessing no one cares

 

You experienced "U-joint bind" when you did that with your buddy's Jeep. If you keep doing that then you're going to break his Jeep too. Don't use 4Hi or 4Lo when on solid-stable ground (i.e., pavement).

The symptom you described for your Jeep does sound like bearing play. It may also be a product of broken/missing cotter pins. Have you determined that the shaft and hub fasteners are all intact?

 

Yes, you shouldn't use 4wd on dry pavement, especially while trying to do tight turns.

In a nutshell, the transfer case locks the front and rear wheels together so that they're unable to travel at different speeds. When you're turning, they HAVE to travel at different speeds, so it'll make some bad noises, be hard to turn, and eventually kill your transfer case if you keep doing that.

As the previous poster said, it does sound like you have bearing issues. They're not real hard to swap out, but you may end up needing new bolts. When pulled mine out, the threads were stretched, and the bolts wouldn't go back in. No amount of PB Blaster or antisieze helped. I ended up breaking one trying, and had to buy new bolts from Chrysler.

 

yes i understand all that i got new hubs with new bearings installed on the way so as far as geting the bolts back i should not have a problem there ill have new bolts with my new hubs and bearings.. but here is what i learned today.. the previouse owner for some reason.. took the vacuum lines off of the diff vacuum actuator.. so i need to know where the lines are suppost to go so i can route new ones. my buddy told me they go to the transfer case and i do not see any open lines on the transfer case where they would have went any ideas?

 

If there is a lot of movement, I'd also check the ball joints in the knuckles for slop, also the ball joint on your steering system. With that much movement (from what it sounds) can put alot of unwanted stress on these other parts. Sorry, I've never dealt with the vacuum system disconnect, but I'd doubt the hoses would be directly connected to the tcase.

 

Check Ball joints while you are replacing the wheel bearings.

NO part time 4x4 system should be used on dry pavement. you will break u joints and axle shafts.

the vacuum lines do indeed go the tcase actuator. there should be nipple to put them on.

 

ok well i only drove in a little with it in the parking lot and u joints are only 15.00 a piece so tomarrow when im doing my wheel bearings ill put some duralast gold ujoints in and i know the upper ball joints have a little play so ill do them to. as far as the diff vacuum actuator im just going to do the washer mod so the 2 piece axle is always engaged because if im wheelin i dont want to get mad cause my 4wd isnt working properly. So the washer mod will work untill i get a posi lok