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whats WOT

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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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Default whats WOT

I was looking over the online manual for my 88 charekee 4.0 and i noticed (under no start conditions) something about shorted W.O.T switch in the tps But what is the w.o.t switch and where is it located? is it literrally in the TPS

also I read about a Air Stepper Motor Exerciser tool (Ele. CT01) but when i spoke to someone in chrysler they said its not for sale, is this true if so, there is no way for me to get the part?

Im tryna narrow down, this unwarned shut off and high idle upon start up problems that im having, i have ruled out the TPS, IAC, and Map sensor because all those were recently changed, I have checked for borken or loose hoses at the intake and also evap canister hoses im not the only one having these problems and for the sake of arguement i would like to try new things cause everything else doesnt seem to work (i.e adjust TPS, clean IAC hole, vacuum leak, etc...)

thanks for the help guys
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 01:29 PM
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From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by SINCITY192
I was looking over the online manual for my 88 charekee 4.0 and i noticed (under no start conditions) something about shorted W.O.T switch in the tps But what is the w.o.t switch and where is it located? is it literrally in the TPS

also I read about a Air Stepper Motor Exerciser tool (Ele. CT01) but when i spoke to someone in chrysler they said its not for sale, is this true if so, there is no way for me to get the part?

Im tryna narrow down, this unwarned shut off and high idle upon start up problems that im having, i have ruled out the TPS, IAC, and Map sensor because all those were recently changed, I have checked for borken or loose hoses at the intake and also evap canister hoses im not the only one having these problems and for the sake of arguement i would like to try new things cause everything else doesnt seem to work (i.e adjust TPS, clean IAC hole, vacuum leak, etc...)

thanks for the help guys

its part of the tps and to correct it you need a new tps
if that is your problem
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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map sensor
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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did you replace just the IAC motor and not the IAC valve
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mike37
did you replace just the IAC motor and not the IAC valve
i replaced the map sensor, (still have old one) TPS,(2 times still have original and other one brought from rock auto) the IAC, located right nest to TPS because i was told that was my problem with the high idle but all it did was stop my car from stutting off for a while. i think i brought it last summer, so whats the life expectancy on these things any how, last summers shut off problems it cured them just fine, the machanic installed my old TPS because he said the one i brought from rock auto didnt work right, something with the voltage. by the way i never saw him hook up a meter just the computer.

but the jeep ran fine until now, so i figured the TPS went on me, i tried to adjust the tps from rock auto i had sitting around, and it started with high idle so i tried to adjust with the multimeter and the input was just fine, but the output was way to high, i tried to adjust to the 4.2 range but it would only go to the 6.1 range and no lower no matter which screw i loosened.
so i installed the old one until i could get another tps.

I then brought another TPS from a kown parts store and of course he had it. i installed, and the same thing with the rock auto tps happened again,
and i mean the same thing, down to the voltage being close or nearly the same as rock auto's. but i just started the car with the tps and it sounded fine actually.

about the next day i noticed that my idle was unstable and goind up and down as if it wanted to shut off. i then brought the map sensor
and to me it really didnt start stutting off until i brought the new map sensor so what could it be?

and i noticed today that if i let the car warm up then its less likely to shut off less likely more like so far so good. but why would i have to heat up the car just so it wont shut off? Im searching and searching, so far nothing, if anyone can help me please, i would greatly appreciate it.

Sorry about the long letter, just wanted to give a clear unsterstanding of whats going on so if any one has the time to read this thanks!
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 03:20 PM
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W.O.T. - wide open throttle

sorry, didn't read the whole thread....
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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well can any body help me?
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SINCITY192
well can any body help me?
did you replace the idle control valve
not just the eclectic idle control motor
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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this may be a good read for you

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mike37
did you replace the idle control valve
not just the eclectic idle control motor
a little confused is the idle control valve the IAC because i replaced the IAC and recently i just removed it cleaned it and the hole it goes in with some TB cleaner

question what is the idle control motor? could this be my problem?
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SINCITY192
a little confused is the idle control valve the IAC because i replaced the IAC and recently i just removed it cleaned it and the hole it goes in with some TB cleaner

question what is the idle control motor? could this be my problem?
its kinda confusing

cus jeep calls the IAC motor the valve
but it not it just part of it
the second part is the part on the throttle body
its held on with 4 screws and it have the seat and ports for the IAC

so if you replace IAC and not clean up and be sure the seat for the valve is good it still wont work

it sound like in your last post that you did clean the valve seat
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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im starting to lean towards the resistor for the fuel pump wires because when it shut off on me this morning i pop the truck with intentions on wiggling everything in there but i didnt.

decided to take it step by step (since i couldnt get it to start back up)
the 2 resistor wires i have them 2gether with a button connector (running the pump direct for some time now) i twist the connecter and wires to tighten them more and tried to start it and it started so i wondering was that my problem the whole time?

it still occasionally starts with high idle when warm though but goes back down
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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try un hooking the negative battery cable and touching it to the positive
turn on the head lights for 5to 10 seconds re connect and start it up
that will clear the ecm back the original settings and it will re learn the sensors from square one
you should do the every time you fix something
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